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1996 300D won't start

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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
axel_g's Avatar
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Question 1996 300D won't start

My diesel will not start after I had probably lost some glow plugs (rough starting and running after starting) Is it possible I lost all plugs or does the computer? lock out the fuel after so many plugs don't work?
Also it looks like a lot of parts have to be removed to get to the plugs?
Best place to get plugs reasonable priced.
Can somebody help? Thanks
 
Old Jul 17, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by axel_g
My diesel will not start after I had probably lost some glow plugs (rough starting and running after starting) Is it possible I lost all plugs or does the computer? lock out the fuel after so many plugs don't work?
Also it looks like a lot of parts have to be removed to get to the plugs?
Best place to get plugs reasonable priced.
Can somebody help? Thanks
Since I don't know the temperature of your location, if it is on the cool side, from what you describe, your glow plugs might be the cause of the non starting. If any of your glow plugs are bad, your dash should be indicating a cel, and your glow plug light should remain on after starting. You should be warned, that the engine in your car is prone to having glow plugs breaking off during the extraction process. If that happens, you may have to pull the head and send it out to a machine shop to have them do the extraction of the broken plug. Patience is a virtue when taking on the glow plug job, using plenty of PB blaster, and taking your time. If a plug is bound up in the head, trying to force it out can spell disaster. When I replaced my plugs, I used a torque wrench and stayed within 50 N/M in both directions. The plugs can get carbon bound, but with enough PB Blaster and patience you should be able to get them out. As far as the other parts that need to be removed, it is not that big an issue. The intake manifold, crossover pipe, and bracket that holds the egr valve in place. Be advise that on the underside of the crossover pipe their are two small electrical connectors attached to the resonance flaps actuators along with some vacuum lines. It is also advisable to remove the window washer solution bottle to allow you more working room. Good luck!!
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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Thank you pimpernell?,
It is not too cold, 18C. I was aware that some plug must be bad, i.e. sign stays up.
But this time is different. 5 minutes after I started it it would not start again, feels like no fuel.
Good pointer about the problems with removing the plugs, thank you.
For starters I will replace all plugs, that's how the problem started.
I found a place, Auto Parts Warehouse, Bosh plugs $~20.00. that sounds good.
 
Old Jul 18, 2011 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by axel_g
Thank you pimpernell?,
It is not too cold, 18C. I was aware that some plug must be bad, i.e. sign stays up.
But this time is different. 5 minutes after I started it it would not start again, feels like no fuel.
Good pointer about the problems with removing the plugs, thank you.
For starters I will replace all plugs, that's how the problem started.
I found a place, Auto Parts Warehouse, Bosh plugs $~20.00. that sounds good.
If it failed to restart after being warmed up, you may have a fuel problem. I don't know when you last changed out the fuel filters, but that would be a good place to start, and it is not expensive. In my first reply, I failed to mention reaming out the glow plug holes prior to putting in the new plugs. This will insure that the new plugs will perform as designed and eliminate the possibility of premature failure. The reamer has flutes on it, that you coat with grease and as you ream out the hole, the carbon deposits are held by the grease until you remove the reamer.
 
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