I guess you are intitled to your opinion as am I.

Our 8V71's were in Silver Eagle buses and each engine had close to a million miles on them and we had serviced them for over 18 years. It must have not been to bad for them because they're still running. The DT466, 9.0L and 8.2L were/are all in school buses that run stop and go all day.

A Mercedes in NOT a two-cycle.

As far as the oil leaks, you must be a much better mechanic than I am or at least a lot luckier.

But of course....... I've been wrong before and very well could be this time.

Tony T.

 

As you could guess, I am automotive enthusiast (with mechanical education, but working in different trades) and have lot of bad experience with so-called professionals.
I mentioned the low-ash oil for 2-cycles, because this is what Detroit is so particular about and I value the engine too much, to risk otherwise.
I know, that they might have run for million miles with other oil, but I am not to find it out.
Actually I can write whole book about oil changes. With so popular "Oil change 3000" whenever I say, that my flexible system gives me 13,000 miles and 2-years periods on Mercedes, lot of people call me liar.
Than in 80's I worked with a guy, that drove cheap Nissan. He figured out, the truck was so cheap, that it is not worth changing the oil at all. Not only he never changed the oil, nor filter, but he didn't add the oil, unless the red light was on for more, than 2 minutes. What that means, that starting cold, the engine was starving for oil, till the thermal expansion give the pump better supply. At the time when I quit the job, he had over 160,000 miles on his 4-cylinder.
Coming back to 8V71, I have a good guess what is the major problem. The valve covers have no solid guides and can play quite a bit on the holding 2 bolts. When I put new gaskets, I didn't pay attention and the covers leaked oil badly. I redid it and took my time to make sure the covers line-up with the heads.
How many mechanics would you expect to go to this extend?

 

Kajtek1 I guess you could be right. When we were running a "Rack" on those engines we always seemed to be in a hurry to get them back on the road. I'm sure we didn't spend the extra time that we should have just because we were being pushed to get them finished.

Come to think of it the only reason we used the Rotella T in all of our engines was because the School system I worked for bought the oil in 500 gallon tanks and we used what we had, as is so often the case. The only reason I use Rotella today is I just remember how well the engines held up considering the abuse they took and the engines always looked nice and clean on the inside when we took the valve covers off.

Thanks for your insight
Tony T

 

Btw, I have a few more questions here .

 

Okay, I'm a little confused by this list of approved oils. I've been running the Rotella T 15/40 for a couple years 85 300-SD in all climates with no problems. I've had the valve cover off for valve adjustments and it's real clean in there.

My question is, should I be running low ash oil?? Apparently the Rotella is not low ash, and is NOT on the list of approved low ash oils (below), but is designed for high soot loads. Will this affect the turbo long term? I really don't want to switch to synthetic. Also, (maybe for another thread) what about the filter? Is the filter designed for use with ALL oils???

MB sheet 229.31 approved oils; LA "low ash" Oils
This is a new spec pioneered by Mercedes for passenger cars with diesel engines with EURO 4 soot particle filters, e.g. W211 E200 CDI, E220 CDI. The spec was introduced 7/2003. They are called LA "low ash" oils, low on sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulphur to limit particle filter pollution. Oils high in e.g. ZDDP additive can not qualify. In 2004 the ACEA introduced the new C3 spec (mid SAPS, normal viscosity) based on the 229.31.

30
Aral Tronic 229.31 5W-30
BP Visco 5000 MB 5W-30
Castrol FORMULA SLX Turbo Diesel 0W-30
Castrol TXT Softec MB 5W-30
Fuchs Titan GT 1 5W-30
Liqui Moly TopTec 7000 LA
Low SPAsh Motorenöl 5W-30 (DaimlerChrysler)
Midland Synqron 5W-30
Mobil SHC Formula LA 5W-30
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 (from 3/2005)
Pento High Performance 5W-30 LA
Shell Helix Diesel Ultra AE 5W-30
Shell Helix Ultra AE 5W-30
Wintershall ViVA 1 topsynth alpha LA 5W-30
40
Aral SuperTronic 0W-40 LOW SAPS (ACEA C3)
Aral SuperTronic Diesel 0W-40 (ACEA C3)
Castrol GTD Magnatec 5W-40
Fuchs Titan GT 1 10W-40 (developed for OM 642)
Liqui Moly TOP TEC 4100 5W-40
Midland Synqron 5W-40
Motor Gold Mid SAPS 5W-40
Motul SAE 5W-40 Vollsynthetisch
Pento High Performance 5W-40 LA

 

Sorry for the confusion. We went well past original topic.
So-called low ash oil supposable is critical for 2-cycle diesels, but from what tonkyman says, this is more manufacturer BS, than a real sicence.
Follow the manufacturer recommendation. I own VW diesel, that is having its own oil specification.
There are only 2 oils available with it on US market. Can you guess the price?
Anyway, as mentioned, if you are in critical situation - any oil will work, but for exchange, get the oil with required specification.

 

Thanks Kajtek.......I think I'll stick with the Rotella T, and keep it clean (Dino/3000), and worry about something else going wrong!