300CD keep or sell?
#1
300CD keep or sell?
Help in WA! Need advice: my '80 300CD has new rebuild w/full warrantee. Not the same: smokes and noisy. It Really feels like a tractor now!
Have replaced #1,3,4 injctrs and now suspect fuel pump. (Don't know why they didn't use my old one!)
90K on trans.
Silver/blk very nice- $9000 paint ( except a new 3" ding lft rear panel) Interior is excellnt-new header/smooth dash. All electrical excllnt and mechanicals! ALL files.
Should I keep or replace w/ E320 or newer 300D? (need a daily nice work-horse/no-brainer/low mpg/transport capacity-4dr) how much can I get/should I spend? I'd rather not have an engine encased in plastic, but I'd also like to "up" my investment. All advice is appreciated!
[IMG]local://upfiles/29284/9616576F07314D76B2CCEF39C1E04F17.jpg[/IMG]
Have replaced #1,3,4 injctrs and now suspect fuel pump. (Don't know why they didn't use my old one!)
90K on trans.
Silver/blk very nice- $9000 paint ( except a new 3" ding lft rear panel) Interior is excellnt-new header/smooth dash. All electrical excllnt and mechanicals! ALL files.
Should I keep or replace w/ E320 or newer 300D? (need a daily nice work-horse/no-brainer/low mpg/transport capacity-4dr) how much can I get/should I spend? I'd rather not have an engine encased in plastic, but I'd also like to "up" my investment. All advice is appreciated!
[IMG]local://upfiles/29284/9616576F07314D76B2CCEF39C1E04F17.jpg[/IMG]
#3
RE: 300CD keep or sell?
Drop it off in Toledo, I'll give you $500 cash..
(shh-- maybe he feels GENEROUS!!!)..
I'd keep the old one, have the "rebuilder" make it right, or prove to you why it is..
...have them test compression-- wonder if a valve seat or two "didn't" or your rings or something else isn't worn in yet..
If it's a year warranty.. Have them test compression, have them keep a copy of the results, and you keep a copy... Tell them you'll be back at "half" the warranty-- be it miles or months... If you're still having problems, push them to retest the engine..
....Make sure you keep the oil level up, and drive it like you stole it. Maybe it just needs a good "horsewhoopin...."
If the compression is adequate, you should look at valve adjustment and pump timing.. If it's not, it doesn't hurt to check those either..
Diesels-- especially these older German IDI types, are simple as dirt..
They need air, fuel, compression and timing.. While that sounds like a lot-- the newer 'direct' and 'common rail' systems are a maze of wires and sensors, that can cause as many heartaches as they save ya.. I'm not sure what the "bluetec" emissions systems mean toward reliability-- but it's safe to assume these engines won't be doing a half a million miles like the old ones..
...and if your in Toledo, the offer is still good!
AJ RN
(shh-- maybe he feels GENEROUS!!!)..
I'd keep the old one, have the "rebuilder" make it right, or prove to you why it is..
...have them test compression-- wonder if a valve seat or two "didn't" or your rings or something else isn't worn in yet..
If it's a year warranty.. Have them test compression, have them keep a copy of the results, and you keep a copy... Tell them you'll be back at "half" the warranty-- be it miles or months... If you're still having problems, push them to retest the engine..
....Make sure you keep the oil level up, and drive it like you stole it. Maybe it just needs a good "horsewhoopin...."
If the compression is adequate, you should look at valve adjustment and pump timing.. If it's not, it doesn't hurt to check those either..
Diesels-- especially these older German IDI types, are simple as dirt..
They need air, fuel, compression and timing.. While that sounds like a lot-- the newer 'direct' and 'common rail' systems are a maze of wires and sensors, that can cause as many heartaches as they save ya.. I'm not sure what the "bluetec" emissions systems mean toward reliability-- but it's safe to assume these engines won't be doing a half a million miles like the old ones..
...and if your in Toledo, the offer is still good!
AJ RN
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06-30-2006 03:05 AM