C230 - 1997 model , engine strange sound when starts
My engine makes a sound like a saw, and pretty loud when I start the engine COLD. It starts after 3-5 sec. after I start the engine and it takes about 30 seconds to stop, then everything its normal. The sound will never start anymore while driving or after a short break stop if the engine is warm. Can somebody tell me what could be the problem and how much will cost me to fix it? ( The engine has almost 200K) Thanks in advance and kind regards!
ORIGINAL: snanceki
Could be an air leak in the cold start intake system.
Is the C230 a Kompressor?
Difficult to tell without hearing the noise.
Stuart
Could be an air leak in the cold start intake system.
Is the C230 a Kompressor?
Difficult to tell without hearing the noise.
Stuart
It is not a Kompressor, it`s just C230 . As soon as the engine will be cold, I will record the sound and upload it so you will be able to listen it.
I also putthis post in the Mercedes C Classsection, and Mr. Jimmy (chassis221)wrote: "maybe air leaking from the air injection pump could be a bad hose or bad airpump. the airpump usually turns on on a car start. just a guess from the desription you gave" and also..."the airpump im talking about is the pump on the engine for emmisions control. it has a rubber hose that goes to the engine to supply air sometimes the hose crack. if the problem persists you could get a check engine light. of course thats only if thats the problem you have."
When I bought the car I didn`t had this noise (I buy it in Dec. 06) , had "only" a misfire on cylinder no.2 but was fixed and... I guess theseller fixed the check engine light not to light anymore , not even when I start the engine... [:@]but after we fixed the misfire problem, I didn`t worryed anymore about the Instrument Panel. But now I love it so much that I want to fix everything on it ...
I recorded the sound and is available at this links: http://upload2.net/page/download/0J1a6k4KAlVW2QX/VOICE006.MP3.html and http://upload2.net/page/download/2T1nbZFDSywWbbS/VOICE007.MP3.html Has two parts, the second one iswhen the noise stops. I hope will help you. Thanks!
Hi Kris,
Thanks to the wonders of the Internet I now have a better idea of what might be going on.
Firstly I go along with Chassis221. He is referring to the Secondary air injection pump. I'm not that familar with the 4 cylinder so was a little vague about the actual source since I wasn't sure the 230 has a secondary pump in your market
Next step is to do a bit of listening with a bit of rubber hose in order to locate a little precisely where the noise is coming from. (Observe usual safety precautions. Fingers ties etc when observing the engine whilst it is running.)
Parts of the recording remind me of a "zing" whereby a rotor tip is fouling the casing or similar. The secondary pump is electric and is usually only on during startup to warm up the cat so it fits the issue.
The noise doesn't sound too much like an air leak. Could be vacuum rather than pressure but I'm not convinced from the recording although this remains the most likely issue especially since it disappears after initial warmup..
If my rotational foul diagnosis is near the mark it could be the alternator, water pump, PAS, belt tensioner etc (BUT NOT THE KOMPRESSOR!) but why does the noise stop after warm up since they continue to rotate.. How long does the noise remain for? 15 secs? 1 min, 5 mins? etc.
So your CEL doesn't come on when you turn the ignition on. It should. For peace of mind you need to fix this. It could be the LED (bulb) but it is possible on USA spec to turn the CEL OFF!! in the software. You need to go to the dealer to get this changed / checked out. However the CEL only tells you that a code has been set in the ECU so if you read the ECU memory (need an OBDII scanner) you will discover if any codes have been set.
If you can locate the noise more precisely send us a photo and maybe we can help further.
Stuart
Thanks to the wonders of the Internet I now have a better idea of what might be going on.
Firstly I go along with Chassis221. He is referring to the Secondary air injection pump. I'm not that familar with the 4 cylinder so was a little vague about the actual source since I wasn't sure the 230 has a secondary pump in your market
Next step is to do a bit of listening with a bit of rubber hose in order to locate a little precisely where the noise is coming from. (Observe usual safety precautions. Fingers ties etc when observing the engine whilst it is running.)
Parts of the recording remind me of a "zing" whereby a rotor tip is fouling the casing or similar. The secondary pump is electric and is usually only on during startup to warm up the cat so it fits the issue.
The noise doesn't sound too much like an air leak. Could be vacuum rather than pressure but I'm not convinced from the recording although this remains the most likely issue especially since it disappears after initial warmup..
If my rotational foul diagnosis is near the mark it could be the alternator, water pump, PAS, belt tensioner etc (BUT NOT THE KOMPRESSOR!) but why does the noise stop after warm up since they continue to rotate.. How long does the noise remain for? 15 secs? 1 min, 5 mins? etc.
So your CEL doesn't come on when you turn the ignition on. It should. For peace of mind you need to fix this. It could be the LED (bulb) but it is possible on USA spec to turn the CEL OFF!! in the software. You need to go to the dealer to get this changed / checked out. However the CEL only tells you that a code has been set in the ECU so if you read the ECU memory (need an OBDII scanner) you will discover if any codes have been set.
If you can locate the noise more precisely send us a photo and maybe we can help further.
Stuart
The noise starts after 5-7 sec. after I start the engine and remain for about 1 minute. I will take the car at a repair center tonight for a diagnosis, and I hope tomorrow eveningI will be able to post the result.
I left my car last night to a Auto Repair Center specialized in Mercedes, the mechanic told me that is the noise is made by "Secondary Air Pump" and needs to be replaced also the valve that goes with it. He said if I want to save some money to try by myself to repair the pump, because could have some water in it. Do you think I could take the pump out by myself to try tofix it (clean it inside and lube the rings) OR to buy a rebuild one for about $430 (new is $670) and take it to the mechanic and he will replace it in a couple hours ( + about $160).
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