Well, really don't think the gas has anything to do with it : filled it up drove it about 40km , dis-connected battery and wham ....

I did just speak to an ECU shop expert - he thought of 2 things that should be checked : First, the throttle butterfly is electro_mechanical which means that the accelerator cable is NOT connected to the throttle but rather to a potentialmeter that send pedal position to ECU then ECU sends variable voltage (from .4V at idle to 5V WOT) to the throttle acuator.
Second possible problem is the cold start temp sensor if faulty could think it's -50° and would command an over-rich situation that would flood engine when accerator is pushed.

Any other ideas ? Thanks a 1,000,000

 

WOW and i thought $87.50 was bad. I pay 65 on the rare occasion i cant do it.

 

Ok - I think I'm on to something : I dis-connected the connector that connects the potentialmeter from the accel pedal to the ECU and throttle butterfly : absolutly no change. What that tells me is that pushing the accel pedal has no effect so I deduce that either the throttle butterfly accuator is faulty/not working OR the accel potentialmeter is not sending the pedal position signal to the ECU/throttle acuator.

Any ideas ? Does anybody know how to check/test the throttel butterfly ?

 

WoW ! Check this out ! There is a whole lot to know about EA (Engine Accelerator) & ETA (Electronic Throttle Actuator)

Read this :
"Enabling safe continued running depending on the fault which occurs at the electronic accelerator.
Pedal value sensor emergency running :
If a potentiometer fails, the system switches over to the second potentiometer. Throttle valve opening is limited to approx. 60 %. In addition, a dynamic limiting of the throttle valve opening rate is activated, the throttle valve opens with a time delay (EPC malfunction indicator lamp does not come on).
"
It's all on this site :

http://www.baxnet.com/merc/tadiags/ta-diags.htm

Anybody here have any experience with the Elec. Throttle Acuator ?

 

I don't want to go deep into it because going back and forth about it won't lead anywhere, but every time you describe what has happened it's different. Nevertheless, it sounds like you may be on the right track now. Wait for sleepwalker's input, or one of the other techs that roam around here.

 

I am not happy about the gas thing.

I have to strongly suggest you eliminate it as a possibility. Easy and cheap enough to do. Here is what can happen. You got good gas, but over time you get a little water in your tank. Many ways for that to happen. The water mixed in with the gas does crazy things. You might have blown the electrodes off the spark plugs. This will compromise the ignition system.

So do this. Pull the plugs. Pull the fuel filter and check its contents. If all is well there, not much lost, peace of mind gained, and you can go back to looking for the wayward electrons.

 

Air mass sensor without a doubt I work for MB and the poor fuel economy and irratic idle give the game away, If the sensor is faulty and you disconnect the battery the throttle loses its memory, as sensor faulty it wont reteach renew sensor and repeat ignition on trick to reteach throttle stop

 

Won't a failed MAF sensor set a fault code and turn on the CEL?

 

oh boy.

never dis-regard the bad fuel issue for it is one of possibility except: when you step on the accelerator and see that the throttle valve got no response (with ignition on and with engine running).

i cannot decide on what the problem is since am not with the car and cannot see the actual value and fault codes.

let's see... what makes me think the ecu got problem?
*the part number is obsolete. they modify it which means there is something funny with the design.
**it got the same symptoms as in service information...no fault code and no check engine light. (does your cluster got CEL anyway?).
***the pedal value sensor is connected directly to it. the sensor or the wiring is less likely to go faulty by just disconnecting the battery when it was working well earlier. you have checked the input and it was okay.
****it already shows some telltale signs that it was faulty such as sluggish performance?

best way is to swallow the "fast test" by the dealer just to shed light on your problem to save time and lower your blood pressure a little.

 

Or find a Bosch authorized service center if u dont want to go to a Dealer the one thats close to me can run MB diagnostics.