190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
#21
09-21-2005, 02:35 AM
RE: 190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
check your exhaust system also if it is blocked.
some cars got this problem.
some cars got this problem.
#22
09-21-2005, 05:20 AM
RE: 190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
Make sure that you don't check for spark at the same time as you do sleepwalkers fuel test. Or Kaboom!!!
It is correct that your car did not have a factory alarm. None of them had remote locking back in 1987. There is no easy way to check an aftermarket alarm, because they are all different especially ones which don't cut out the starter, but use other means of immobilising. These alarms are very rare and if you think you may have one of these I would suggest getting an auto electrician to check this.
The cold running issue you had may also indicate a problem with the overvoltage relay, or even the fuse in the relay. But I don't believe that it would cause your current problem but could still be worth a check.
The exhaust suggestion is also a good valid suggestion from sleepwalker.
It is correct that your car did not have a factory alarm. None of them had remote locking back in 1987. There is no easy way to check an aftermarket alarm, because they are all different especially ones which don't cut out the starter, but use other means of immobilising. These alarms are very rare and if you think you may have one of these I would suggest getting an auto electrician to check this.
The cold running issue you had may also indicate a problem with the overvoltage relay, or even the fuse in the relay. But I don't believe that it would cause your current problem but could still be worth a check.
The exhaust suggestion is also a good valid suggestion from sleepwalker.
#23
09-22-2005, 02:20 AM
RE: 190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
There is plenty of fuel spray coming out of the fuel injectors. I tried pulling a couple and they both seem to have the same amount of fuel spraying as I crank the engine.
#25
09-23-2005, 02:17 AM
RE: 190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
looked at this thread. What could have happened if the owner before me happened to put the wrong gas in it? I had only owned the car for a couple of weeks when this started. Some of the symptoms before mine got real bad matches a lot of the below ones.....
ORIGINAL: rayhalks
Hello All,
I have read alot of threads regarding this and have checked alot of this out.
89 300E, 62K, regular service:
Car started hard, need to give it gas to keep it running. Then once I put it into gear it wants to stall. Once it was running, say a mile or so, car was fine. I started having this problem when my dumb head put 87 octane in it. Since then I have ran cleaner and 5 tanks of 93. Still was happening. So I checked the car out. New plugs, distributor and rotor, checked plug wires - fine. Then I noticed that the vacuum hose was pulled from the fuel regulator valve, hose that goes from rubber house of air cleaner housing to valve cover. Reconnected that. Now when I start the car it runs real rough, shaking at idle and at 3000 RPM for a minute then once I take off smooth. But when I come to a stop, it idles a little eratic, 500 - 700 rpm, almost like the AC is kicking in, but it is not. I then came home and checked the OVP. I unplugged it and started the car. Car Started the same as it did before when hot, but cold start I couldn't get it started. Plugged the OVP back in and the started cold and started but same as the above problem. I then notice that the CO adjust on top of the throttle body, the long aluminum column that goes up into the air cleaner housing, had some weird drill marks near the top. The housing itself has a crack in it. Does air come in this housing or is it just for the hex screw adjust. When I put a hex down it it pushes down on the butterfly but I can't seam to turn the screw. What size hex is this?
Anyway, it seams to get worse with the more days that go by. Definetly worse once I repluged in the vacuum to the fuel regulator.
Any suggestions will be appreciated. I will post the solution once I find it also. thanks
More: Violent, one time, shake on cold start is a product of a low idle. It never did it until I reconnected the fuel regulator valve vacuum hose yesterday. I have checked for vacuum leaks and when I spray starting fluid under the air cleaner cover it goes up in idle some and idles great for a minute then back to eratic. Is this due to the crack in in the CO adjust housing. Is this crack a source of vacuum leak? It seams I fixed one problem and really exposed another.
When the car stalls in D while driving and then stopping is a result of low idle. It drops to 600 RPM at a stop then will just shut down, like I turned the key off, no rough idle then stall. I simply double foot it and gently press the accelertor to maintain 600 RPM.
It starts easily but idles rough, need to flutter the accelerator to keep it going then brake and accelerate at the same time to put it into Drive or Reverse. Once rolling though, from 600 RMP and up, the car runs great.
Hello All,
I have read alot of threads regarding this and have checked alot of this out.
89 300E, 62K, regular service:
Car started hard, need to give it gas to keep it running. Then once I put it into gear it wants to stall. Once it was running, say a mile or so, car was fine. I started having this problem when my dumb head put 87 octane in it. Since then I have ran cleaner and 5 tanks of 93. Still was happening. So I checked the car out. New plugs, distributor and rotor, checked plug wires - fine. Then I noticed that the vacuum hose was pulled from the fuel regulator valve, hose that goes from rubber house of air cleaner housing to valve cover. Reconnected that. Now when I start the car it runs real rough, shaking at idle and at 3000 RPM for a minute then once I take off smooth. But when I come to a stop, it idles a little eratic, 500 - 700 rpm, almost like the AC is kicking in, but it is not. I then came home and checked the OVP. I unplugged it and started the car. Car Started the same as it did before when hot, but cold start I couldn't get it started. Plugged the OVP back in and the started cold and started but same as the above problem. I then notice that the CO adjust on top of the throttle body, the long aluminum column that goes up into the air cleaner housing, had some weird drill marks near the top. The housing itself has a crack in it. Does air come in this housing or is it just for the hex screw adjust. When I put a hex down it it pushes down on the butterfly but I can't seam to turn the screw. What size hex is this?
Anyway, it seams to get worse with the more days that go by. Definetly worse once I repluged in the vacuum to the fuel regulator.
Any suggestions will be appreciated. I will post the solution once I find it also. thanks
More: Violent, one time, shake on cold start is a product of a low idle. It never did it until I reconnected the fuel regulator valve vacuum hose yesterday. I have checked for vacuum leaks and when I spray starting fluid under the air cleaner cover it goes up in idle some and idles great for a minute then back to eratic. Is this due to the crack in in the CO adjust housing. Is this crack a source of vacuum leak? It seams I fixed one problem and really exposed another.
When the car stalls in D while driving and then stopping is a result of low idle. It drops to 600 RPM at a stop then will just shut down, like I turned the key off, no rough idle then stall. I simply double foot it and gently press the accelertor to maintain 600 RPM.
It starts easily but idles rough, need to flutter the accelerator to keep it going then brake and accelerate at the same time to put it into Drive or Reverse. Once rolling though, from 600 RMP and up, the car runs great.
#28
09-30-2005, 01:00 AM
RE: 190E 1987 Starts but won't run HELP PLEASE!
The car has been fixed. I finally broke down and took it into a Benz repair shop. The fuel distributor was apparently clogged with something the mechanic called "black and nasty". When he managed to clean this part out, he still couldn't get a great flow through the fuel injectors so he replaced them. This fixed the car and it is now running again. However, there car is very sluggish upon depressing the accelerator but releases fine when it hits about 2000rpm. The mechanic said that he felt the exact same thing during test drive and thinks the fuel distributor may need replacement to get this problem fixed, estimating a repair of $800-$1400. Any thoughts out there?
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