You can't help but get a little paranoid when you see new expensive parts sitting unprotected. As I said, the shaft was sticking a little & this was advised by the turbo supplier I spoke with that's why I did it. Least I know it'll be alright.

Thanks for the reply as it eases my mind a bit.

Well engine turns by hand fine. Nice & smooth. I pulled the rocker cover & syringed oil all over the rocker gear. Couldn't help myself

My main concern is the water jackets & general cooling system. The water pump is a bit tighter than it should be. May change this?

Can't get over the awesome condition of the engine. Clean as a whistle. Just hope the valve seals are OK Bit hard to tell until it starts up & rns for the first time. That's a while off yet.
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ForcedInduction I did read however that you need to preload a new turbo with engine oil prior to firing engine up by filling shaft case, turning shaft back & forth then repeating, to ensure optimum life of the unit rather than simply rely on the engine to load it up, as detrimental wear occurs to bearings if you don't do this. This was also stated by previous workshop to prevent turbo failure. Do you think this is unnecessary?

 

Decided to relocate battery to the boot. So I have removed the battery stand & will re-rout ground lead under engine bay & back toward boot. The positive cable can run straight from Starter Motor back to boot making for a neat mod This works out perfectly due to the location of original copper LPG line site is right behind where battery sat With battery removed I can hide the twin LPG converters in it's place, tucked away out of sight. I think I will be running a 2nd copper gas line beside the original one so all the LPG gear can sit in the old battery compartment. Looking from front of car all you'll basically see is the engine, turbo & intake manifold, minus ugly wiring etc

 

Car is now in LPG performance shop. They have to fabricate some sort of splitter box that sits maybe on the new intake mani? to enable both the kick down cable & throttle cable to run to the new throttle body position (no in front of left headlight cover @ front of mani). Also, concerning the ignition rewiring, they'll prolly have to bypass the CC module on the block? I think considering aftermarket steering wheel, it won't work anyway? Too much bull shat to sort now imo.

Also, they're going to luv me for pouring oil all over the rocker gear/valves prior to turning engine by hand @ my place I'm positive I got oil down the valves & definitely squirted oil down each spark plug hole Um, I will have to warn them

So, here comes the fun! When it gets home from shop this time round, I need to replace shocks/springs/front brakes. Install sound system just for starters. I will pop pics up for all this home stuff. Also, pics when car gets home after the engine bay work of course

EDIT: It will be very interesting, on the pocket too, as to how the hell the workshop will re rout throttle & kick-down cables to reach the front of the boxy plenum as this is where the LPG mixer now sits. Looks like they will be making up a divider, perhaps a bracket of sorts positioned @ the rear of the plenum where cables will unite & then subdivide to join other section of cables then heading down to throttle body/mixer Then they will have to fabricate an enclosure box for the pod filter I guess?

Indeed will be interesting............

 

GUYS! she's gonna get BOOSTED yeeeehar! I convinced the wifey the need for power hehe

Was pondering the expense of needing entire new stock exhaust system from headers to tail this morning & on the gutless performance the car will be coming home with as an N/A on LPG when I had this brainstorm......"boost the thing now or go to hell" so, spoke with shop this morning who added the custom boxy would be horrible to tune as an N/A so, I said "er.......let's boost t now & get it over with already

He starts the LPG set up today & will discuss the fabrication of the steam pipe turbo header with his guy this week. I also have to take all the turbo & gear over there later in wek so he has it all ready to go.

FINALLY someone gives a crap about the 300E & there's no turning back, Jack!!!!!!!!

 

Has anyone run an electronic boost controller with stock ECU? Can you do this even?

 

Ok. So I can't run an ebc due to the dinosaur ECU. That's fine. But I don't want a mbc & the hassle of adjusting it up & down & inconvenience thereof. So, I am looking into a high/low switch as they have mounted in the dash of the early boosted Jap cars. They had a sophisticated ECU though obviously. an I run one of these? Is it simply an electrical toggle switch like in an auxiliary/thermo rad fan? Anyone know?

 

I can run an APEXI ebc as they have their own computer to control boost but they are too expensive for my liking...............

A member from another forum sent me a link to US dealer for the WG as prices down here are ridiculous! Prices are great so will be looking into this today. Tial BOV is about the same $$'s though but if packed together will save freight.

Also, looki looki into a way around the turbine housing dilemma I am faced with namely, whether to go with current .63 A/R or swap it out for the .82? sooooo, me thinki thinki.....a while back I mentioned I was researching into twin scroll turbine housings & went hard down this road for a bit but decided against it due to extra cost to swap over as it needed to be sourced from US for my custom turbo. Well, turns out I may just pick the banner up again Why? It will solve the housing dilemma

I have my turbo manufacturer getting back to me in an hr or so with availability of a .82 A/R twin scroll T3 housing to suit the turbo & may be here in Aus This way the header fabrication won't be held up as they can use the T3 footprint & swap out later even = much goodness

This is a really important mod for me & will ensure the car will be more competitive on the street hehe. Will report back with how it goes soon. Kinda running outta time with preparations now. Shop needs to get moving along..........

 

Concerning the twin scroll housing, it uses a V Band exhaust housing so this will save me not having to get a dump pipe flange made up to suit as I need to with the current .63 housing. Also, I will get a discount if I send the .63 housing back.

Concerning ignition, we're having alot of hassle trying to work out the MSD set up that was originally on car. Real pita!!!!!!! Just can't see how the car originally got spark with this set up? Even a Merc guy we consulted states we need the original distributor but it's on dedicated LPG via a mixer damn it So effectively, we're stumped until we work this part out Either we source a trigger wheel here or we may go Haltech with wasted spark? This is what I'd rather do so we can get moving on it. Trying to work with this MSD is holding the whole thing up............

 

Just completed ridiculously thorough research on how the ss .63 A/R turbine housing mated to the GT35R indeed behaves on specific 3.0L platforms. I say ridiculously thorough because I've spent hrs merely sifting through piles & piles of crap (2nd & 3rd hand advice) on forum discussions in order to get to the few posts containing the evidence from members actually owning/testing the stuff that others waffle on about, in order to weigh the 'pros' & 'cons' of the effects each housing has on street performance.

Anyway, finally realising the guy @ original workshop is correct on one important matter.......the .63 A/R housing will be a maniac for the street. Dyno figures aside (VE ie: top end performance/rwhp), the thing will be a wheelspin junkie Obviously the .82 A/R housing will = greater power & allow boost to come on more gradual (linear) & solve the wheelspin issue but the trade-off will be 500rpm added to spooltime

What does that exactly mean? If I use the smaller snail, I will have to watch exiting any remotely tight corners, especially in the wet ohhhh FUN Flipside? What fun this bugger will be once I get used to it hehe ...........er.......gettin off this ergonomic chair as I really have a sore *** & back & my legs are now totally numb