-Some regulars here may remember I posted last fall about a RETARDED mechanic who replaced my injection pump (did a fine job on it) but replaced the oil supply to the injector with a cheesy fuel line that ruptured and caused the motor to run out of oil and stop running! -Okay, tax time came and I decided to sink some cash into my car, Mika. I won't get into all I did but mostly what's relevant here. I replaced the glow plugs and wires, cleaned out the EGR (lots of build up in there), turbo oil return tube, oil pan, engine flush (just two oil changes basically) radiator flush, air filter anti rattle kit. The valves were adjusted about 2ooo miles ago and ran good before I did this mind you. The engine fires RIGHT up and runs very good in park even when I "give it the gas". I replaced all the brakes, bearings, shox, yadda-yadda-yadda. Then I took her out for a test drive. -Well, she seemed a bit sluggish and only got worse from there. The turbo began SCREAMING like a cat in a blender and I could not get her over 20 MPH. Any ideas? Sounds like the turbo may be shot? I've never owned a car with a turbo before so I'm confused because it is clearly spinning but...could it possibly be a simple as I damaged the EGR? A vacuum line I missed on replacing or misplaced?

 

While I have ya here, anyone have a vacuum diagram for my car? 617 engine

 

Only because this happened to me, (though not as severe, no screaming turbos) I would suggest checking for proper fuel flow, from the front filters all the way back to the tank. Seems like at idle and low power its getting enough fuel but not when the engine demands more. Just a suggestion cuz it fixed my car. It sat for who knows how long before I got to it and ran pitiful before I cleaned out the system.

good luck

 

http://www.peterschmid.com/vacuum.htm Vacuum Diagram site however; people have said it does not match all models.
Look for the sticker on the radiator support and see if there is a Vacuum Diagram there.

You turbo uses no Vacuum. With the Engine cold and not running remove the Air intake to gain access to the intake side of the Turbo. Grab the Shaft Retainer Nut and push and pull the Rotating assembly back and fourth. You should hardly any or no end play.
As best you can pull the Assembly forward and twist it to see if it is rubbing on the housing. If it is making any contact at all it is no good.

Do the same the same as the last sentance but when you twist put some side pressure on it and see if it rubs the housing.

If the Turbo is no good most get a used one from the Junk Yard as a rebuilt one is around $300 US.
If you are going to kee pyour Car I would get the Factory Service Manual Set.

Factory Service Manual CD Set $19.99+$7 shipping
http://www.classictechlit.mbusa.com/...ssicTechLit%29

 

Okay, I found a couple of turbos via e-bay! They are used with a 7 day money back-yadda-yadda. Question: how do I test it without installing it? Can it be accurately tested this way? Thank-ee!

 

The ONLY one's I've found are thus- $250 from a local salvage as is; $250 as is from a bloke in Washington (Mercedessource) who has done me well in the past; $240 from a bloke in Cal on e-bay 7 day money back; $2790 new from Mercedes in Germany. I am ust not finding one for under those, sadly.

 

I think you have another issue going on. Turbo or not you Car should be able to go faster. So I would trouble shoot that before the worry about the Turbo.

I think for another $100 you can get a rebuilt Turbo but you would also have to pay to ship your old one back.
The Turbo is most likely a Garrett (Air Research) Turbo and they are also made here. There is also a KKK Turbo that was used on some models. I do not know where that was made.

 

I have bought one for my 300sd 1984 and did not installed it I sold the car I still have the turbo for sale