Diesels to Buy/Avoid (Pre 95's)
#131
11-21-2012, 02:26 PM
Have had a 1976 300D for 17 years. Only main issue was bringing t from CA to FL..it now has rust issues so I'm gonna prolly sell it despite my internal objections. This thing is a tank...goes zero to 60 in 5 days 
BUT same transmission and same engine, and I have no idea how many miles because the tac only has 5 clicks. I have kept it up..have problems here and there but nothing major. The big issue is finding a mechanic who knows what to do. I've found that the majority of issues are misdiagnosed and are really cheap and easy fixes. Overall is been a great car. sun roof is original and it still does not leak even with Florida sun and rain. Very impressive vehicle. Freakin SOLID.
BUT same transmission and same engine, and I have no idea how many miles because the tac only has 5 clicks. I have kept it up..have problems here and there but nothing major. The big issue is finding a mechanic who knows what to do. I've found that the majority of issues are misdiagnosed and are really cheap and easy fixes. Overall is been a great car. sun roof is original and it still does not leak even with Florida sun and rain. Very impressive vehicle. Freakin SOLID.
#132
08-10-2013, 09:17 AM
W124: things to look out for
Transmission usually last very long on the non 4-matic W124s. Rebuilt units are not prohibitively expense and can be installed fairly painlessly by a skilled mechanic. Any slipage or hesitation going into reverse is a sign of a bad transmission. Also the front and back ends of the drive shaft have a rubberized flexible drive couple that is a maintenance item. Having one of these fail is a very bad thing. Probably around a 200km-250km lifespan on transmissions, depending on a lot of things.
Bottom end work on the engine is almost never heard of. Cylinder head should be taken off and looked at somewhere between 150km and 200km.
Maintenance records are key on a car like this. The less owners, the more authorized and documentation maintenance, and the less time spent outside in the elements really help with the longevity of these cars.
The 92-95 model years of these cars were plagued by an issue with the main wiring harness coming apart due to poor quality construction of the harness wrap. This causes massive electrical issues. A fair amount of the cars got this work done early on. If you are looking at one in this year range do not consider it unless there is proper documentation that the wiring harness was replaced by a qualified shop.
Pay attention to any oil in the coolant reservoir. Sure sign of trouble.
Stay away from the 4-matics (AWD) versions. While a good idea, they are extremely prone to failure and the years have not been kind on the system.
Change the oil regularly and only run 400 15W/40 (it’s a diesel engine oil, but these engines prefer it).
Expect to drop a bit replacing some common relays, sensors, and other regular maintenance items. Stay up on all maintenance and don’t let anything slip. Parts are somewhat expensive, but easy to source.
Bottom end work on the engine is almost never heard of. Cylinder head should be taken off and looked at somewhere between 150km and 200km.
Maintenance records are key on a car like this. The less owners, the more authorized and documentation maintenance, and the less time spent outside in the elements really help with the longevity of these cars.
The 92-95 model years of these cars were plagued by an issue with the main wiring harness coming apart due to poor quality construction of the harness wrap. This causes massive electrical issues. A fair amount of the cars got this work done early on. If you are looking at one in this year range do not consider it unless there is proper documentation that the wiring harness was replaced by a qualified shop.
Pay attention to any oil in the coolant reservoir. Sure sign of trouble.
Stay away from the 4-matics (AWD) versions. While a good idea, they are extremely prone to failure and the years have not been kind on the system.
Change the oil regularly and only run 400 15W/40 (it’s a diesel engine oil, but these engines prefer it).
Expect to drop a bit replacing some common relays, sensors, and other regular maintenance items. Stay up on all maintenance and don’t let anything slip. Parts are somewhat expensive, but easy to source.
#134
02-07-2014, 05:16 PM
New Friends,
ImVho, based on well over FOUR DECADES of driving M-B diesels, there NO such thing as a BAD M-B diesel, though I would have a VERY comprehensive PPI done on any 350SDL that I was interested in.
(My buddy, John L_____________, has 375,000+ miles on his 1991 350SDL, with ZERO major problems.)
That said, my FAVORITES are the 1986-87 300D & 300SDL and the various "very plain vanilla" NON-turbo W123 (The EURO model, sans turbo & with 4-speed manual trans being my personal favorite W123.), with the 300SDL for FREEWAY driving & the "little" 300D for suburban/city driving, if for no other reasons than EASE of PARKING & better "stop & go" fuel mileage.
(Btw, IF you keep up on the routine/owner maintenance, I do NOT believe that you can EVER, in one life, wear out a 300SDL. - A friend in Coral Gables, FL has one with 1,200,000 miles on it.)
just my opinions, satx
ImVho, based on well over FOUR DECADES of driving M-B diesels, there NO such thing as a BAD M-B diesel, though I would have a VERY comprehensive PPI done on any 350SDL that I was interested in.
(My buddy, John L_____________, has 375,000+ miles on his 1991 350SDL, with ZERO major problems.)
That said, my FAVORITES are the 1986-87 300D & 300SDL and the various "very plain vanilla" NON-turbo W123 (The EURO model, sans turbo & with 4-speed manual trans being my personal favorite W123.), with the 300SDL for FREEWAY driving & the "little" 300D for suburban/city driving, if for no other reasons than EASE of PARKING & better "stop & go" fuel mileage.
(Btw, IF you keep up on the routine/owner maintenance, I do NOT believe that you can EVER, in one life, wear out a 300SDL. - A friend in Coral Gables, FL has one with 1,200,000 miles on it.)
just my opinions, satx
#135
02-07-2014, 10:56 PM
Forced Induction,
SORRY, but you are 100% WRONG.
The car has had SEVERAL rebuilds on the auto transmission but the local dealer says that the engine is original & has been featured in a segment on its longevity on local NBC TV News.
yours, satx
SORRY, but you are 100% WRONG.
The car has had SEVERAL rebuilds on the auto transmission but the local dealer says that the engine is original & has been featured in a segment on its longevity on local NBC TV News.
yours, satx
#136
05-11-2014, 08:53 PM
Is the 1985 300D a car to hold on to?
Hello Mercedes enthusiasts,
I have a 1985 300D with 250K miles. As far as I know, i am the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2005, cleaned (cosmetically) it up and put it on the road for just a few months. We decided we had too many cars on the insurance and set it aside, starting it up every once in awhile. I just threw a voltage regulator on it (battery was being drained) and a new battery and it runs like a charm. This car is amazing.
Here is my question: should I sell it or hold on to it? The car has just one rust hole in the driver side back trunk about the size of a tennis ball, a broken sun roof (it is closed and will not open and leaks on really heavy rains) - and that is all I can see wrong with it. It shifts fine, has that strong clatter of a diesel, and well seems terrific even after all these years of waiting its turn on the road. It is such a pretty car - dark blue with all that shiny chrome. I don't see too many of these cars around like I used to. Is this the kind of car I should hold on to as a classic?
I appreciate your advice.
I have a 1985 300D with 250K miles. As far as I know, i am the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2005, cleaned (cosmetically) it up and put it on the road for just a few months. We decided we had too many cars on the insurance and set it aside, starting it up every once in awhile. I just threw a voltage regulator on it (battery was being drained) and a new battery and it runs like a charm. This car is amazing.
Here is my question: should I sell it or hold on to it? The car has just one rust hole in the driver side back trunk about the size of a tennis ball, a broken sun roof (it is closed and will not open and leaks on really heavy rains) - and that is all I can see wrong with it. It shifts fine, has that strong clatter of a diesel, and well seems terrific even after all these years of waiting its turn on the road. It is such a pretty car - dark blue with all that shiny chrome
. I don't see too many of these cars around like I used to. Is this the kind of car I should hold on to as a classic?I appreciate your advice.
#137
06-23-2014, 09:23 PM
Hello Mercedes enthusiasts,
I have a 1985 300D with 250K miles. As far as I know, i am the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2005, cleaned (cosmetically) it up and put it on the road for just a few months. We decided we had too many cars on the insurance and set it aside, starting it up every once in awhile. I just threw a voltage regulator on it (battery was being drained) and a new battery and it runs like a charm. This car is amazing.
Here is my question: should I sell it or hold on to it? The car has just one rust hole in the driver side back trunk about the size of a tennis ball, a broken sun roof (it is closed and will not open and leaks on really heavy rains) - and that is all I can see wrong with it. It shifts fine, has that strong clatter of a diesel, and well seems terrific even after all these years of waiting its turn on the road. It is such a pretty car - dark blue with all that shiny chrome. I don't see too many of these cars around like I used to. Is this the kind of car I should hold on to as a classic?
I appreciate your advice.
I have a 1985 300D with 250K miles. As far as I know, i am the 2nd owner. I bought it in 2005, cleaned (cosmetically) it up and put it on the road for just a few months. We decided we had too many cars on the insurance and set it aside, starting it up every once in awhile. I just threw a voltage regulator on it (battery was being drained) and a new battery and it runs like a charm. This car is amazing.
Here is my question: should I sell it or hold on to it? The car has just one rust hole in the driver side back trunk about the size of a tennis ball, a broken sun roof (it is closed and will not open and leaks on really heavy rains) - and that is all I can see wrong with it. It shifts fine, has that strong clatter of a diesel, and well seems terrific even after all these years of waiting its turn on the road. It is such a pretty car - dark blue with all that shiny chrome
. I don't see too many of these cars around like I used to. Is this the kind of car I should hold on to as a classic?I appreciate your advice.
#138
08-23-2014, 05:23 PM
Can anyone tell me if a 1980 300D that needs a head gasket with 300,000 miles on it
is it worth $450 to buy
is it worth $450 to buy
#139
08-28-2014, 09:38 AM
Is a 1987 300td needing a starter and injection pump worth $2000? I would think it is more likely worth less than $1000. Any ideas what it is worth? Everything else seems to be good. Body, paint, interior.
#140
09-09-2014, 09:09 AM
What is a 1987 300SDL worth that has 227K on it with a blown head gasket?
The exterior is a 7 out of 10 and the interior is a 8 out of 10 and everything works
The exterior is a 7 out of 10 and the interior is a 8 out of 10 and everything works