The motor in the central lock pump located under the rear passenger seat failed due to a worn bearing (I took it apart to see why it was locking up instead of rotating freely). I couldn't repair the motor so I bought another vaccuum pump and installed it. That was the easy part. Everything went together very simply and very well.

Now for the bad news - it doesn't work at all. The remote keys don't actuate the little lights in the door handles as they should. Nothing at all. I checked my workmanship, took it out, inspected it, re-installed it. Still nothing. As another issue, the front passenger door assist one day just wouldn't work. I pulled the fuse for an hour or so, put the fuse back in, and the closing assist works fine now. Is this something I should do as well with the central lock pump - pull the fuses for a while?

Anyone have this difficulty?

Thanks...

Dave

 

Are you sure the pump was good? see Bretts writeup on closing assist
http://v12uberalles.com/

 

Thanks, Peter! I finally got the thing to work - it was an electrical connection. So, everything works as it should - that is, except for the remote infrared key. The batteries in it are new. It just doesn't actuate either front door. Not sure if it's the key mechanism itself. I can buy one on ebay, but can they be reprogrammed? It is a one button mechanism. Anyone had any experience with this?

Thanks!

Dave

 

Dave
I dont think anything on E bay is reprogramable for MB cars, I ordered remotes for my 92 and they supposedly were coded, you do have to sync them to the car. It was something like push the button then use they key, my wife washed one I left in my pocket, I dried it out and put in new batteries. The remote should unlock everything, both doors trunk and gas door. It should close the roof and windows if you hold the button (you should see a light) when you hold the button in the red window. Do the lights in the hande illuminate when you use the key?

 

Peter,

What I do know is this - before I changed out the central lock pump, the red and green lights in each of the front doors worked when I pressed the button on the key mechanism. After changing out the pump, when I press the button on the key nothing happens - no red or green light in the door handle at all.

Not sure just what this means. Do you think I have to re-synchronize the key? If so, How is that done, I wonder? The key I was looking at on ebay is a mercedes key remote just like mine - one button model, with the key itself already cut> I didn't care about that since I could install my own key blade. Do you think I could synchronize remote to work?

Thanks!

Dave

 

I dont think so, forget the E-Bay crap, otherwise remotes could be kept at the dealer. The selllers say the remotes "work" they all have caviat, the remote works (but not on your car) "The check with your dealer" is their way out
What happens with the key? red/green on handle?
If you changed the battery, you need to resync, do you get a light in the remote, maybe you put the batteris in backwards, the manual tells you how to re-sync

 

The batteries were installed + side upward, as is indicated on the battery cover.

There is no light on the remote unit, other than the red plastic window covering the infrared light transmitter.

There is no activity on the door handle lights when I press the button on the remote.

I haven't a manual, and thus no clue how to re-synchronize the remote - do you know how to do it? Hope so, for my sake.

I lost the companion remote over a year ago, and wish I could get another...

Dave

 

If you push and hold the button, you should see a light come on in the red lens. it is there to show if it works. You can order a new one at your dealer!
The locking pump has three electrical plugs, one 21pin from the doors, the middle 6pin from the ATA (alarm), and the end 6 pin for the infra red. Have you checked your wiring again?
As I recall it was aim the remote at the door handle and lock/unlock the door with a key, but if you get nothing out of the remote it is not working

 

Thank you very much for your good advice, Peter. I was up half the night pondering this problem - fun solving problems like this sometimes, and so first thing this morning I tore my remote apart only to discover that the push button interior had burnt out, actually, rendering the whole business useless. So - that's the problem after all! I'll have to spring for another remote. I ran into something interesting on the net about the remote issue, and it reads like this:

1) In the event ont of the infrared transmitters is lost, that transmitter can be desynchronized, so that the IRCL control module will no longer recognize or respond to it.

2) To de-synchronize the system, ground the IRCL pin in the data link connector (X11/4) for 30-40 seconds with the ignition ON. Model 140 can also be de-synchronized using the impulse counter scan tool or handheld tester (HHT).

3) After de-synchronization, the remaining transmitters must be synchronized as explained in section C above. (press the button on the remote after aiming it at the door, then start the car within 30 seconds, and that synchronizes it). Thus, if only one IR transmitter is lost, only the mechanical locks need replacement to maintain the vehicle's security. NOTE: the system must be re-synchronized after replacing a transmitter.
_____________

Taking all this into consideration, then, it would seem to me that another IR transmitter of the same design could be synchronized to work with a certain car, and the beauty in it is that no one can just aim one at the door and synchronize it, but rather they would have to have access to the car's interior and have an ignition key to start the engine to complete the synchronization process. That in mind, I will look for a cheap used one and try this. If it works, it's just a matter of swapping out my key blade.

What do you think?

I spend the weekend having Mercedes fun. Changed out the blower motor regulator on my '94 S320, installed new sway bar links in the front, and cured a pesky oil leak. I'm now installing new rotors, calipers, pads in my daughter's '86 420SEL and will have that done tomorrow night - the parts come tomorrow. My wife owns an '86 560SL that has had a bothersome tapping coming from the right camshaft area, and over the weekend I opened the valve cover to observe two lobes are worn badly as are the rockers. Those, along with a timing chain, are on order and I will finish that job over the next weekend. I've done the cam bit before in two '86 420SEL's I've owned - always the same camshaft, for some reason. Never the left side.

Thanks again for your interest in my problem and for your help. This is a great site with so many experienced do-it-yourselfers and I learn something new all the time...

Dave

 

I cant add a lot to your analogy, I have been told that only three remotes will work, and if you add another one would fall out. Desync I guess will remove them all and the remaining could be re-initilized. I just dont know, I got one old style with the car and the dealer ordered two new style all three work, except for drowning one and bringing it back to life by drying out! I do miss my garage, and all the heavy duty tools, but high rise living has its atvantages, enjoy