So you mean the limiter controls 20hp from stock, or i get an additional 20 from removing it?

Also, what material is safe to have welded onto a now ~1000 *f exhaust manifold, possibly 1200 in the future? what are exhaust manifolds made out of, just ordinary steel? If i just drop the flange down ~2", both turbos would have no trouble clearing the w123 manifold.

Luckily the gasket sealer on the old oil filter housing gasket holds under full load with the oil pressure, i did make it surgically clean. I could only see a little smoke in the following cars' headlights because it was night when i test drove, but people kept changing lanes to avoid being behind me so it must have been a decent amount:)

waste gate adusting tomorrow, im gonna run it at 14psi for the time being

update
 

So i found this guy on a blog online who just restored a w115 and fit it with a turbo i believe, but he had a bunch of extra parts in his garage including the rare coveted 1975 manifold.
So im getting it for $100 if there are no cracks, i believe that includes shipping, hes de-greasing it tomorrow to double check before paypallin it.
Ive been browsing ricer forums for opinions on the hx35, i know gas and diesel are different, but they maintain it spools a little before 3k rpm, just as you said.
I am affraid of outright removing the rack limiter/ full load adjustment assEmbly, lest i experience oscilating idle, where CAN I PURCHASE THAT upgraded gold anodized kit?
Oil return line on the Holset, WILL IT LINE UP WITH THE TURBO FROM YOUR OWN experiences?
Oil supply line on the holset- now that i have the new manifold, it should just BOLT ON WITHOUT INTERFERING with little to no bending, IS THE PRESSURE GOING TO BE CORRECT WITH THE STOCK ORIFICE/ REDUCER?

update
 

I have been quite busy with school, traveled for spring break so i have not been able to work on the merc. However my w115 intake na manifold did finally come in so i will install it on the next sunny saturday.

I also ordered and received a manual boost controller because my stock t3 turbo wont exceed 10psi no matter how much i adjust it. It never has put out less than 8psi, and will not pass 10 psi. Is a boost controller a smart way to go, or do i seriously need to worry about spiking?

The car is hard to start when cold, even if it is not cold outside. If i put my foot on the gas while i crank it starts right up, maybe an air leak? The injectors have not been changed or messed with for about 7 years now, the first two look like they leak ever so slowly (diesel residue around where they screw on) time for new injectors?

update
 

Forced, you sir are truly an experienced mechanic. Replaced all 5 of my bosch glow plugs with 5 new ****ty autolites that came with the car and it fired up and even idled right, warmed up faster, and the lag from p to D on the shifter was much less. I saved the bosch ones to clean and test later when i have more time.

My coworker got the temp sensor and boost pressure hookup to thread on the new manifold with fittings and teflon tape (will it melt under engine heat?) and i painted it with some cool green engine enamel i bought on spring break in oregon with no sales tax! I just got a canopy for my driveway so i can work rain or shine too.

I clamped the waste gate hose as well and it still wont pass 10psi, turbo problem? I will be installing the hx35 soon anyways but is there anything i can do to the garrett to put out more air?

I will look at trading my hx35w for something smaller, i bought it at the steal of under $290 new with shipping (i assume its a rebuild by E||USA) but its genuine holset based on Holset tactics for identifying fakes on their website. I also bought it because i eventually plan on installing a 90s E model diesel engine in the car and want something worth transferring over in the turbo department.

Is there anything i can do to my turbo in the mean time to dislodge that internal spring? I will have the exhaust manifold and turbo off the car this weekend as i install the w115 intake manifold and intercooler piping.

My uncle has redneck tapping and lubrication strategies that often work on engine components that otherwise would require a lot of work to disasseble or replace, if you could point me in the right direction to hit or lubricate without damaging turbo parts? (parts like recoil pull starts and other spring loaded parts)