Forced Induction, I'm in deep trouble and need help: Have a 99 300TD with 122K miles. Removing a dead and broken off glow plug I drilled into the intake. That I fixed with carbon fiber tape and JB. (long, long story). Started engine, meaning to run only on 5 GP's. Engine didn't sound right so decided removing the c.head because some of the drilled material may have been sucked into the intake; into the cylinder cavity doing damage. Put the crank on O/T, lined up the camshaft gears, I checked the reading on the crankshaft scale it was less then 1 degree, marked the chain and sprocket. At that point I dismantled the c.head. With the head off I saw nothing that would indicate damage to the top of #1 cylinder-but, maybe, fine particles may have lodged between piston and c.walls? Moved the piston down I saw hedging but no unusual scratches. A great relief! Removed all GP's and fixed properly the damage to the intake and glow plug hole. Had a valve job done, the pre-chambers removed and cleaned. Put crank on O/T (-the half of a degree I measured before dismantling) and installed c.head. Installed camshafts, timed and locked it in place. Found the paint mark on the chain (had to manual crank in order to find it) Matched it up with the mark on the sprocket, it did not match with the holes on the spur gear. Worse, the t.chain now gets stuck at a certain spot unable to rock it free. I'm faced with a Royal Mess, as one guy expressed. Should I have to remove the IP, how do I get the 2 large square nuts off? How should I face the whole issue. You helped me before, thus my asking!

 

Sounds like you got your timing all messed up. Remove the camshaft. Then get the crank and injection pump to TDC(for cylinder 1). Then re-install the camshaft with it as close to TDC(#1) as you can get. Then re-install gear and chain, aligning the marks on the gear to the head while not moving the chain or the pump and crank. Turn engine over by hand a few times. Then check and adjust timing of inj. pump and camshaft to spec. The pump probably adjusts by loosening it's mounting bolts and rotating, while the cam timing is done by loosening the cam gear and rotating it on the camshaft and tightening once the desired location is achieved(at least that's how I do it on VW diesels and 603 I got has the same basic set up).

 

Bernhardt, thanks for reply. got it all straightened out, now a new challenge, the fuel system. Got to find a post on how to test a fuel pump. It's either that or something is sucking air. I changed all the soft fuel lines, and since they come complete with o-ring in place it really sucks! Any help is much appreciated.

 

Have you tried what I call direct priming? Take the fuel in and fuel returns(to tank) off of the pump and manually fill the injection pump. Also make sure you get free fuel flow from the tank to the pump(I've used a hand vacuum pump to do this). Any more than say 5 inches of vacuum is a problem. Out of curiousity, you ever mix biodiesel and regular diesel in tank?

 

Bernhardt, this morning I tested the SOV it wasn't working. Made up a couple of wires with appr. lugs and connected the valve direct. It is working. Tried to start, no changes from previous. I don't know whether you are familiar with the 606 td? My next move will be testing the fuel pump: It has 2 fittings...in and out. Thought of taking the in/fitting off and replace it with an old fitting attaching a long hose, the end I will place in a container with fuel. The out/fitting I take off the filter and have it discharge also in a container. Direct connecting the SOV and cranking the engine should tell me whether the pump is working... pressure would be another thing. What do you think of it? The history of the whole operation is as follow: I had a perfectly running engine to begin with but like a typical Kraut I wanted more then that, starting with changing glow plugs. #1 broke after hours of trying it finally broke and so did 4 others. Attempting to bore out #1 the bit when way off course into the intake. Screwing around some more didn't help. At that stage thought that some of the hard chips may have fallen into the combustion chamber, I didn't want to causeing. Now this problem with the SOV and maybe fuel pump, I have no idea if engine runs properly or not since it doesn't start. As of the SOV several posts indicated code problems which are way above my head. Ever morsel of help is appreciated. Have a go further damage by cranking, decided to remove the head in order to fix the damage...if possible...and remove the rest of the plugs. All went very well. Once the head was back on I had to remove the IP and paraphernalia to fix the timing. Have a good day, Hein

 

Sorry I repeated myself, didn't realize I had elaborated on this subject before..forgive!

 

No problem. Been there done that type of thing before. No personal experience with the 606, but know it's DOHC and am pretty sure it has electronic injection timing control(1st gen. Bosch setup). Sounds like a plan for the test. I would check your flow thru the filter as suggested before. How long has it been sitting? Is your pump (supposedly) self priming? Some of the supply sides of the IP use a centrifigal vane in an eliptical cavity setup. Imagine a shaft with deep grooves cut in it and each groove has a block of metal that just fits in the groove and slides in and out of the groove as the shaft rotates, following the outer contour of the cavity due to centrifugal force. Since it's all close tolerance, it pumps fuel, as long as those blocks slide back out. I don't know if this pump uses this setup or not. I would pre fill the pump and let it sit for a while to let the fuel soften things up a bit to loosen things up as the case maybe. If it still doesn't pump fuel through, look for a drain point of some kind on the bottom of the pump. At that point, it's probably either a seal letting air in, or hardened varnish in the pump(supply side) that needs removing. Oh yeah, also make sure the pump can purge air out of the main body(It may only be a tiny hole).

 

Tested the pump as I suggested. Fuel was discharged only by drops. Obviously the pump is toast. Ordered a new one. Taken the pump apart, everything looks so new, thought I may get a repair kit but couldn't find one. Anyway, i worked the plunger (the pump is worked off the (IP) placed the pin on a hard place and pushed down in quick succession and at the same time held the finger to the intake, there was nothing that would indicate it is sucking, nor escaping. . See how the new pump performs. That still leaves the problem no power to the SOV. Hooking directly to battery power, the SOV kicks in. Any suggestions? I posted this question on several forums but no-one wants to bite. The car was immobile for 3 months and as far I know only normal Diesel fuel was used. In one of the posts I read disconnecting the battery for moments will reset the computer--is that correct?