Need serious help with 2008 Mercedes E320 bluetec diesel v6
#1
Need serious help with 2008 Mercedes E320 bluetec diesel v6
Hi,
The car suddenly started to not accelerate and hesitate. Won't go over 40mph and uphills it is terrible.
I read the OBD II codes Photos attached) and multiple codes came up including O2 Sensor bank 1, sensor 2. So I replaced it for $95, a bosch brand.
Car still hesitated and same issue occurred.
So further, I read all about the MAF Sensors. I disconnected them and car ran without jittering but still in slow safe (limp) mode. When I connected them back the car would jitter and hesitate but still in limp mode.
I figured the car does have 129K miles so why not change the MAF sensors so i ended up just buying the whole top air intake portion with MAF Sensors already in them. I did not want t take a risk with used ones from ebay for half the cost pretty much. So replacing MAF Sensors I go for a drive and red battery symbol comes up and steering wheel becomes as if I am bodybuilding in the gym, lol. I managed to get the car back home, but weight lifted the entire way, almost like a Flinstones car (hehe)
SO then I did a voltmeter test on the battery in the trunk and it showed 12.0V on car off and 11.7V on car on and it kept dropping. Steering stayed hard.
Then I took the big car battery inside the trunk to autozone for testing which showed battery is perfectly fine.
Then I get home thinking its the alternator. When I removed everything to get to the alternator, I saw the engine (serpentine) belt slipped off and worn out, but did not break in half.
So then I knew alternator is probably fine.
I run to Autozone and get a continental poly v (serpentine)(engine) belt to replace it. Then I test the load on the battery and wallah, right away 13.8V, but battery was 50% so I knew just has to charge up.
So I am back to square one.
Car has power steering and all works, I forgot to mention when the car does pickup I hear this air suction/hissing sound but then goes away. Wondering if it's the TurboCharger and if it is then is the whole turbo bad or I should get just the turbo charger electric motor which is that electronic black part on top of the turbo. Problem .is testing all this stuff and seeing what doesn't work. There is no help or guide on testing parts before randomly buying parts.
To summarize :I Replaced
1. O2 bank 1, sensor 2
2. Air intake center tube with both brand new MAF sensors
I still have CEL (check engine light)
OBD II has other codes such IAT (intake air temperature) faulty.
Tons of multiple codes say power train issues (possible transmission failure), but shifts fine.
Any one have any ideas what I should try next? IAT sensor is only like $18, but not sure if the issue.
I am looking at accelerator sensor too, but rather try to test it before replacing.
OBD codes still showing which I have tried several times to clear:
The car suddenly started to not accelerate and hesitate. Won't go over 40mph and uphills it is terrible.
I read the OBD II codes Photos attached) and multiple codes came up including O2 Sensor bank 1, sensor 2. So I replaced it for $95, a bosch brand.
Car still hesitated and same issue occurred.
So further, I read all about the MAF Sensors. I disconnected them and car ran without jittering but still in slow safe (limp) mode. When I connected them back the car would jitter and hesitate but still in limp mode.
I figured the car does have 129K miles so why not change the MAF sensors so i ended up just buying the whole top air intake portion with MAF Sensors already in them. I did not want t take a risk with used ones from ebay for half the cost pretty much. So replacing MAF Sensors I go for a drive and red battery symbol comes up and steering wheel becomes as if I am bodybuilding in the gym, lol. I managed to get the car back home, but weight lifted the entire way, almost like a Flinstones car (hehe)
SO then I did a voltmeter test on the battery in the trunk and it showed 12.0V on car off and 11.7V on car on and it kept dropping. Steering stayed hard.
Then I took the big car battery inside the trunk to autozone for testing which showed battery is perfectly fine.
Then I get home thinking its the alternator. When I removed everything to get to the alternator, I saw the engine (serpentine) belt slipped off and worn out, but did not break in half.
So then I knew alternator is probably fine.
I run to Autozone and get a continental poly v (serpentine)(engine) belt to replace it. Then I test the load on the battery and wallah, right away 13.8V, but battery was 50% so I knew just has to charge up.
So I am back to square one.
Car has power steering and all works, I forgot to mention when the car does pickup I hear this air suction/hissing sound but then goes away. Wondering if it's the TurboCharger and if it is then is the whole turbo bad or I should get just the turbo charger electric motor which is that electronic black part on top of the turbo. Problem .is testing all this stuff and seeing what doesn't work. There is no help or guide on testing parts before randomly buying parts.
To summarize :I Replaced
1. O2 bank 1, sensor 2
2. Air intake center tube with both brand new MAF sensors
I still have CEL (check engine light)
OBD II has other codes such IAT (intake air temperature) faulty.
Tons of multiple codes say power train issues (possible transmission failure), but shifts fine.
Any one have any ideas what I should try next? IAT sensor is only like $18, but not sure if the issue.
I am looking at accelerator sensor too, but rather try to test it before replacing.
OBD codes still showing which I have tried several times to clear:
Last edited by jalopybenz; 03-14-2019 at 06:07 PM. Reason: obd photos
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