abs asr light
#2
08-08-2007 | 04:34 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 181
From:
RE: abs asr light
Many possibilities for ASR/ABS lights illuminating then going out or temporarily going out on the 1990s years of MB cars, and probably later models, which had real sensitive electrical systems. Could be battery going bad, alternator weak, low engine idle speed, out of adjustmentaccelerator or transmissioncables, dirty air intake passages or air filter, wiring harness or connections, water shorting something somewhere, brake light bulb,third brake light bulb/device,computer modules, and the list goes on and on.
The MB forumshave many, many entries on this problem.
I have and still havechallenges with these lights, usually the stored error codesreally does point me in the right direction to find the problem. Low battery voltage at idle, first startup, for all kinds or reasons, still plagues me, but I get through it and the problem usuallygoes away for days.
Try reading your computer diagnostics error codes first. Then, check your battery and alternator, check every electrical connection you dare to touch underthe hood for good tight fitting, look for wiring harness visible damage (could also be shorting wires inside the harnesses), check your brake lights bulbs and third brakelight.
If you do not have time to do these steps, the engine on/off cycling will probably help temporarily. Let us know what you find out.
Hope this helps.
The MB forumshave many, many entries on this problem.
I have and still havechallenges with these lights, usually the stored error codesreally does point me in the right direction to find the problem. Low battery voltage at idle, first startup, for all kinds or reasons, still plagues me, but I get through it and the problem usuallygoes away for days.
Try reading your computer diagnostics error codes first. Then, check your battery and alternator, check every electrical connection you dare to touch underthe hood for good tight fitting, look for wiring harness visible damage (could also be shorting wires inside the harnesses), check your brake lights bulbs and third brakelight.
If you do not have time to do these steps, the engine on/off cycling will probably help temporarily. Let us know what you find out.
Hope this helps.
#4
08-09-2007 | 10:53 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 181
From:
RE: abs asr light
Turn off engine. Restart engine. This usually, temporarily, turns off the dash lights for ABS/ASR. Depending on if the error code represents itself, and the frequency and number of times the errorcode has tuned on these lights in a history file, determines how long before next light turn on.
#5
08-09-2007 | 08:31 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 201
RE: abs asr light
I changed my battery a month ago I just used the MB battery (stock). The battery on my 2000 E55 seemed fine, but I started getting a BAS/ESP Malfunction Indicator. I went to the dealer and my service advisor told me that the brake light switch gone bad. They replaced the swicth and sure enough my It's fix. Then the very same day my battery went dead. The battery voltage was dropping down under 10 volts at times which is the threshold for the ESP/BAS system according to the Owners Manual.
The battery isn't that expensive I paid the MB Roside Service around $ 117. The back seat cushion is easy to remove. There are two plastic levers you toggle to unclip the front edge and it comes out. The battery is under the right hand passenger's area. Make sure you get a battery that has a connection for the vent tube. The vent tube vents any hydrogen that boils off the battery under the car. It is a clear plastic tube with a 90 degree elbow at the battery end. It connects on the inboard side of the battery. This is important. There was a recall on the W202 C-Class because batteries were exploding. The battery on that car is in the trunk. Replacemnt batteries without the vent were installed and hydrogen accumulated in the trunk. When the trunk was opened the switch for the light supplied a spark. One little convenience you may not notice at first. There is a plastic cover on the rear wall of the passenger footwell. It is an access to the chassis end of the negative battery cable. Remove the cover, disconnect the cable, bend it back and clip the cover partially in place over the cable so the cable cannot touch ground while you work.
If you plan to replace it yourself you need to do the following:
You will have to synchronize the windows, seats, sunroof, key and ESP/BAS and enter the radio code when you disconnect the battery ( In my case, I have a Navi. all you do is turn in on and press "SYS" for system info. and it will resync. itself. Basically, run the windows down to the bottom and hold the switch for a few seconds. Do the same going up. Then test the express up/down features. Same with the sunroof. I can't remember exactly how to do the seats, but it is a similar process. The key should resynch a few seconds after inserting it into the switch. The BAS/ESP will reset after turning the wheel all the way left and right. The instructions are buried in various spots in the Owners Manual - you can find them with a bit of patience.[/align]
The battery isn't that expensive I paid the MB Roside Service around $ 117. The back seat cushion is easy to remove. There are two plastic levers you toggle to unclip the front edge and it comes out. The battery is under the right hand passenger's area. Make sure you get a battery that has a connection for the vent tube. The vent tube vents any hydrogen that boils off the battery under the car. It is a clear plastic tube with a 90 degree elbow at the battery end. It connects on the inboard side of the battery. This is important. There was a recall on the W202 C-Class because batteries were exploding. The battery on that car is in the trunk. Replacemnt batteries without the vent were installed and hydrogen accumulated in the trunk. When the trunk was opened the switch for the light supplied a spark. One little convenience you may not notice at first. There is a plastic cover on the rear wall of the passenger footwell. It is an access to the chassis end of the negative battery cable. Remove the cover, disconnect the cable, bend it back and clip the cover partially in place over the cable so the cable cannot touch ground while you work.
If you plan to replace it yourself you need to do the following:
You will have to synchronize the windows, seats, sunroof, key and ESP/BAS and enter the radio code when you disconnect the battery ( In my case, I have a Navi. all you do is turn in on and press "SYS" for system info. and it will resync. itself. Basically, run the windows down to the bottom and hold the switch for a few seconds. Do the same going up. Then test the express up/down features. Same with the sunroof. I can't remember exactly how to do the seats, but it is a similar process. The key should resynch a few seconds after inserting it into the switch. The BAS/ESP will reset after turning the wheel all the way left and right. The instructions are buried in various spots in the Owners Manual - you can find them with a bit of patience.[/align]
#7
08-25-2007 | 10:42 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 142
From:
RE: abs asr light
have your car checked with a star or obdII when the asr light is on, does your car go to limp home mode? if yes your ETA(electronic throttle actuator harness, as well as engine harness may need to be replaced, you can visually check this (crack on the wire insulators) usual problem on a 140 harness as well as up to the 2004 models (factory defect which MB will never admit) and don't even believe with some comment saying because they use biodegradable wires (no such thing on earth).
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