so maybe im a little too concerned or maybe thats whats needed. but im a little worried about blow by. common sense would tell me if i have blow by which means that compression is sneaking past the rings. (please correct me at any point). if thats the case wouldnt a person want to fix the problem. new rings or whatever it takes. i open up the oil fill and a healthy puff of white smoke comes out. oil has been present in my air filter and inside the tube connecting the air filter to the intake of the turbo. car will smoke little white puffs till it warms up. i dont know if thats because its sucking in that oil thats inside the tube or what really. what i would like to do is an after market air filter and maybe drop that tube down the side of the block. again just thoughts of a newb. all input more than appreciated. would like to know kinda how to attack this new monster of mine. just changed the oil by the way idk if that does or doesnt do anything but just for the record. thanks for your help

 

An Engine Overhaul is the only real cure.

Trying to re-ring it without changing the bore is basically installing round Piston Rings in an oval Bore.

In My case I altered my Air intake Crankcase Breather system. Made a Breather Filter out of a Cookie Can and routed the Breather Tube to a spot that is in the Air Intake but away from contaminating the Air Filter.
Some have installed commercial Crankcase Breather/Filters and some have routed the outlets to the Atmoshpere.

Somtimes putting something like Marvel Mystrey Oil in the Cylinders and letting it soak in a Week or so frees up sticking Piston Rings. But, if your Rings are not sticking it won't help. I tried this on my Mercedes with no obserable effect.

Switching to Synthetic Motor Oil has been claimed to free up sticking Piston Rings after driving 200-300 or so Miles. Using it has other benefits such as easier cold starting at low Winter Temps.

Engine stuff that helps combustion happen when and how it is supposed to like adjusting the Valves, checking the Valve Timing (Timing Chain Stretch), Fuel Injection Pump Timing and having Injectors that are with in specs also help.

If your Valve Stem Guides are entirely shot replacing them may also help.

Missed one. Some People have has luck removing the lid of the stock Crank Case Breather and sealing the edges with Silicon Sealant when they assemble it.
Along with that the Drain Tube and Check Valve at the bottom need to be clear.

 

so is it safe to assume that some more fuel and more air would not be the best option here? im just thinking about down the road. because my original plan was a touch more juice? what would be the cost of an "overhaul kit" for this particular motor. which parts would this kit most likely include. is it correct these motors are sleeved. do you have any pictures of how anybody has ran intake and crankcase breather like you described. it looks like im just full of questions.

 

The cheapest way to go would be to find a Car with a beat up/rusted out exterior a low milage Engine that has little Blow-by. One that you can test drive.
I say that because more than a few have bought Engines out of the Car that they could not test and got lied to on the condition of the Engine.

There is no "overhaul Kit". New Pistons for the Turbo Diesels are hard to find and are in the $375 each or more range.
The Cylinder Liners are not so expensive and used to be around $30 each.
It is more typical for people to tear the Engine down and see if their Old Pistons are still within specs and reuse the Pistons with new Liners. Or, if their own Pistons are no good they try to find good used Pistons.

I believe but cannot remember if the Liners need to be bored after they are in the Engine.

ForcedInduction; the Forum Moderator has or used to have a Oil Separator type Filter on his system to deal with the Blow-by. Not sure why He did not mention that.

 

One of the Members of another forum used a Electric ACDelco 215-425 New Air Pump, GM 12568324 $130-150 range (eBay prices) to suck the Blow-by out.

However, adding anything that needs electric power when you have a 55-65 amp Alternator might cause Battery Charging issues if you driving is mostly short trips.

There are higher Amperage Alternators available.

 

so what im getting is if your pistons are not within spec. better to get a new motor. but say they were within spec. would it be reasonable to do the rings and the sleeves. or is there more to it then what im seeing here. you guys have been great by the way

 

If the Pistons are not within specs I said get a used Engine is one of the things that other people have done.

If the Pistons are within spec they can be reused with new Rings in the New Liners bored to match the Old within spec Pistons.

You can kind of figure out the rest of the cost by going to your favorite online part Seller and add up the cost of Parts you want to replace.

The other expensive item on a Turbo Engine is if new Exhaust Valves are needed. they can often be refaced but this Engine had Valve Rotators and that wears the Valve Faces some.

A new IWIS Timing Chain can be around $150 each.