Hi people
Just bought a 1990 500 with a faulty roof and roll bar, neither work but the lights come on as thay should to suggest they are working?
i know the car has been jump started and a new battery fitted,
I've read about disconecting the top controller so i'll try this but can anyone tell me where it is please? its a rhd car
Also i will get the error codes from the diagnostic port but can anyone tell me where to locate this port? and any other other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
great forum guys i'm looking forward to owning the car and i'm sure you'll be seeing a lot more of me on this site

 

The controller is under the compartment behind the right seat. It's under the black plastic cover.

I have had to lock all my locks manually with the soft top tool after I had all my cylinders rebuilt and replaced at once, before all the air was out of the hydraulic system. Before, the controller seemed to be frozen by some limit switches indicating that it was in mid-cycle. After the first manual locking, the system picked up by itself, and was able to vent itself.

 

Ok so i've done the diagnostic test but cant find anywhere that tells you what the codes mean, my codes would clear but themn after starting the car they would come back, codes were 6,7,10,11 and 20, any idea what they mean? thanks

 

Just double-checking before you go deeply into the error codes on your controller: are all your top locks locked all the way? Again, my roof didn't move either after I replaced all my cylinders (rebuilt by Top Hydraulics www.tophydraulicsinc.com) and did not have all locks manually locked first. I may be wrong, but this is a simple procedure to follow before messing with the electronics.

I am not an expert on error codes.

 

let's synchronize the top first. with doors closed, top either up or down, roll up windows and continue to hold down on the buttons for an additional 6 seconds and try top again. if you're manually locking the top you should hear or feel a click at each point when they are fully locked. if you're shorting ports 1 and 10 for the top diagnostics. 6 is left front latch switch, 10 is left rear latch switch, 11 is right front latch switch, 20 is hard top installed, no fault. short 1 and 7 for the roll bar. jumping and operating top with low battery can damage controller. I only operate with car running. you can test each switch at the long connector on the side controller with a test light or amp meter. position 1, top closed, windows up, roll bar up, pins 10,22,27,29,30,31 should be open and 16,17,18,19,20,21,23, 24,25,26,28 should be closed. postion 2. with top down and storage compartment open, with windows down and roll bar down all pins will be reversed.

 

Hi, I have had the hardtop off, put it back on and it appears to have clipped in fully, certainly has no movement, is there a way to double check?

 

is the longer wire connector attached to the controller properly and are the contacts clean and unburned? only thing else would be to lift top using pillows or anything padded to be used as spacers to hold the top up off the car, this way you won't have to call a friend to remove. use your top tool and make sure it's fully unlatched. clear and try running diagnostic again. lower top back down and relock. it's unlikely that all those switches are bad.