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-   -   W123 na manifold on 82 300sd (faster bottom acceleration/ adding IC) (https://mercedesforum.com/forum/diesel-performance-49/w123-na-manifold-82-300sd-faster-bottom-acceleration-adding-ic-50734/)

The Dude 02-21-2012 10:52 PM

W123 na manifold on 82 300sd (faster bottom acceleration/ adding IC)
 
Hello all, I am new to this forum, but have been ghosting a number of mercedes diesel forums over the last 2 years to gather information on improving engine performance.
This is really a shoutout to ForcedInduction, tho currently banned on most mbz forums, but your older posts have really done a wonder on my om617 and i can proudly say i know the top end of the thing really well.

Ok enough kissing a$$, here is the sitch:

I have a boost gauge, pyrometer, and still the stock t3.

-in a few posts Forced has claimed the w123 na manifold will fit his 617 setup, tho he opts to use the w115 long runner, but he does have a different turbo, Will the w123 intake manifold fit over the stock t3 if clocked correctly?

Others have said no on similar models, some have said it will, has anyone actually tested it over a stock t3, NOT KKK turbo?

I ordered one off of ebay, almost mint condition came in, only $60 free shipping and i will use it no matter the headache.

If it will not fit over the stock t3 ( it really looks like it might, but i need to drive the car to school till the weekend, so i cant comfortably swap) WHAT are my options, (modify exhaust manifold, replace/ modify turbo, etc)?

Money is no issue, I am searching for the SIMPLEST and MOST RELIABLE options.


Current setup, if it makes any difference:
-Real cold air intake, oversized k&n filter for GM v8s, ran from turbo to under bumper with 3 inch piping.
-Air to Air IC is mounted front (28"x8"), minimal bumper chopping, pipes are 2.25 aluminum with NO SILICON elbows, all bends are aluminum to reduce lag.
-EGR delete
-pyro/ boost gauge
-engine is sparkly clean, in tip top maintained state with ~300k miles, only trany is in question
-amg 8.0x17 rare monoblocks with no spacers
-replaced holy muffler with thrush glasspacks and cool exhaust tip (im in San Francisco so i cant run it too loud)
-remote locking system with new vac pump and wiring to avoid confusion with the pumps solenoids

The Dude 02-22-2012 12:36 AM

possible solution
 
uppon closer inspection, it looks as though the manifold will not clear the t3, perhaps a holset 25, 35, or 40 like the one in this video would be an easy swap and a rather inexpensive solution:

Mercedes 300D holseth hx40g - YouTube

or ebay 25
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

The Dude 02-22-2012 01:00 AM

Thanks for the quick response! I keep worrying that the thing wont fit, and the more i try to eybeball and ruler calculate the less it looks like it would, but man that would be an easy solution. Did you ever run a na w123 setup such as this that you could comment on performance wise?

A little water in the engine does good and cleans, and my filter is right beneath the headlight, but up against the bumper with its curvature, so im not worried about puddles, and dont drive the beast in rain very often (my car is also not lowered, and the rims push it up higher).
To tell you the truth, k & N is not my favorite, but fram has the worst reputation of filtration companies other than STP.
I shouldnt be arguing with an experienced pro like yourself tho, and may revert to running it behind the headlight again.

What fuel injectors do you use on your om617 btw Forced? its getting time to replace mine after all these miles.

The Dude 02-23-2012 02:27 AM

the na w123 manifold is overlapping my t3 turbo by ~1/4 inch, what should i Do? what are my simple, most reliable options?

-modify exhaust manifold/ flange angle?
-turbo with different shape?
-anyone have a w115 long runner manifold they want to sell?

The Dude 02-25-2012 10:28 PM

Need some help here
 
So i ordered a hx35 because the general consensus is that it will spool a little later than the garett t3, but get the job done, and will most likely be a noticible upgrade since im still running the original untouched 30 year old turbo. I will turn up the fuel pump to max, and eventually have the local diesel tuning shop upgrade my 5mm mw plungers (its a jump to an unnecessary 8mm, but i will run it a little starved at that point).

I noticed a youtube video with a mbz running a hx40 with na w123 manifold like mine, and it seemed to clear just fine, figured the hx35 will too.

I will start taking pictures once everything arrives and post my results, any ideas what im gonna do with the turbo oil supply line? i picked up an extra one at pray and pull, but it looks like im gonna have to tubing bend it or have a shop chop/flare and connect stainless hose.

Anyone done anything similar that they could comment on, any info will be greatly appreciated!

...and yes forced i will have the air filter on a right angle behind the headlight so it wont be a cold water intake.

The Dude 02-26-2012 07:43 PM

should be perfect
 
My 82 300sd is a rocket right now from 0-20mph, and 60- 95mph. My problem is a massive lack of power between those ranges, I realize it is because of my bowden cable setting, but no matter how i set it i have to compromise power in one of those ranges. the hx 35 should be perfect under load in that range and thus a viable solution to the problem. Look at this bad boy

In car video w116 with Holset hx35 turbo - YouTube

The Dude 02-27-2012 12:26 AM

btw
 
he does have a video posted of his car drag racing and kicking a volvo/ vw's a$$.
83 300d with 7.5mm ip. Hx40turbo and race tranny - YouTube

Another thing, your nitpicking/ missing the point of my question, of course the tubo is going to spool later than the t3, but Realize i am paying return shipping if the thing doesnt clear the n/a long runner manifold, as this is essential to getting the turbo to spool up more quickly.

All i am looking for is a viable solution to getting that n/a manifold on the car and clearing whatever turbo will fit without compromising power.

THe more important question to answer as well is what am i going to do about the oil supply line? is the flare/stainless braid something that i can do at home or the local auto shop can do? I have a spare metal one from pray and pull, can i simply heat it up and bend it with a tubing bender? what is best from your experience?


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