how hard is it to replace the bulb behind the speedometer?

 

remove the instrument cluster.

 

Also, you need special tools to remove the pod, the pod is a press fit, and you can buy the "pullers" but I did it and to be honest I wouldn't try it again, I was lucky as I took my time, and didn't rip the surround. and didn't remove the steering wheel which is part of the factory R&R. There are "notches" barely visible on the surround where the tools go, one right side one left, it takes a bit of effort to get it loose, but with the steering wheel in place and all the way down, you still have to work out the pod around the wheel. Plus if you DIY replace all the bulbs, if one is out the rest are sure to follow.

 

thanks for the help c280 wizard! sounds like i should leave that one to a professional