Want to first say thanks to all the members of the forum. I've learned a lot just reading old threads.

I'm currently driving 600-700 miles a week. I have an '01 330xi that I love, but I'm burning through the miles on it, and would like to keep her around for a few more years. Thus the 300D, comfort/quiet interior, slightly better mpg without being a complete slow poke, etc.

As a result, I've semi settled on trying to find a 1987 300D. I think I have found her. 190k miles, minimal rust (literally 2-3 small spots).

The Good:

The current owner (2nd owner) just put on new Michelin's, refinished the factory rims, new fuel lines, filters, brake fluid, power steering fluid and lines, voltage regulator, serp belt. Seems to be in love with the car, but is moving and can't keep it (or so he says). $3,000.

The trap oxidizer has been removed.

The rear head rests still flip down, which is the funniest feature I've ever seen in a car.

The Bad:

I went to test drive it the other night, and the transmission was acting up in a serious way, and he seemed very surprised (he claims it has been sitting lately as a result of a new job/moving). It wasn't shifting through the gears, and when it did, it shifted hard. I had to cut my test drive short. He told me he worked on it this weekend, and has the issue partially fixed (shifting much better, but not as well as he wanted), and said it was related to vacuum issues.

The bottom engine panel was covered in oil. I didn't have time to poke around a lot, is this an area of great concern or to be expected with the territory?

Will need new pads/ (potentially rotors) in the near future.

1 of the windows doesn't go up (passenger rear), he says it is a pinched wire.

There are a few other minor issues (like the sunroof doesn't run super smooth), but overall I'm unconcerned.

ADVICE:

Could the trans issue be as simple as a vac leak? From what I have read, the transmissions seem to be solid. Chances it is the pump? I've looked at the prices for a new pump, but is it a big job? How much time would it take to replace most/all vac lines? I don't mind spending a weekend or two doing some DIY projects, but I don't want a project car.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

 

What ever amount of DIY you have previously done on Cars I think you are going to find the Mercedes is going to keep you busy for about 1 year or 2 till it gets straightened out.

I think unless you found one that is exceptional (and it does not seem like this one is it) as a daily drive you are better off with your other vehicle.

You could get the Mercedes as a Hobby Car and see how that works out.

However, it sounds like this particular car has too may issues to begin with. And, you can also have Winter Starting issues depending on how cold it gets where you live and work.

Also there is areas under these Cars where the suspension attachment points that are know to rust through and require welding and so on. You need to get the belly pan off and see what is going on under there.

The type of Fuel Injection Pump that it has uses O-rings to seal the Fuel in at the top and a few other places in the Fuel System. When the O-rings go bad You will need a special Socket and need to instructions to the letter and keep everything extremely Clean on order to DIY it.
And from reading on other Forums in the last 2 years several people have managed to damage their Fuel Injection Pumps.

 

So things like the rear window going up are not of concern to me. The engine is quiet (being a diesel) and has good tires. He used it as his DD until about a month ago. If it runs and stops, I'm happy for now. The trans is what I'm unsure of.

I'll take off the belly pan and scope that out.

The trans issue is the big issue I'm worried about. The oil on the belly pan could just be from a lifetime or it could be something serious.

Thanks for the advice!

 

From my point of view, the $3000 price tag for a "pig in a poke" is a big gamble. If it was "just a vacuum problem", why didn't he fix it?? As for the "pinched" wire, why not "unpinch" it and fix the problem. The fact that you had to stop your test ride because the car could not preform properly should be a major warning sign. If you feel that you want to put up 3 grand and possibly end up with a black hole that will suck your wallet dry thats your decision to make. Good luck!!!

 

If I go for another test drive (which I might at the end of the week) and the trans works fine, should I quit worrying about it?

I'm certainly taking the advice to not buy a hole to throw money into, but at some point buying an old benz seems like a gamble.

How much should I be looking to spend for a car I have little/no work to do to it?

 

I think what the other Member was saying that buying a used Mercedes is more of a gamble than buying a used Toyota or Nissan.
As an example suppose something on the Road ripped the Boot on one of your CV Axles. Besides the Dealer there is no quality replacements for them.
The Asian Made replacements have a poor reputation.

You can re-boot it yourself but you are going to find there is no Quick/Split Boot for them. You info on where to get the Boots and how to replace the Boots is going to come from one of the Mercedes Forums.
What that means is there is going to be a time lag to get it back on the Road.
If it was a US or Japanese Car you could likely afford to buy an New Axle from the Dealer and the price would be more reasonable. Or, that split Boot would be available for them.

Mine has spent a lot of time sitting in the Drive way waiting to be fixed because the cheapest Place to get quality Parts is on the internet, or it had wait because I had to find and learn the information needed to fix it and some time I had to wait for a Special Tool or Make a Tool to get the Job done.

The Haynes or Chilton Manuals are not sufficient for much more than Oil Changes and such. The various Mercedes Forums have more and better info in them.

 

Went and checked the car out again. Owner replaced vacuum lines, car shifts perfectly now. Car will need brakes (is there a brake sensor that is known to go bad?) but is safe/fine for now. Ballpark cost on brakes/rotors?

The cruise didn't want to work for me during the test drive, but it could have been me not initiating it properly. How much of a headache is it to troubleshoot/fix the cruise?

Heads are #14. Should this be a deal breaker?

 

I don't know enough to comment on the Cylinder Head.

The older Models have Brake Pad Wear Indicators that when the indicator makes contact with the Rotor a Light on the instrument cluster goes one and there may also be a low Brake Fluid Indicator tied into hat.

 

Just as an update to anyone with this issue in the future.

I bought the 300D for $2700. Super minimal rust, new tires, fair amount of service records etc.

Thought the trans issue (not shifting up properly) was a vac issue. Seller replaced a few vac lines, issue disappeared, I purchased the car. Only to have the issue reappear shortly thereafter. After a bit more research, I narrowed it down to the kickdown switch. It is super easy to take out and replace ($15). Problem solved!

Car was also having a bit of trouble starting in colder weather. Replaced the glow plugs. Not the quickest/easiest DIY project, but nothing to be scared of. Just make sure you have the proper tools prior to starting.

Now it is time to log some serious miles and hopefully work out all the smaller bugs/issues (like rear windows not working).

 

Congratulations on getting things sorted out, and good luck with your car!!!!