okay, so the adapter/ spacer is out of the picture, cause even the stock turbo only gets another 2" before it hits some metal line right next to the fender, the hx35 would currently be about half inch clearance from that line as well, my only option would be to drop the turbo ~2".

Your angle idea is perfect in this regard, but will anyone who welds professionally touch a high heat exhaust manifold at the risk of their reputation? I can easily grab another exhaust manifold at pick and pull for < $40 and chop at it. for the 2" extension down, can i use regular steel or do i need to find cast iron, or what material is the manifold made of anyways?

I followed your tutorial on turning up the full load today, 19mm and 9mm lock nuts. The middle one seemed to be a 14mm and i tightened it all the way with my fingers, tightened it all back up, replaced the pump side cover, will fill with fresh synthetic 1/2 quart tomorrow.

I took the oil filter housing off to get to it, dont have a new gasket though, and the old one looks pretty good still, just gonna use some rejuvinatiion goop on it, nothing that will chunk off into the housing though. Im like a child on christmas eve now, cant wait till church is over tomorrow,

 

So you mean the limiter controls 20hp from stock, or i get an additional 20 from removing it?

Also, what material is safe to have welded onto a now ~1000 *f exhaust manifold, possibly 1200 in the future? what are exhaust manifolds made out of, just ordinary steel? If i just drop the flange down ~2", both turbos would have no trouble clearing the w123 manifold.

Luckily the gasket sealer on the old oil filter housing gasket holds under full load with the oil pressure, i did make it surgically clean. I could only see a little smoke in the following cars' headlights because it was night when i test drove, but people kept changing lanes to avoid being behind me so it must have been a decent amount

waste gate adusting tomorrow, im gonna run it at 14psi for the time being

 

So i found this guy on a blog online who just restored a w115 and fit it with a turbo i believe, but he had a bunch of extra parts in his garage including the rare coveted 1975 manifold.
So im getting it for $100 if there are no cracks, i believe that includes shipping, hes de-greasing it tomorrow to double check before paypallin it.
Ive been browsing ricer forums for opinions on the hx35, i know gas and diesel are different, but they maintain it spools a little before 3k rpm, just as you said.
I am affraid of outright removing the rack limiter/ full load adjustment assEmbly, lest i experience oscilating idle, where CAN I PURCHASE THAT upgraded gold anodized kit?
Oil return line on the Holset, WILL IT LINE UP WITH THE TURBO FROM YOUR OWN experiences?
Oil supply line on the holset- now that i have the new manifold, it should just BOLT ON WITHOUT INTERFERING with little to no bending, IS THE PRESSURE GOING TO BE CORRECT WITH THE STOCK ORIFICE/ REDUCER?

 

I have been quite busy with school, traveled for spring break so i have not been able to work on the merc. However my w115 intake na manifold did finally come in so i will install it on the next sunny saturday.

I also ordered and received a manual boost controller because my stock t3 turbo wont exceed 10psi no matter how much i adjust it. It never has put out less than 8psi, and will not pass 10 psi. Is a boost controller a smart way to go, or do i seriously need to worry about spiking?

The car is hard to start when cold, even if it is not cold outside. If i put my foot on the gas while i crank it starts right up, maybe an air leak? The injectors have not been changed or messed with for about 7 years now, the first two look like they leak ever so slowly (diesel residue around where they screw on) time for new injectors?

 

Forced, you sir are truly an experienced mechanic. Replaced all 5 of my bosch glow plugs with 5 new ****ty autolites that came with the car and it fired up and even idled right, warmed up faster, and the lag from p to D on the shifter was much less. I saved the bosch ones to clean and test later when i have more time.

My coworker got the temp sensor and boost pressure hookup to thread on the new manifold with fittings and teflon tape (will it melt under engine heat?) and i painted it with some cool green engine enamel i bought on spring break in oregon with no sales tax! I just got a canopy for my driveway so i can work rain or shine too.

I clamped the waste gate hose as well and it still wont pass 10psi, turbo problem? I will be installing the hx35 soon anyways but is there anything i can do to the garrett to put out more air?

 

I will look at trading my hx35w for something smaller, i bought it at the steal of under $290 new with shipping (i assume its a rebuild by E||USA) but its genuine holset based on Holset tactics for identifying fakes on their website. I also bought it because i eventually plan on installing a 90s E model diesel engine in the car and want something worth transferring over in the turbo department.

Is there anything i can do to my turbo in the mean time to dislodge that internal spring? I will have the exhaust manifold and turbo off the car this weekend as i install the w115 intake manifold and intercooler piping.

My uncle has redneck tapping and lubrication strategies that often work on engine components that otherwise would require a lot of work to disasseble or replace, if you could point me in the right direction to hit or lubricate without damaging turbo parts? (parts like recoil pull starts and other spring loaded parts)

 

Disappeared for a bit; now im back to tuning my diesel.
I finally got time to work on my 300sd, graduating in January with a BS in Information Systems. My benz has been running great with a w115 manifold, and my mechanic found the fuel pump was 24 degrees off timing and fixed it- car idles much better now. I just picked up a a stock t3 from the wrecking yard which will hopefully hit 15psi because my old turb0 has lots of shaft play.

I traded the off brand holset hx35 i purchased to a couple of rednecks for a brand new real branded hx30; i might install it someday when i play with fittings and do more research.

question- I have seen what looks like to be an auxillary fuel pump in your engine bay Forcedinduction, I just got a fuel pump that says it works on diesels- Do you run one, how is the best way to connect it, any benefits?


I will take pics and post them.

 

cool, i saw your external fuel filter thread and have decided to perform your surgery on my vehicle. That was the part i thought was an auxilliary diesel pump.
I got a diesel fuel pump from my grandpa that he once intended to put on his 300d wagon. It is a quality model as far as they go from the google search i did, i can post the info when i get home. Due you recommend installing such a pump to enhance or smooth throttle response in altitudes or on inclines? How will it affect performance? bad Idea for this car? setup inline, on which part of the fuel system?

 

k, il save it till i get an m pump. My newly installed t3 is barely pushing 11psi with the wastegate nut fully tightened, I really want more boost. I ordered some fittings for my new hx30 after brushing up on your orifice thread.

So just to recap- Im not buying any orifice parts, just gonna cut a quarter20 bolt and drill a ~.05" hole in it & put it inline before my addon oil pressure gauge--> keep trying different sized bolt holes till it is inline with holset pressure specs. Will a standard psi gauge from my hardware store be ok?

My hx30 does not have a wastegate built in, How much psi do you think it will make? If more than 15psi, how do i go about limiting boost pressure with no internal wastegate?

 

Maybe something like this clamped to the egr port on my exhaust manifold:
44MM External Turbo Exhaust Manifold Wastegate 8Psi V-Band Civic B16 B18 Integra | eBay