1987 300D Out of fuel trouble
#11
10-11-2013, 10:45 PM
You have not commented on if you checked the Glow Plugs.
You can get a Digital Multimeter (volt/ohm Meter) from Harbor Freight Stores for about $6.
This is not a recommendation to buy parts there but the Diesel Giant website has a Pictorial poorly titled as "Glow Plug Repair" that walks through the steps of checking the Resistance of the Glow Plugs with an Ohm Meter.
It takes about 4-5 minutes the first time you do it.
After you do that reconnect the Electrical Connector and have someone start the preglow cycle and see if the Glow Plugs are getting Voltage.
Also you can ignore the Glow Plug Light and keep the Key in the Preglow Position until you here the Glow Plug Relay click off. That allows the total time that the timer in the relay allows which is about 30 seconds of total preglow time.
Also if the Car has a Block Heater you can also plug that in so that the Engine is nice and warm before you attempt to start. Every little bit helps. Just, remember to disconnect the Block Heater before you drive off.
Also most Glow Plug Relays have a metal strip that is the Fuse. They can crack and that is hard to see and the Screws can also be loose.
There was a few models that came with a Glow Plug relay that has a Circuit Breaker. So if you cannot find a Fuse on the Relay look for a Button to push to reset the Circuit Breaker.
As you said there is no Hand Primer as the Fuel Supply System is supposed to be self bleeding. However, it cannot do that easily to large volumes of Air.
One of the Main Reasons not to use Starting Fluid (it has Ether in it) is that while you are cranking the Engine the Glow Plugs are supposed to be working. That means the Starting Fluid can ignite as soon as it reaches the Glow Plugs (Ether is rather explosive) well before the Piston gets close to the normal Injection time.
People seem to have safely used WD-40 sprayed into the Intake some intakes may be too long for it to easily reach the Cylinder.
If you insist on using Either disconnect the Electrical Connectors at the Glow Plug Relay so they do not turn on and have someone else do the Cranking while you administer the minimum amount needed.
Nothing like spraying a bunch of Starter Fluid into the Manifold and running to jump in the Car and start; by, that time you are sure to get a big slug uncontrolled slug of Starting Fluid in the Engine.
You can get a Digital Multimeter (volt/ohm Meter) from Harbor Freight Stores for about $6.
This is not a recommendation to buy parts there but the Diesel Giant website has a Pictorial poorly titled as "Glow Plug Repair" that walks through the steps of checking the Resistance of the Glow Plugs with an Ohm Meter.
It takes about 4-5 minutes the first time you do it.
After you do that reconnect the Electrical Connector and have someone start the preglow cycle and see if the Glow Plugs are getting Voltage.
Also you can ignore the Glow Plug Light and keep the Key in the Preglow Position until you here the Glow Plug Relay click off. That allows the total time that the timer in the relay allows which is about 30 seconds of total preglow time.
Also if the Car has a Block Heater you can also plug that in so that the Engine is nice and warm before you attempt to start. Every little bit helps. Just, remember to disconnect the Block Heater before you drive off.
Also most Glow Plug Relays have a metal strip that is the Fuse. They can crack and that is hard to see and the Screws can also be loose.
There was a few models that came with a Glow Plug relay that has a Circuit Breaker. So if you cannot find a Fuse on the Relay look for a Button to push to reset the Circuit Breaker.
As you said there is no Hand Primer as the Fuel Supply System is supposed to be self bleeding. However, it cannot do that easily to large volumes of Air.
One of the Main Reasons not to use Starting Fluid (it has Ether in it) is that while you are cranking the Engine the Glow Plugs are supposed to be working. That means the Starting Fluid can ignite as soon as it reaches the Glow Plugs (Ether is rather explosive) well before the Piston gets close to the normal Injection time.
People seem to have safely used WD-40 sprayed into the Intake some intakes may be too long for it to easily reach the Cylinder.
If you insist on using Either disconnect the Electrical Connectors at the Glow Plug Relay so they do not turn on and have someone else do the Cranking while you administer the minimum amount needed.
Nothing like spraying a bunch of Starter Fluid into the Manifold and running to jump in the Car and start; by, that time you are sure to get a big slug uncontrolled slug of Starting Fluid in the Engine.
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Redrover
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10-24-2004 06:41 PM
