Hi There, I'm hoping someone can give me some advice. - I am thinking of replacing my 1996 C-Class with a S-Class in the near future. I am considering buying 2000-2002 S-Class with engine 2.8, 3.2, 4.3 or 5.0. After having read on this forum the expense involved in repairing/replacing the air suspension, I wondered if the same suspension is used across all engine sizes or is it just the S500 that has the air suspension?

Bearing in mind the age and likely mileage of the S-Class I am considering, I would prefer to buy a model without this suspension if possible.

Ialso wondered if there's anything I should look forin purchasing an S-Class (other than the usual Full MB SH) ? -Viewed a2002 S500with rust bubbles at rear wheel arch!

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

Hi,
Location UK?
S w220 only comes with Airmatic on all models.
Suspenion problems seem to be linked with ambient temperature.
RUST is a POTENTIAL problem on all MB especially operated in the UK. IMHO it is due to manufacturing process adherence problems BUT MB refute this. Bottom line SOME rust especially wheelarches. Don't rely on the UK 30yr rust warranty. You need to read the small print.
Heavy tyre wear.
3.2 is IMHO the best for fuel but doesn't have that extra performance if you must have it. Top speed still 150 electronic limited.
Fantastic motorway car (low drag and car even crouches closer to the ground at motorway speeds.) Heavy fuel consumption around UK traffic (due to weight)
Rock solid engineering. Poorly put together (some). 200k should be no problem but don't expect to get to 200k+ without some hiccups on the way since Design life "fault free" is most likely 100k.
Can be expensive to repair unless DIY.
Parts available from breakers etc now since car is up to 10 years old and plenty about.
My best car ever for REFINEMENT (ride 16" wheels! and lack of wind noise etc) but a bit of a tank when it comes to twisty B roads. SAFE but a handful. If this is your scene then you are better off with a BMW and low profile tyres.
I'm waiting to get a w221 when i can afford one.

 

Hi snanceki,

Thanks for the quick advice. You are correct I live in the UK (Scotland).

I am really surprised about the suspension in the S-Class and the rust potential (in the UK). I owned a 190Cosworth for 5 years and it did 200K+ (almost trouble free & rust free) unfortunatelya 44 seater coach rammedit and killed the car. I currently have a 1996 230K C-Class whichI've owned for 5 years, which has wheel arches in better condition than the 2002 S-Class I viewed.

I was dissappointed when I learned of the S-Class issues, because I have spent about 6months thinking about which car to go for - C-Class, E-Class, S-Class, CLK, SL, eventually decided on the S-Class, but if there's a chance of itcosting £3000 for suspension repairs, then I think I will re-consider.

After what I read about the car when it first was introduced..'Best car in the world...' I had hoped that it would be a traditional over-engineered Mercedes that would go on for 200K without any major problems. Sounds like this is not the case however.

 

You interpret my words in the blackest possible light!
I used the words POTENTIAL and SOME.

Most suspension problems seem to come from the USA hence my temperature (underhood) comment.
I'm sure you will agree that temperature issues are less likely in the UK, especially Scotland.

Rust IMHO is a Manufacturing process issue. Only some units have this problem.
If the vehicle exhibits rust MB appear to be willing to "cover up" the issue when first tackled (up to about 5/6 years). However when the rust reappears you will find the 30 year warranty invalidated because MB can't assure any paintwork not carried out under "in house" process conditions even when MB Approved / Certified etc!!

However I had mine done, it was returned 3 times till I believed they had at least attempted a reasonably repair (looked OK from exterior but when viewed from under wheelarch no attempt had been made to clean the metal surface before failing to apply any paint!! When i got it back I wax oiled every area that was vulnerable and i am confident that with this additional precaution rust will not be a structural problem although careful attention may be required to address and further blistering.

However that apart I'm very happy with the car. It has given 35k+ miles without a hiccup (now 120k) and I'm sure it will go on to 200k+ without any major problem.

However I'm fastidious about preventative maintenance (brake fluid, coolant quality, suspension joints, exhaust system etc etc. and I've done quite a bit of work to ensure that I do not get caught out at MOT time etc. 3 MOT's so far with no work being required at test time.

Athough MB quality image started to degrade about 2000 and is only just beginning to recover IMHO the engineering remained sound (bullet proof) although the build quality (parts and assembly) reflected low cost worldwise parts procurement and inadequate factory quality procedures.

I worry about the suspension struts but when and if I do encounter problems I will most probably secure a set from a breakers. I will certainly NOT pay the going rate for new parts.

Also watch out for rattling catalysts. These are another mega expensive item.

The deal is all about what you pay for the car, what your expectations are for Cost of Ownership and how DIY orientated you are.

My cost model is to buy "cheap" at an auction after trying to eliminate as many "known" problems as possible, get the car back to a known A1 condition by doing all the work myself, and then keeping the car till I fancy another project at which point I hope I will recover at least most, if not all, of the auction price.

My next project will be a further MB, most likely a current SL.

Note: If you do get an MB get a pre 2001 since the road tax is pre CO2 categories and is rated PLG which is currently considerably less than the current CO2 category for similar new cars, and this difference is likely to increase at the next budget.

Stuart.

 

I really want to know, I've been thinking. Is it possible to replace the air-suspension system with a spring suspension. Also, do the '00-'06 all have the same suspension? Because if the '00-'02 are having probelms than just change em to the newer versions. There has to be a solution to the $2000 repair bills.[:@]

 

It is possible and you will probably find much less expensive to convert to a spring system. At our shop, we often recommend Strutmasters.com conversion kits because the quality of the product makes this a permanent solution. They are also very easy it is to install. All of their conversion kits come with a lifetime warranty, the springs are powder coated American steel coil springs. They don't buy their steel from China or reheat old springs like a lot of other people do to fit their needs (this process typically weakens the spring having a negative impact on the integrity of the steel)

http://www.strutmasters.com/mercedes...parts-s/30.htm

There is a link to the general Mercedes page if you wanted to find your model and see what is available. Hopefully this will help. We have never had one of these kits returned. A lot of customers have worried that the ride will be stiff and uncomfortable, but after the springs have settled in I find the ride to be nice and smooth and just as comfortable than the air ride suspensions. I actually PREFER the spring ride to the air ride. I hope this helps. At least give you a start.

 

This is at the other end of the price range, but didn't the AMG variant use steel springs? Working from memory here.

 

choose W220 models after 2003 its a better year series since most of the defects have been rectified.