I just picked up a 2000 S430 with 44k, a real cream puff and have been replacing/flushing all fuilds. The last owner only put 5K in three years.

Q. I read that the air suspension has a filter cartridge that can be replaced. Does anyone know where it's located and how difficult is it to replace. ie. special tools etc.

I'm strongly considering getting the service manual on CD since I have lots of tools and a comfy heated garage to work in needless to say the money to be save$$$. This is my first Benz and I love it.

Used Amsoil 5-40 engine oil and a K&N filter cartridge.

The tranny flush will be scheduled upon my returntripfrom Floridathat begins next week 4/10 behind the wheel is this luxo machine. I'll post issues if any.

For anyone wondering I did fork over the extra cash for a 48month 50k extended warrantee. I looked up those air shocks @ $1,400 a piece....ouch.

Thanks for the replies.

 

The Airmatic suspension does have a filter. it is located immediately adjacent to the air pump which is mounted in the RH front wing area below the headlamp. You need to remove under shielding to gain access.
Although the filter is changeable when I changed mine at 100k miles and subsequently cut in in half to have a look it really didn't look as though it needed replacing. It isn't on any service schedule that I am aware of. Basically it just filters the top up air going into the shocks to make up for loss so volume is extremely small.

My recommendation is use a genuine MB filter (especially for oil since MB use a non standard filter which ids NOT the paper type) and use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil as recommended by MB.

Likewise my recommendation is to only use MB trans oil (not regular ATF) and there is NO NEED to change/flush it prior to 100k miles. My view is you are asking for trouble.

Stuart

 

Stuart,

Thank you!!!

The transmission flush will be performed by my local MD dealer with a quoted cost of $279.00 USD, since there are many little tricks and specialty equipment generally not found at local shops. My biggest concern is these fluidsare eight years old and sitting the last three years with only 5K and bound to become stagnant as the properties deterrate. Would that be a fair assessment? I changed the rear end with 100% synthetic 80-95.

So, per your experience there should be no need to replace the airmatic filter at least until 100K. Advise well taken.

On the oil filter and oil. The manuals that came with the vehicle, I found a one-page pamphlet making reference to Amsoil 5-40 as being MB recommended in 1999. I have used it in the past in my other cars and it actually causes lessfriction internally enough to lower engine temperatures noticeably, with 15K intervals while changing the filter every 5K should keep everything well lubed and clean.

The original MB engine oil filter that came out is made by "Mann" of Germany and in comparing it to the K&N also made in Germany there was no notable difference in construction and appeared visibly comparable/same.

Is there anything else I should consider lookinginto not mentioned?

The cabin filters were filthy and were replaced with Bosh units. Ahh…I can almost smell the fresh airJ while both air intake filter were fairly clean, just tap to get a little sand and leaves fragments and reinstalled.

Again thank you very much for your input.

Have a great day.
Manny

 

I would stick with theMB filter, my feeling is while under the extended warranty, have them change the oil and filter. You dont want to get into hassles with the K&N even if they are made in Europe, unless you cut them open you cant ell anything. MB has been using Mobil (synthetic) euro formula, and "fleece filters".
I would not get wound up about the air filters either, unless they are serviced properly they can screw your MAF, and I guaranntee MB wont warranty that. The trans issue is something my shop forman, and lead thech, can only agree on "that it wont hurt" and a look see in the pan is worth it.
By the waymost dealersare very competitive on oil and filter changes

 

Peter,

After a Google search on the oil. I did come across on an independent study
that compared Mobil 1 and Amsoil neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html. According the data after 12k mile the results were every close. The biggest differrence was the viscosity of the 5-30 test grade,the Amsoil thickened to 15-45, based on those results and your suggestions I will keep to MB recommendation and stick with Mobil 1 (0-40) and original MB filter.

MB states the tranny shouldnever need an fluid change I can't buy that. Why would they sell a tool (dip stick) to check the oil? Preventive is the best medicine. I'll pay the $280.00 to have the tranny serviced. I do plan on keeping this car for quite awhile.

Thank you and others for input/suggestions.

Manny

 

Unless you use the vehicle for arduous work MB are happy that the gearbox is sealed for life. The question is "What is Life"?
Part of the reason behind this strategy is to avoid dirt and incorrect oil getting into the trans. This is why MB do not even supply a dipstick to check oil level and the filler port is fitted with a tamper proopf seal so that any disturbance can be determined.MB are specific that they will only underwrite performance if MB oil is used.
I do not know what is special about MB trans oil but its texture, smell and lubricity do appear different to "normal" AT fluid.

If indeed the trans needs to be drained to effect a repair to a leak (uncommon) or at lets say 100k miles + the filter is changed it is not unreasonable to change the oil but IMHO I suggest you use MB oil. OK its rather expensive but in the scheme of things not that expensive.

So how many miles are you expecting you vehicle to cover?

At (I think you said 34k miles) changing the trans oil is just not required unless you are either driving at 150mph regularly or alternatively spend your time in the desert 35+C.

Worse case scenario is you change your oil for lower grade oil without whatever the magic MB additive is and also inadvertently intro foreign bodies into the trans. My opinion is leave well alone.

Stuart

 

Stuart,

I don't plan on putting too many mile per year and certainly will not be racing or driving to Phoenix AZ in the summer anytime soon.

What I gather from your message is that MB's goal in sealing the transmission was to keep-it from getting contaminated. The oil it's self will wear-out like any other lubricant under constant use, heat etc. It will need to be replaced but not at 45K. O.K. so I can sleep at night knowing everything will be all right at least until 100K. Whew.... Well then that would give me plenty of time to squirrel away the funds for the service in the future.

By the way as mentioned earlier I will not be attempting to do this myself, a MB dealer will perform it. It is running superbly, as per your suggestion it shall remain sealed.

I greatly appreciate your input and help with is this issue. It's nice to know there are well informed and experience folks as yourself and Peter on this site willing to help the new guy.

Best Regards.
Manny

 

Thanks for your positive reply.

I hope that you will get many years and miles from your car without any gremlins. However MB's can go wrong like other cars and the difficulty is working out what has gone bad since MB keep a lot of their data close to their chest and use sophisticated electrics that many technicians do not adequately understand. I wish I understood even better!. Independents don't necessarily have the appropriate equipment to determine what is wrong and just swap out bits which are priced on a basis of what the customer can afford rather than what they cost to produce. Captive market!. Many members refer to the TERRIBLE service they get from MB dealerships in the USA which I observe but cannot comment on. My only gripe with MB dealerships is their OUTRAGEOUS pricing policy and unwillingness to help unless you are willing to pay.

My other finding from my experience is that more often than not faults have a very simple origin. Often I am called to sort things out after numerous parts have been changed ***** nilly. The problem then is whether the repolacement parts are in fact contributing to the problem in some way. People never seem tio consider bad electrical contacts, water ingress, corrosion etc. that can give extremely difficult to resolve problems but no new bits are required.

Leave well alone unless its broke and if something does go wrong get several opinions (including this forum) as to what might be wrong before proceeding.

The most important thing to do is to SERVICE the car at the correct points with the correct materials. MB have spent much time determining the service routine and changing this to either more frequent or less will incur unnecessary expense or create potentially hidden damage.

WRT oil, modern synthetic oils will in "simple" terms last for ever under standard driving conditions and the CORRECT filter will ensure any foreign matter is captured. Correct does not equal cheapest. The problem is one of build up of acidic products within the oil from combustion etc. This is why the oil needs to be changed at the points identified in the service schedule. Modern oils have additives to offset this tendency towards acidity etc and for this reason only the recommended oil should be used. Recommended oil is not just any oil! It is the one that has been through the test programme and proved that its specific ingredients match the requirements of the system and also the servicing schedule. Other oils may be OK, possibily even better but without the test work how will you (or anybody) know. Of course Mobil is a MB partner so oils from the MB range are recommended and are often developed especially for the duty cycle of a product. This goes for lots of components, not just oil. There appears to be a tendency to change oil more frequently than needed in the USA (possibly due to low cost of "standard" oil). MB approved Mobil 1 0w-40 costs circa 200 USD per sumpful here in UK. Mind you every thing over here is way more expensive than in the States.

So IMHO follow the service schedule exactly. Assistance is given by the onboard ASSYST system. i.e. the car will tell you when the oil needs to be changed based on an algorithm of mileage, duty and time dependent upon your driving style.

Hope this all helps.

Stuart.