thanks for the reply. I spoke with a window guy and he said that resealing would not fix the problem, but my weatherstripping is dried out around the windshield, which may be the cause. I am about to order new weatherstripping. That sealent you used, was that a silicone base?? I don't have trouble with my trunk. It just is on the back floor and rolls forward to under the front seat. I'll touch base again with my progress. Thanks.

 

I have tried hours to find the source of these leaks.
The good news: Well, In the end of I have won. No leaks.

Bad news, process of continually sealing up. Depending upon which car and the type. In the end, most of my cars I have just ended up sealing up everything. I get the black tube of rtv I get it at Walmart. I am not sure if it is silicone base. It does work though. I usually first put a bead around where the windshield glass makes contact to the rubber. I have had leaks here. Typically then the water shows up at the corners of the windshield.

In other cases, even after I have done this, I still have had water show up either on the inside of the corners but more typically on the floor.

Then I take the black window sealent and I put a bead along the aluminum strip that runs along the top of the windshield (on the roof of the car). I seal back and forth.
I will test. In some cases this has worked.

Last resort, I seal up the channel that allows water on the roof to run down the channel on the far left and right corner of the car.
The job isn't that pretty but from a distant you can't tell. Anything to stop the water from getting in the car.

Ohhh, by the way, The last classic problem is the weather strip on the car doors all end up going.
The result, water will run down the inside of the car door. This will inevitably cause your doors to rust at the bottom (particularly either side).
I have tried the sealent but it does NOT work, just makes the windown harder to go up and down. I have never tried to replace this weather strip. Doesn't look easy (plus expensive),
So I have stuck with taking the panel off the door and putting the anti rust stuff and coating the bottom of the door. Helps a LoT.

Ohh, also ALWAYS make sure you spray undercoating underneath around the car tires for any car 1980 and earlier. Why, the inside cracks and the tires sprays water in and the water than drip around and rusts out the corners of the car. (where the jack stands go).

Good luck

 

Hey puddin,

So how did it work out?

 

I actually was going to post an update. I recently replaced the weatherstripping on the windshield and have run a few water tests (with the hose) and its been dry. When I took up the old stuff, I noticed how dry and crappy the old stuff was. I hope this is the fix. I will check back in again after the next rain storm.

 

Thanks for your post. How hard was it to replace the weather stripping. I assume you pulled out the whole front windshield right?

Keep in mind also to ALWAYS seal the undercoating around the wheels. it always cracks and rusts out just in front of the wheel and behind it. Also on the bottom of the doors from the seals on the door windows being bad. Water drips on inside of the door.... Haven't found a cheap way to fix that (or even if I can replace those seals).

PS:Also, I think I gave you an update. On my 1980 mercedes 300SD, I adjusted the valves myself and now she runs great (and starts up in like 15 degree F temp).
I then tried to adjust valves on my 1979 Mercedes 300SD. (I first did compression check and here were the results 390, 390, 320, 150, 250 psi) I did the valves. I went to check compression but the fitting to my new compression tester I just bought on Ebay just broke (hard to get the fitting on to test compression, do you have any thoughts of what to buy?).
Anyway, the car still really smokes bad. I am afraid the cyclinder rings are bad on that once cylinder. I will try again adjusting the valves but doesn't look good (she really smokes but does idle good).

Scott

 

Another update -- it does look like the weather stripping on the front windshield did the trick! It has been a few weeks now with a few bad rainstorms and no water inside! I am quite syked about it. I also have parked up a hill and down the hill to give it a good shot at it and all is well. Now when the weather gets a little more warmer, I can clean up my floor and put my new carpets in!! yahoo!!

 

Hey Puddin,

I know what you mean about being psyched when you fix that. Now which weather stripping did you replace. I assume this is the one that goes around the entire windshield, is that correct? Do you have to take the windshield out to do that?

 

first place to check is behind the hood hinges on both sides as well as under the battery. Take out battery tray and probe with a sharp object all the way back. If you find rot, which you will. I would do one at a time. Take spring and hinge off, sanblast and fiberglass. Make sure you dont put too much glass directly across from where the hinge goes in as there is not a lot of clearance when you put the hinge back in. Water ususlly will drip down from there and to the rear along side adjacent to rockers. Also may be comming from windshield frame. Take out glass, inspect and fix any rust, and replace with new rubber. If you dont feel comfortable putting the glass in call a moblile glass guy. I got a quote of $50 to put it in. It took me 10 minutes by myself. On that age vehicle you need to do rear also. Get a body manual if you dont have one. Taking the trim out and then window is a do it yourselfer. gunslinger

 

Also, if doing one side at a time you will need to support hood from inside w stick/broom handle.

 

Yes, it was the one around the windshield. I did not take out the windshield. I spoke with a window guy and said I did not need to take it out. The guy said that the way they are put it, just redoing the weatherstrip does not require to pull it out. I did not and its good.