Driver side brakelight dilemma
#1
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The instrument panel displayed "defective lamp" -light, and it turned out to me d-side brakelight. Changed the bulb, it didn't go away. Then I bought a new socket -the pink one- and even that didn't help. Then I just "played" with it, sprayed some WD40, and the lamp worked for 2 hours. Took i to the mechanic, I explained the problem/ what I have done so far. He did basically the same thing -just played with the socket & bulb. It worked for half a day. Took it back there, he said I need to replace the whole taillight unit.
Anybody know anything about this?
Anybody know anything about this?
#2
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SLK?
However common to other MB models.
Known issue. Recall in place in the USA.
Basically excess heat melts the lamp body to lamp holder so that the electrical contact is not as good as it should be.
If a piece of wire is soldered between the bulb holder and the circuit board on the lamp body all will be sorted but the only Quality Assurred repair is a new lamp body / housing / cluster.
recall does not extend to Europe although problem exists to a slightly lesser degree but I guess you are in the USA because the bulb holder is pink. black in Europe due to different "E" bulb vs "DOT"
Lots of posts about this on the forum.
Stuart
However common to other MB models.
Known issue. Recall in place in the USA.
Basically excess heat melts the lamp body to lamp holder so that the electrical contact is not as good as it should be.
If a piece of wire is soldered between the bulb holder and the circuit board on the lamp body all will be sorted but the only Quality Assurred repair is a new lamp body / housing / cluster.
recall does not extend to Europe although problem exists to a slightly lesser degree but I guess you are in the USA because the bulb holder is pink. black in Europe due to different "E" bulb vs "DOT"
Lots of posts about this on the forum.
Stuart
#3
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You might try this: Clean all the contact surfaces on the bulb housing with electronic contact cleaner (Radio Shack, etc.). Insert the bulb housing w/ bulb and rotate to seated position, THEN rotate backwards about 10 degrees. This gives a new set of contact points which may help. Of course, YMMV. Good luck.
#4
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If you take out the light and tin the contact with solder or slightly offset and not tighten the bulb it will work just fine.
By the way Wallmart of all places carries these bulbs and cheap.
At the same time you can seal the gap between the lamp and trunk that allows water to seep into the trunk whenever you open it.
By the way Wallmart of all places carries these bulbs and cheap.
At the same time you can seal the gap between the lamp and trunk that allows water to seep into the trunk whenever you open it.
#5
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This seems to be a tough one. I tried everything you suggested above -thank you all- but not avail. The problem just won't disappear. I gotta say that it's somewhat unclear to me which part of the lamp body exactly should be soldered, but I tried to make all contacs better with tin.
From other hand, this is the only problem I have with my wagon.
From other hand, this is the only problem I have with my wagon.
#7
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Snanceki:
My message to you doesn't show in "sent" -box, so Iam assuming you didn't get it.
Anyway, I would apperciate any pictures, if you have any. If PM doesn't work, perhaps you can link the pictures here?
Or, use my email dustbowlmail@yahoo.com
Thanks.
My message to you doesn't show in "sent" -box, so Iam assuming you didn't get it.
Anyway, I would apperciate any pictures, if you have any. If PM doesn't work, perhaps you can link the pictures here?
Or, use my email dustbowlmail@yahoo.com
Thanks.
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Scuddog
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07-09-2007 06:26 PM