Question on replacement of steering idler bushing in 300TE
#1
Question on replacement of steering idler bushing in 300TE
Is it OK to put in the bolt from bottom up, rather than top down
in the steering idler arm assembly in a 1989 300TE.
It is difficult to remove the bolt otherwise as I had to raise
the engine on the passenger side with the engine mount disconnected
on that side.
The muffler is in the way. The only thing I can think of is if there is enough
clearance for the nut not hitting the muffler.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
in the steering idler arm assembly in a 1989 300TE.
It is difficult to remove the bolt otherwise as I had to raise
the engine on the passenger side with the engine mount disconnected
on that side.
The muffler is in the way. The only thing I can think of is if there is enough
clearance for the nut not hitting the muffler.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
#4
Engineering wise, i'm not sure there is a difference. The stress is on the bottom of the bolt no matter which way you put it on.So to me, stress on a the bolt head seems more secure than stress on a elongated lock nut. I intend to do that with mine, cut the old one out (sorry, I'm not going to tackle a 25 year old exhaust manifold bolt if I don't have to) change the bushings, install the bolt and old lock nut, mark it for a cotter pin passage, drill it, then reinstall it with new lock nut and cotter pin. There is lots of clearance on top for this...just not enough to pull the bolt out (or install one) from the top without the manifold move. (Hint: before you drill the bolt, run the old nut past the point on the bolt where you are going to drill the cotter pin hole, drill it, and then use the old nut to clean up the threads)
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