2000 S500 air suspension
#11
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@ adam 52396
Looks like your problem was a "simple" compressor worn out issue.
The pump can be taken to pieces so I'm surprised you weren't able to at least make it operational. Sounds as though the issue was the cylinder non return valve which degrade with extended use.
However a new pump isn't too expensive and gives a QA fix.
HOWEVER you must ask why the pump has failed. It is likely because it has been running for extended periods. it is intended to only "top up" the system as air is vented when the car lowers itself + a controlled amount of leakage. Any excess leakage causes it to run for extended periods and wears out.
I've never come across a leaking valve block. Where was it leaking from? The valve block is basically a piece of machined aluminium with 5(?) solenoid valves that control air passage from the pump to the four corners of the car and the resevoir. These solenoids / valves can give problems but generally they are very robust and are "potted" for reliability. If you could hear a "hiss" strikes me one of the pneumatic connections must have been loose etc.
Are you sure that any leak has been eliminated.
Good luck.
Stuart
Looks like your problem was a "simple" compressor worn out issue.
The pump can be taken to pieces so I'm surprised you weren't able to at least make it operational. Sounds as though the issue was the cylinder non return valve which degrade with extended use.
However a new pump isn't too expensive and gives a QA fix.
HOWEVER you must ask why the pump has failed. It is likely because it has been running for extended periods. it is intended to only "top up" the system as air is vented when the car lowers itself + a controlled amount of leakage. Any excess leakage causes it to run for extended periods and wears out.
I've never come across a leaking valve block. Where was it leaking from? The valve block is basically a piece of machined aluminium with 5(?) solenoid valves that control air passage from the pump to the four corners of the car and the resevoir. These solenoids / valves can give problems but generally they are very robust and are "potted" for reliability. If you could hear a "hiss" strikes me one of the pneumatic connections must have been loose etc.
Are you sure that any leak has been eliminated.
Good luck.
Stuart
#12
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Stuart, when I heard the air hiss inside the front passenger wheel well, I assumed just as you did, that I had a loose connection. Upon removing the mudguard, I checked the connections first and found them to be secure. I put my hand around the valve body and squeezed the plastic covering the lower half and I could hear the pressure change. That made it a simple diagnosis for me. A new valve body solved the problem. I saved the old one, it is in my garage somewhere. If you have any interest, I could mail it to you. As far as the pump, it was original so with 120,000 on it, it was just cheap insurance to just replace it.
#13
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Hi,
Interesting response.
Yep the compressors don't last forever.
It very good to offer to send the valve block but I'm in the UK and wouldn't wish to put you to the expense.
However any feedback on where the leak is would be useful since IMHO this is an unusual fault. Usual failure mode is that one of the 5 solenoids fails.
The block has a pressure sensor on it. Maybe it is the diaphram in the sensor?
Basically. Where is the air escaping from?
Inanticipation of your feedback.
Stuart.
Interesting response.
Yep the compressors don't last forever.
It very good to offer to send the valve block but I'm in the UK and wouldn't wish to put you to the expense.
However any feedback on where the leak is would be useful since IMHO this is an unusual fault. Usual failure mode is that one of the 5 solenoids fails.
The block has a pressure sensor on it. Maybe it is the diaphram in the sensor?
Basically. Where is the air escaping from?
Inanticipation of your feedback.
Stuart.
#14
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Stuart, I initially tried to pull off the plastic housing on the valve body to locate the leak as I too was interested to find out where it was leaking from. It would not come off by hand and my curiosity waned as removing the housing proved to be quite difficult. If I get a spare moment I will cut the plastic off and take a peek. Regards, Adam.
#15
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You can simply unscrew the air hose fitting on top of the strut under the hood and blow compressed air into it just enough tolift the car off the wheels replace the fittingsand start the car
Now the fitting is set in the middle of the strut in some sort of silicone seal you need to squirt some soapy water to see if there's an airleak specially around the edges if there's a leak the car will settle back down you'll simplyhave to replace the strut
Check for air leaks even after the car has been turned off and the pump is not working
Now the fitting is set in the middle of the strut in some sort of silicone seal you need to squirt some soapy water to see if there's an airleak specially around the edges if there's a leak the car will settle back down you'll simplyhave to replace the strut
Check for air leaks even after the car has been turned off and the pump is not working
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