Fuse, relay, or?
#1
Fuse, relay, or?
Hi, Posted this in the C class section, but thought maybe I'd have a better chance getting an answer to my question. So, sorry for the double posting.
I recently purschased a 1998 C230 andexperiencing my first problem with it and hope that someone can help.
Had the car parked overnight without any problems and the next day my remote wouldn't open the door. Batteries in remote were good, but to be sure I put in new batteries and still nothing. I opened the door manually and the alarm went off, stuck the key in ignition started car thinking the alarm would turn off, but it didn't. Ended up turning the alarm off using key in trunk. Strange part is that along with the remote, none of the following are NOT working:
windows
turn signals
wipers
door lock switch
trunk switch
rear head rest switch
power seat
front dome light
Figured it was a fuse, but they're all good. Also, checked the fuses with a test light and all is good. Is there a relay that covers all listed above? I was thinking it might be the key, but the service advisor at MB said that a bad key wouldn't cause this and it sounds like a fuse. I like working on my own cars and don't want to take it to the dealer if it's an easy fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I recently purschased a 1998 C230 andexperiencing my first problem with it and hope that someone can help.
Had the car parked overnight without any problems and the next day my remote wouldn't open the door. Batteries in remote were good, but to be sure I put in new batteries and still nothing. I opened the door manually and the alarm went off, stuck the key in ignition started car thinking the alarm would turn off, but it didn't. Ended up turning the alarm off using key in trunk. Strange part is that along with the remote, none of the following are NOT working:
windows
turn signals
wipers
door lock switch
trunk switch
rear head rest switch
power seat
front dome light
Figured it was a fuse, but they're all good. Also, checked the fuses with a test light and all is good. Is there a relay that covers all listed above? I was thinking it might be the key, but the service advisor at MB said that a bad key wouldn't cause this and it sounds like a fuse. I like working on my own cars and don't want to take it to the dealer if it's an easy fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
#6
RE: Fuse, relay, or?
Dropped the car off at the dealership this morning, had it all day and they can't seem to find the problem. They're going to keep it overnight and keep working on it. They think there maybe a short somewhere or water leaked into one of the electrical components, dunno
#7
RE: Fuse, relay, or?
Hi,
I suspected that it was something unusually because of the systems that have gone down.
These systems use digital to connect separate "modules" around the car and it appears that something is corrupting the digital highway signal (CAN)
Did they find any codes? I assume they have checked.
Water (very small quantity) is a real possibility if it finds its way between the CAN wires (usually white and green).
Short is unlikely unless something has happened to car. Accident, engine out, dash rattle "fixed" etc.
Of course it could be the body controller gone bad...usually water.... which is located in the back of the engine bay. (Black box). The cover isn't missing or loose..... Is it?
Unplug, inspect, replug the body controller.
Mmm you need somebody working on the car close to it.
Let us know what is found.
Stuart
I suspected that it was something unusually because of the systems that have gone down.
These systems use digital to connect separate "modules" around the car and it appears that something is corrupting the digital highway signal (CAN)
Did they find any codes? I assume they have checked.
Water (very small quantity) is a real possibility if it finds its way between the CAN wires (usually white and green).
Short is unlikely unless something has happened to car. Accident, engine out, dash rattle "fixed" etc.
Of course it could be the body controller gone bad...usually water.... which is located in the back of the engine bay. (Black box). The cover isn't missing or loose..... Is it?
Unplug, inspect, replug the body controller.
Mmm you need somebody working on the car close to it.
Let us know what is found.
Stuart
#8
RE: Fuse, relay, or?
Got the car back from the dealer. Turns out there was a short in the right rear door control unit. Dealer wanted $820 to replace unit. According to dealer the reason so expensive is that the unit only comes in a kit along with window motor and regulator. I opted to repair on my own. The tech unpluged the control unit for the meantime and everything except the right rear window is now working. Now all I have to do is find a control unit. Any ideas where to pick one up? Thanks for your help.
Cheers
Cheers
#9
RE: Fuse, relay, or?
Good.
I believe I wasn't far away.
The short to which you refer is likely between the Hi and Low conductors of the CAN. usually Green and white on the multi connector. this is why so many other systems which are connected to the very same CAN connectors are adveresly affected.
Look VERY carefully for any signs of a deposit on the connector or module. I'll lay odds there are traces of copper salt deposit (blue) due to moisture / water ingress. If you clean the contacts EXTREMELY carefully you just may get the unit to work again.
On the other hand maybe the corrosion is too bad (internally) or the unit has gone bad for some other reason in which case you will have to find a new unit.
Info regarding module ONLY being sold with motor and mech sounds odd bvut i am not familiar with C class.
Stuart!
I believe I wasn't far away.
The short to which you refer is likely between the Hi and Low conductors of the CAN. usually Green and white on the multi connector. this is why so many other systems which are connected to the very same CAN connectors are adveresly affected.
Look VERY carefully for any signs of a deposit on the connector or module. I'll lay odds there are traces of copper salt deposit (blue) due to moisture / water ingress. If you clean the contacts EXTREMELY carefully you just may get the unit to work again.
On the other hand maybe the corrosion is too bad (internally) or the unit has gone bad for some other reason in which case you will have to find a new unit.
Info regarding module ONLY being sold with motor and mech sounds odd bvut i am not familiar with C class.
Stuart!
#10
RE: Fuse, relay, or?
You were pretty close to issue. Tech found a lot of CAN codes. Tested the CAN high/low system and founda short to ground on CAN system and was traced to door. I have'nt seen the module itself, but was told shortburned through, so no chance repairing. Window are tinted and tech suspects that water made its way to the module when tint was put on and over the years finally failed. The part nbr they show needed on invoice is #202-730-20-46 which is for the window regulator that comes with module/motor. Guess if I only want the module I'd have to get it at a wrecking yard or something. I found the regulator online for about$270. Not too expensive. I didn't take into consideration thatquote from dealeralso included labor. Thanks again!
Rod
Rod
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