DIY: Steering wheel removal, Access stalks, Correct loose stalks
#1
06-10-2006, 11:29 AM
DIY: Steering wheel removal, Access stalks, Correct loose stalks
The turn signal/cruise control stalks were loose on my 1999 E300d and would rotate every time I used the turn signal. Sleepwalker pointed out that the problematic part was the collar around the steering column where a machine screw had loosened.
Diagram:
I ended up removing the air bag, steering wheel and various other components including the cruise control and turn signal stalks.
Two tools are needed: A 10mm hex driver and the 3” long T30 Torx driver. I obtained each of them for less than $4. My local auto parts store (or Sears) had the hex driver and I found a guy on eBay (in FL) that had the TORX bit.
Lisle 33920 is a brake caliper tool for some GM vehicles and not to be confused with a 3/8” hex tool.
Use these two threads for additional reference and detail:
http://mercedesshop.com/shopforum/sh...d.php?p=408731 http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=110340
(I’ll note that some of my components are different compared to the parts shown in these other two threads. However, I believe the procedure is virtually identical regardless of model year.)
Details:
Note: Most will suggest disconnecting the battery as your first step since you will be working with the airbag. I did not. Proceed with caution.
Steering wheel needs to be fully extended (out) prior to starting permitting access to the two airbag retaining screws on the rear side of the steering wheel.
Arrows pointing to the TORX screws:
Airbag is released by pulling yellow connector straight off - - there are no tabs that need to be released. Remove the two clips shown below:
As the others have noted, the 10mm bolt holding the steering wheel is extremely difficult to remove:
I am using this long breaker to remove the 10mm bolt:
Bolt removed, it appeared to have LocTite on it:
You need to mark the spline and the hub which will permit you to restore the proper position when you re-install the steering wheel. Mine already had indications on it.
Steering wheel pulls off easily revealing this:
After removing the two screws (seen in above picture), you’ll see the view below. You now have access to the turn signal module which is on a short connector and needs to be removed. You need to remove the cruise control stalk which is on a VERY long cable that must connect under the dash (??).
Note how all the cables are threaded and where they run. You’re going to have to put this back together in a few minutes! Remove the three screws shown below - - everything will come apart at this stage.
You’ll need to fully retract the electric steering column at this point so you can slip the plastic shroud off and gain access to the machine screwing which tightens the collar.
Plastic shroud slips off revealing the errant screw, here it is:
I removed it and there was evidence of LocTite. I applied some fresh LocTite, re-installed the screw, and corrected the orientation of the collar so the two tips were located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. Screw was tightened. Assembly is simply reverse order.
This job took exactly 1 hour with a 10 minute break. While it looks complex, it really wasn’t. The dis-assembly is logical; there are no odd little pieces or any “tricks” needed.
I’ll re-iterate that removal of the 10mm nut holding the steering wheel place is the most difficult aspect of this job.
Diagram:
I ended up removing the air bag, steering wheel and various other components including the cruise control and turn signal stalks.
Two tools are needed: A 10mm hex driver and the 3” long T30 Torx driver. I obtained each of them for less than $4. My local auto parts store (or Sears) had the hex driver and I found a guy on eBay (in FL) that had the TORX bit.
Lisle 33920 is a brake caliper tool for some GM vehicles and not to be confused with a 3/8” hex tool.
Use these two threads for additional reference and detail:
http://mercedesshop.com/shopforum/sh...d.php?p=408731 http://forums.mbworld.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=110340
(I’ll note that some of my components are different compared to the parts shown in these other two threads. However, I believe the procedure is virtually identical regardless of model year.)
Details:
Note: Most will suggest disconnecting the battery as your first step since you will be working with the airbag. I did not. Proceed with caution.
Steering wheel needs to be fully extended (out) prior to starting permitting access to the two airbag retaining screws on the rear side of the steering wheel.
Arrows pointing to the TORX screws:
Airbag is released by pulling yellow connector straight off - - there are no tabs that need to be released. Remove the two clips shown below:
As the others have noted, the 10mm bolt holding the steering wheel is extremely difficult to remove:
I am using this long breaker to remove the 10mm bolt:
Bolt removed, it appeared to have LocTite on it:
You need to mark the spline and the hub which will permit you to restore the proper position when you re-install the steering wheel. Mine already had indications on it.
Steering wheel pulls off easily revealing this:
After removing the two screws (seen in above picture), you’ll see the view below. You now have access to the turn signal module which is on a short connector and needs to be removed. You need to remove the cruise control stalk which is on a VERY long cable that must connect under the dash (??).
Note how all the cables are threaded and where they run. You’re going to have to put this back together in a few minutes! Remove the three screws shown below - - everything will come apart at this stage.
You’ll need to fully retract the electric steering column at this point so you can slip the plastic shroud off and gain access to the machine screwing which tightens the collar.
Plastic shroud slips off revealing the errant screw, here it is:
I removed it and there was evidence of LocTite. I applied some fresh LocTite, re-installed the screw, and corrected the orientation of the collar so the two tips were located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. Screw was tightened. Assembly is simply reverse order.
This job took exactly 1 hour with a 10 minute break. While it looks complex, it really wasn’t. The dis-assembly is logical; there are no odd little pieces or any “tricks” needed.
I’ll re-iterate that removal of the 10mm nut holding the steering wheel place is the most difficult aspect of this job.
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