First of all thank you for your time. Currently own a 2002 CLK55 and am having issues with the convertible top light on console-the light stays on at all times. The top appears to open and close without problems, but when the top is up, I am unable to open the trunk..if the top is down, there is no problem with the trunk. The mechanic replaced the rear window stop lock thinking that was the problem, it was not. If the top is opened and closed several times, the light may finally go out and the trunk will open, but the next time the car is started, the same problem exists.

 

Hello, any thoughts?

I have a 1985 500 SEL with 68,000 miles, never had a problem with it beyond regular maintenance.

I drove 90 minutes to a friends home 3 days ago and all is well. I leave 5 hours later, clear weather, no problems, when 10 minutes later at 65 mph on the freeway there is a little "pop", engine instantly dies and dash lights up.

I coast to the side through heavy traffic flying by. I try twice to restart but it does not fire. Ten minutes later while arranging for a tow (AAA wants $550) I try again and it fires right up and not another problem since.

Any suggestions? Fuel filters are new. Relay?

Thanks, Steve

 

Hi, I do hope you can help..warning lights stay on in the dash, abs light, brake pad warning light and red light (circle with exclamation mark in). Revs dropped to virtual cut out at junctions and speedo has stopped, all at once. Fluid level was fine, pads good etc. ABS pump is good as a spare plugged in proved. ECU is good as a spare plugged in proved.
Any help would be so appreciated, thanks.
Matt (1996 C230 Kompressor)

 

Hello,

I have a quick question for you if you dont mind. I own a 1986 560sl with roughly 125000 miles on it, the motor runs just fine and no sign of smoke at all. What type and brand of oil would you recommend for this car?

Thank you very much for your assistance.

 

I have an 87 300 TDT w/about 175k miles. Has done great. Lately, when I start it, it takes 2-3 times to start, and it idles really rough, and the tachometer doesn't move and the ABS light goes on. Sometimes, after a few minutes, there is a kind of a jolt, and the engine runs smooth and the tach kicks on and the ABS light goes off. Lately, however, it no longer jolts, and it continues to idle rough. When you accelerate, it drives fine, but the tach still doesn't move, and the ABS light stays on. Is this a vacuum proboem? How do I diagnose it?

 

Hello, I just bought a 1995 Mercedes c220 and it's my first car. The car runs great and everything, but some buttons don't work. How can I fix this problem?

 

im buying a 93 500 sel and the trans overheats and the car shuts down. thanks steve

 

FIXED THE PROBLEM - IT WAS THE OVP RELAY UNDER THE BONNET ON THE RIGHT AT THE BACK. Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

I changed the oil in my V6 turbo diesel (at under 5000 Km). The oil filter cap O-ring would not hold pressure. I tried another O-ring which held presure at idle but burst at higher RPM. I tightened the cap according to the torque specification on the cap each time. Any suggestions?

 

Any suggestions on what I can do to fix a rear trunk lid that doesnt auto-open the full distance? Opens about 3/4 of the way and stops, it closses fine. I have brought it to the shop twice before for this problem and they fix it easy enough but I want to fix it myself or learn what not to do so as not to create the problem...
any thoughts... thanks