Electric windows nightmare
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm hoping some people here have had this problem and might save me a lot of trouble if you've already figured it out. I have an '86 190D and starting today I have no electric window control. It started last week when the front passenger and rear driver window stopped working (on the same circut) and this week the front drivers side and rear passenger went out as well. i checked the fuses and they're fine. I can pull off the windows toggle switch and hotwire the window motor with a wire straight from the battery and put them up and down. Has anyone seen this before? Why would both sides go out so close to each other but not at the exact same time?
I know these things have electric window problems and hopefully someone can shed some light on this. The sunroof doesn't work either and I don't care as much about that, but I need some air though, it's June and I'm dying here! (the AC doesn't work either of course![Wink](https://mercedesforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Thanks,
Nat
I know these things have electric window problems and hopefully someone can shed some light on this. The sunroof doesn't work either and I don't care as much about that, but I need some air though, it's June and I'm dying here! (the AC doesn't work either of course
![Wink](https://mercedesforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Thanks,
Nat
#2
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Hi Nat.
Your electric windows also have a "contact relay" in the fuse panel. The relay is locatedunder the hood, on the drivers side, behind the fender well, under the blue cover, and toward the back of the panel. Its a small 1x1x1 black plastic cube with contacts on the bottom. Check those relays, or get someone to check them. It wouldn't hurt to have a spare in your tool box too.
Blue
Your electric windows also have a "contact relay" in the fuse panel. The relay is locatedunder the hood, on the drivers side, behind the fender well, under the blue cover, and toward the back of the panel. Its a small 1x1x1 black plastic cube with contacts on the bottom. Check those relays, or get someone to check them. It wouldn't hurt to have a spare in your tool box too.
Blue
#3
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Hi Blue,
Thanks for the response. I did find some relays by the fuse box. They are in two separate locations though. There is a separate relay box infront of the main fuse box. It has a black cover and has a blue 1"x1" relay in it plugged into the "C" slot. The actual fuse box has two 1"x1" black relays above the fuses and one larger maybe 1"x2" relay. Any idea of which one of these I would be looking for?
Thanks again!
Nat
Thanks for the response. I did find some relays by the fuse box. They are in two separate locations though. There is a separate relay box infront of the main fuse box. It has a black cover and has a blue 1"x1" relay in it plugged into the "C" slot. The actual fuse box has two 1"x1" black relays above the fuses and one larger maybe 1"x2" relay. Any idea of which one of these I would be looking for?
Thanks again!
Nat
#5
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Thanks again for the advice. The picture is great. So now that I know which one it is, how do I test it? I have a multimeter. Is there a way to check with that or should I just take it somewhere? A car shop?
Thanks,
Nat
Thanks,
Nat
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok, I know the books are'nt any good.
You will need:
1) 1 standard 9volt battery
2) 2 or 4 alligator/jumper wires
3) multimeter
I know it sounds funny, but I use a 9 volt to check almost all the components, mainly because it does the job, but it doesn't have enough volts or amperes to smoke anything.
The relay probably has a diagram printed on it.
Set you meter to"ohms"
Connect the meter leads to #30, and #87 (contacts)
connect a couple of jumper/alligator wires to the 9 volt battery.
connect the 9 volt battery wires to #85, and #86.(coil)
when you make that last connection, the relay should "click" and the ohm change on the meter.
then move the meter leads to #30 and the "other" #87, (contacts)
One 87 is normally open, the other is normally closed, so they work opposite of each other.
Blue
You will need:
1) 1 standard 9volt battery
2) 2 or 4 alligator/jumper wires
3) multimeter
I know it sounds funny, but I use a 9 volt to check almost all the components, mainly because it does the job, but it doesn't have enough volts or amperes to smoke anything.
The relay probably has a diagram printed on it.
Set you meter to"ohms"
Connect the meter leads to #30, and #87 (contacts)
connect a couple of jumper/alligator wires to the 9 volt battery.
connect the 9 volt battery wires to #85, and #86.(coil)
when you make that last connection, the relay should "click" and the ohm change on the meter.
then move the meter leads to #30 and the "other" #87, (contacts)
One 87 is normally open, the other is normally closed, so they work opposite of each other.
Blue
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I got it hooked up to a 9v and it clicks when connected. when I apply the meter leads to #30 and #87 it reads in the teens. When I apply it to #30 and #87a it shows nothing. I'm assuming that means one direction doesn't work? If one doesn't work does that stop the other from working too? When it broke, the window went down and couldn't go back up or down any further either.
Thanks, your help has been much appreciated.
Nat
Thanks, your help has been much appreciated.
Nat
#8
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Ok here is how it is supposed to work.
When the battery voltage is applied to the coil,
the signal sent from the meter to #30 will switch from#87(1) tothe other #87(2).
So with NO voltage to the coil, #30 and #87(1) will get a reading...
and #87(2) will be open. (no signal)
But WITH voltage to the coil, #30and #87(2) will get a reading....
and #87(1) will be open. (no signal)
So you see, it switches from one connection to the other, when you apply voltage. If it is doing this, the part is working.
I'll make a better drawing... But look don't disappear on us. We will need YOUR help to keep the 190s alive forever!
Blue
[IMG]local://upfiles/10968/2500040957594EFEB1DFE407CD5BDA1E.jpg[/IMG]
When the battery voltage is applied to the coil,
the signal sent from the meter to #30 will switch from#87(1) tothe other #87(2).
So with NO voltage to the coil, #30 and #87(1) will get a reading...
and #87(2) will be open. (no signal)
But WITH voltage to the coil, #30and #87(2) will get a reading....
and #87(1) will be open. (no signal)
So you see, it switches from one connection to the other, when you apply voltage. If it is doing this, the part is working.
I'll make a better drawing... But look don't disappear on us. We will need YOUR help to keep the 190s alive forever!
Blue
[IMG]local://upfiles/10968/2500040957594EFEB1DFE407CD5BDA1E.jpg[/IMG]
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