I just picked up a 97 e420 from an insurance auction. Geico totalled it out for a minor front end for year and mileage. I assume it was running when it was wrecked but it will not start. I had to get a key for it from the dealership - $265! It fits and unlocks/locks the car but when I turn it - nothing. The battery was dead so I dropped in a smaller but nearly new 660 cranking amp battery from my vanagon. No Go. Tried jumping it with another car and still no. Voltage reads 13.5v at the terminals. Seems like that should be enough but...? I also read the codes with a code reader and there were no error codes.

The dealer said it would start with the key and they could program the alarm but I'm not sure if that's true -- I don't have a manual with it either.

Does anybody know if this has an immobilzer, or some sort of limiter not allowing voltage to be sent to the starter because of not enough cranking amperage? Seems like the voltage should be fine. Anything else?

 

does the starter make any noise? does it click once or several times? If it clicks once you have a bad starter.

 

Its either your starter or the immobilizer problem .. get the benz to the nearest benz dealer to reset the immobilizer problem.

 

Watch the blinking lights on your rear view mirror.. if it blinks red it will not start ... if it blinks green the your good to go .. -basically its immobilizer issue. Ive come across to it before

Good luck ya...

 

If you purchased that key from a dealer (which I assume is the case) then it "shouldnt" be an immobilizer issue. IIRC that system is made with 8 original keys all married to the immobilizer. 6 master keys (ones with remote) and 2 valet keys. 3 are given at the time of the original purchase and as time goes on you may order the rest from MB. If you somehow misplace all 8 keys then your ignition cylinder and immobilizer have to be replaced.


So on a different note what is happening when you turn the key to ignition? is the cluster lighting up? Also putting a multimeter on your ignition wires will give you a better idea on how to narrow down your no start issue. Post back if you want wiring colors. Should be easy to verify the wires, drop the bottom shroud and you can find the heavy thick ignition wires either to your left or by the ignition cylinder itself.

 

@Wiitodd You seem more familiar with this than me, but if the starter is getting power (clicks when you turn the key) wouldnt that alone eliminate any immobilizer issue? I use common sense first when trying to repair my E420. Now if the starter clicks once it is getting power at the appropriate time but it's not spinning (bad starter) If it clicks several times it is still getting power when demanded just not enough (low or bad battery). If it does absolutely nothing when you turn the key and you know you have a FULLY charged battery..then it could possibly be the immobilizer?..correct? Wiitodd; when does the immobilizer come into play, its function and location please?...I know how old this post is but it's always nice on forums to try and throw out some suggestions no matter the age of the post...because it will help someone down the road. I was looking this starter issue up for my car ..but common sense remedies led me to replace my starter..should know soon if I was right. Thanks

 

To answer your question, yes and no. Immobilizer can either cut crank or fuel. In this case it cuts fuel. I know this because when I was doing a remote start in my E320 i had a hell off a time placing the rfid chip in the bypass module. Car would crank but not turn over. There could be several things that cause a no start condition. Some one here mentioned the flashing red light on the rear vuew mirror, indicating either immobilizer or factory alarm is telling the car not to start. For a car to work (pardon the lanuguage) but you need it to suck, bang, blow. Suck: is the car getting gas into the engine , bang: is there spark, blow : anything blocking the engine exhaust? Also could be a case of bad ignition cylinder, however not very likely but it does happen. It is something you should eliminate first before going crazy looking at other parts. With a meter you can verify that the car is sending appropriate 12v where they need to go. Alp ignition wires and starter wires need to be fired at the right times. I remember that during my experience i missed an elusive second starter wire also driving me crazy for a bit. If this didnt answer your question or if you have another let me know.




Btw im not proof reading this since im replying on my small phone keyboard and i suffer from fat finger syndrome, so forgive any typos

 

I just found my own starting issue and it straightened out the rear headrest release as well..On the passanger side (starter side) under an aluminium cover (that is basically just a bulge)..behind the wheel there is a wire that gives the main power (I guess) to the starter (amongst other things)..mine had rotted through right at the connector $3.00 fix.

 

My E-420 mercedes will crank but will not start. Do i have an imobilizer that blocks fuel or maybe the spark to the plugs? Is there such a thing as spark imobilization?