The key is whether the switch works electrically when installed. One circuit NC and the other NO. You need to get your multimeter out.

Alternatively fit a new switch and I will be surprised if your problem isn't resolved.

This problem is a well known and documented issue.

Stuart

 

I agree with your statement, however, when I had the exact same problem, I pulled out the switch, pulled out the stem and re-installed the switch and the problem went away. I went ahead and purchased a new switch and installed it about a month later and no problems since.
I just wanted to point out that the stem needs to be pulled out before installation because it is self adjusting, unlike the old days when the brake light switch was adjusted using a bracket and lock nut.

 

Hi SLK230Red.

Thanks for the additional info.

The point I was trying to make is "Does the switch, when installed, give the correct signal".

Basically remove the multipin connector and then establish that one circuit is NO and the other NC with your foot OFF the brake, and then ensure that the switch positions change with your foot ON the brake.

This check eliminates all aspects of the switch installation without even having to remove the switch if electrically all is OK.

If the switch has lost adjustment I guess the ratchet device inside the switch has become damaged for some reason and MAY therefore need to be replaced.

I don't know for sure but I expect the failure mode on this switch to be.... burnt/fractured contacts.

The original poster of this thread has still not confirmed his actual tyre size, tyre wear, tyre pressure etc. Bazzle is bang on that the system throws a "non plausible" code if the car has a tyre diameter outside set limits Front to Rear and Side to Side (4 speed sensors). This may not be the cause but the possibility needs to be eliminated. The tyres will have different pressure after refit and wear may have already used up a significant portion of the available limit range. Unlikely but possible.

Stuart.

 

Hi,

Subject to the tyre size (+wear and pressures) being correct and the brake switch NC/NO being OK the next likely cause is as I stated earlier....

ESP + BAS + ASR + CRUISE malfunction together is most likely a speed signal error which most likely points to the wheel speed sensors. Mileage? Sensors can get dirty with brake dust etc but also vulnerable to damaged (wiring) during brake pad change etc.

Is it possible that the sensor wires were damaged when they changed the wheels? Quite possible.

You have also been advised to normalise the steering wheel sensor.

................................

There isn't much else left that is common to all these systems.......so

Is the wheel offset correct (the same) on your new rims?
The ESP system relies on a given (tested) wheel offset. When the car is skidding sideways or rotating (Yaw) the EPS determines which brakes to apply to sort things out. This involves complex calculations which are embedded in the EPS ABS software and use a given value for wheel offset. If the offset has been changedthis MAY throw a "non plausible" code.

Stuart

 

Ok well i was gone for the weekend and I came back and the lights have gone off and my cruise control works now. Thanks everyone who posted I really appreciate it.
Dustin