Tried to register my 300e a few months ago here are my results:
At 15Miles per hour: co2=15%,o2=.2%,HC(PPM)=75, CO.27%, NO=869*(PPM)
At 25Miles per hour: co2=15%,o2=.1%,HC(PPM)=47, CO.21%, NO=577*(PPM)

This (*) was a fail measurement...so I got the catalytic converter changed and this was the newest readout

At 15Miles per hour: co2=13.5%, o2=2.3%, HC(PPM)=285*, CO=01%,NO=1890*(PPM)
At 25Miles per hour: co2=13.2%, o2=2.7%, HC(PPM)=235*, CO=.00%,NO=1963*(PPM)

On both tests, the RPMs were 1745(at 15mph) and 1430(at 25mph).

*Denotes Failing Levels

Any idea how I could have my catalytic converter replaced, and the levels go up. Where do I go from here?

My car went to a polluter to a gross polluter...if I keep getting the run around...I may be forced to buy a honda...and I vowed never to do that after driving my favorite car - the 300e.

Thanks for your help...insincerely smoggy[:'(]

 

lets see...

when you replace the catalyst, the hydrocarbon goes up!

does you car got before and after O2 sensor? it can't be possibly that the sensor wiring was connected upstream to downstream and vice versa?
i was thinking that when the O2 sensor senses that the mixture becomes lean, it enriches the injection further more. but this is just a speculation.

the best way to do is to adjust the carbon monoxide from mixture adjusting screw and lean it out till the test is done.

it is located right in front of the fuel distributor.



[IMG]local://upfiles/1/F5C6E3C85683492FB2DF0ABE028CECCD.jpg[/IMG]

 

I realize the hydrocarbon would increase...but why would all levels increase except CO2? Should I replace my Oxygen sensor (which was replaced about 30,000 miles ago)? Is there any way I can get around this without adjusting the lambda control?

I have estimates to replace the entire smog system, but such repairs would be in excess of $1400 -- after repairs, it may still fail the test. At such a price, I could probably find another car with fewer miles AND CAN PASS A CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS TEST, for less money.

Any help would be appreciated...I have all the tools (including a lift) in my workshop...but without a smog tester, I am stuck....

 

also the oxygen goes up which indicates a slight vacuum leak or leanment and reduces the carbon dioxide.

it can be only 1 cylinder which contributes to the high reading.

engine is shaking at idle or any slight misfire?

even a very small presence of oil entering the combustion chamber can bring the Hc reading high.

 

I'm curious as to why you would jump directly to replacing the catalyst?
I've always learned that NOx failures are caused by high combustion temps and pressures,
inoperative egr,and LASTLY,the catalyst.I've seen so many waste time and money on a new catalyst
ONLY to have the vehicle fail AGAIN.i thought that the vehicle should be diagnosed FIRST,problems repaired,THEN
replace the catalyst LAST.Just my opinion.

Also i noticed that on the first test,O2 percent was ok,after the catalyst replacement,O2 percent went up
to 2+ percent along with elevated and failing HC levels, indicating that the engine's 'pumping air' or leaning out.
i'm saying it's leaned out at the second/after cat test because comparing the CO levels,before the cat replacement,CO was NOT
ideal at more than 1%,after the catalyst replacement,CO % went down - leaned out and/or the new cat does a good job of 'cleaning up'
CO emissions , but not HC and NOx emissions , it seems the new cat is also releasing more O2 than storing it, a three way catalytic converter
is supposed to clean up HC and CO as well as NOx and at the same time absorb and release Oxygen - this is supposed to happen ideally
during engine operation where the air-fuel ratio goes back and forth between rich and lean.