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Amsoil bypass

  #1  
Old 08-04-2011, 12:17 PM
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Default Amsoil bypass

Finally planning on the installation of an Amsoil Bypass oil filter for my OM617. I have been contemplating for a while now wether it makes sense for me to plumb up the hole thing or just buy the BMK21 kit straight from Amsoil for about ($260). Filter included!

Im pretty sure I can save about $50-$80 bucks if I plumb it out and build from scratch.

Any advise on what route I should take is welcomed. Im pretty sure it will be something like $50 worth of 1/4" I.D Parker Synthetic Oil hoses, Maybe Another $60 in good non leaking barbs,adapters, couplings etc, $40 for filter head from Amsoil, $45 for filter.. Missing anything? a guage?

While im on the subject, when I tap both the OEM oil lid as source and valve cover as return should teflon tape still be used on the hose barb adapters? Would that not create the possibility for teflon debris to fall right into the motor? Should it be JB welded instead? How about a self tapping hollow bolt with a bolt sealing gasket?

Further, What is better to tap, the Valve cover near the timing chain for further lubrication or the oil fill cap as it's a less expensive piece to replace?

Finally, what combination size tap and bit needs to be used that will match the barbs NPT? [1/4" NPT 1/4" barb] =[X" bit and Y" tap]
I ask because most plumbing places dont even know what type threads is on the barbs they sell plus And im a total moron when tapping?


cheers
 

Last edited by 85300td; 08-04-2011 at 12:38 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-05-2011, 08:28 PM
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Holy Crap that is some nice detailed info..It will take me time to digest it. 8)

"Do not tap the lid, tap a fitting into the turbo's banjo bolt on the back of the filter base."

Are you referring to this banjo?


If so, do you mean literally tap the Banjo bolt itself? Since this feeds the turbo with oil lubrication would not that be dangerous? Maybe starve the turbo of lubrication or something. Any reasons why you now think that its better to tap the banjo vs the oil lid? Did you change ur old set up? Maybe messing with that tiny little bleed hole in the center of the OEM lid is an issue?

"the 1/16" restriction orifice on the outlet side of the filter"
This has me confused. I know that restriction will be needed but im lost in translation somewhere. Are you referring to putting the 1/16" restriction allen for restriction on the physical location of where the banjo is connected to on the OEM filter base? A pic of ur rear banjo tapping procedure would be GREATLY appreciated..


Regarding the full flow oil filters from NAPA that u are recommending. Are you recommending they be used after the AMSOIL BYPASS set up or RIGHT NOW with the stock OEM w/out the AMSOIL bypass?

Finally, where are you getting all those barbs u are recommending? I went to my local Parker but those fitting from them are like $25 a pop, crazy money..

Thanks So much...
 

Last edited by 85300td; 08-05-2011 at 08:35 PM.
  #3  
Old 08-09-2011, 08:59 PM
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Remember, you also need a 1/16" restriction orifice on the outlet side of the filter. The easiest way is to tap the inside of the bypass filter base's center/outlet fitting, insert a brass allen socket plug and drill the orifice into it.
What size brass allen socket plug are u utilizing for creating restriction and where could I buy it? A 1/8" NPT allen?

SMC BRASS PIPE PLUG ALLEN 1/8 NPT

cheers
 

Last edited by 85300td; 08-09-2011 at 09:01 PM.
  #4  
Old 08-11-2011, 01:40 PM
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I think i can get a -4AN to 14 x 1.5 banjo bolt that i could install in place of that rear banjo. This way I could always reverse the process and keep the OEM turbo banjo.
 
  #5  
Old 08-11-2011, 09:10 PM
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SWEET!!

Parker is like my new local addiction. Pricey though, Good quality stuff.

on a completely different subject,
I ran into an old P.P pic of u running a california DRY filter box.


Dude, do u still have this cali air box. I WILL BUY IT! I have been trying for months now and no one has it. Maybe its because the filters are pricey.

I think that these CALI versions will flow better than the stock UFO. Let me know. I opted out of the FRAM..

cheers
 
  #6  
Old 08-13-2011, 08:30 PM
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Maybe Ill look into that. I want a sealed unit, im not supping it up, will be stock so might as well.

Is that a VW separator (regulator/valve) thingy before the Harbor Freight Sep..?

Where did ur Amsoil Go?
 

Last edited by 85300td; 08-15-2011 at 05:42 PM.
  #7  
Old 08-15-2011, 06:57 PM
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FYI, W126 and W123 filter assembly's are the same. The bottom outlet rotates and the brackets have different mounting locations to fit both cars using the same hardware.
<-------------?

Flows better(600 or so CFM) than w123 UFO, Except where will I mount it? Relocate coolant tank? Drop it in sideways somehow near headlight?

Or were u making a point in that perhaps it would be a better option filter cleaner, in that it would be installable in the same location of the UFO?
 

Last edited by 85300td; 08-15-2011 at 07:30 PM.
  #8  
Old 08-16-2011, 10:25 PM
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nice! i want to set one of these up as soon as i get her running again......i'v been using their (Amsoil) products in my delivery vehicles and Benz for years.....
 
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