rough idle e320
#32
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Hi A Dalton
I checked the sticker under the hood, and there is nothing that says California version for the emission, on the connector with 8 input, I do not see any LED, just the 8 input holes and the little momentary switch next to it. so I am wondering how can I use the tool you described to get the fault code on my mercedes.
I also have another question, my 1988 300 SE will crank but not start, I checked all the sensors and relays, I replaced the coolant temp sensor, crankshaft position sensor (reference sensor) and still no start. Today I disconnected one of the fuel lines to an injector from the fuel distributor and crank the engine, no fuel was coming out, tried the same with another injector line and no fuel, then I disconnected the cold start injector line and while cranking there was alot of fuel squirting out of the cold start injector line. Can you please explain to me if this means that the fuel distributor is bad or if the plunger inside got stuck, or any other electrical component attached to the fuel distributir is faulty?
again thanks for your help.
I checked the sticker under the hood, and there is nothing that says California version for the emission, on the connector with 8 input, I do not see any LED, just the 8 input holes and the little momentary switch next to it. so I am wondering how can I use the tool you described to get the fault code on my mercedes.
I also have another question, my 1988 300 SE will crank but not start, I checked all the sensors and relays, I replaced the coolant temp sensor, crankshaft position sensor (reference sensor) and still no start. Today I disconnected one of the fuel lines to an injector from the fuel distributor and crank the engine, no fuel was coming out, tried the same with another injector line and no fuel, then I disconnected the cold start injector line and while cranking there was alot of fuel squirting out of the cold start injector line. Can you please explain to me if this means that the fuel distributor is bad or if the plunger inside got stuck, or any other electrical component attached to the fuel distributir is faulty?
again thanks for your help.
#34
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I connected the black to battery ground, red to battery +, and green to pin 3 on the 8 pin socket, pressed the momentary switch and nothing on the LED, does the momentary switch on the car has to be pressed also?
thanks
thanks
#35
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NO
If you have battery power to red and blk and NO led when pressing your momemtary switch, then you have not constructed the tool correctly.
You prob have the polarity of the LED backwards...
To test your tool, Just hook to battery [ +/- ] without using odd color and press the sw. Led should light
Next test is red to pos of battery and odd color to neg. .... led should light without using sw.
If neither of these work , you have made a construction mistake. Most likely, you have reversed the led leads .. they have to be in polarity .. or the led will not work. It is a light emitting DIODE and polarity sensitive.
If you have battery power to red and blk and NO led when pressing your momemtary switch, then you have not constructed the tool correctly.
You prob have the polarity of the LED backwards...
To test your tool, Just hook to battery [ +/- ] without using odd color and press the sw. Led should light
Next test is red to pos of battery and odd color to neg. .... led should light without using sw.
If neither of these work , you have made a construction mistake. Most likely, you have reversed the led leads .. they have to be in polarity .. or the led will not work. It is a light emitting DIODE and polarity sensitive.
#36
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi there
I think I didn't explain it correctly, when the black is connected to battery -ve, red is battery -ve, and press the momentary switch on your design (not on the car) the LED does come on, so the construction is correct, the part where the LED does not light is when I was trying to get the fault code from pin 3 at the 8 hole connector between the engine firewall.
any help is appreciated, and also on my question where no fuel was coming out of the port going to fuel injector while cranking while fuel does come out of the port going to cold start injector.
thanks again
I think I didn't explain it correctly, when the black is connected to battery -ve, red is battery -ve, and press the momentary switch on your design (not on the car) the LED does come on, so the construction is correct, the part where the LED does not light is when I was trying to get the fault code from pin 3 at the 8 hole connector between the engine firewall.
any help is appreciated, and also on my question where no fuel was coming out of the port going to fuel injector while cranking while fuel does come out of the port going to cold start injector.
thanks again
#37
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OK
You do have to have the key in the RUN posistion.
If the led does not light when you press the sw with all conditions met, then your car does not have Flash code retrieve. [ Cal Mandate]
I am assuming your -ve on both battery connections is a TYPO in your previous post??
You do have to have the key in the RUN posistion.
If the led does not light when you press the sw with all conditions met, then your car does not have Flash code retrieve. [ Cal Mandate]
I am assuming your -ve on both battery connections is a TYPO in your previous post??
#38
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you are right, it was a typo
so in case the car is not a california version, then what is the use of the 8 hole connector? is it something to connect a special mercedes tool (Bosch) to read on/off ratio to get diagnostics?
thanks for your input.
so in case the car is not a california version, then what is the use of the 8 hole connector? is it something to connect a special mercedes tool (Bosch) to read on/off ratio to get diagnostics?
thanks for your input.
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WaBenzer
Mercedes C Class
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08-26-2008 05:41 PM