This hose cracked off at the intake, (other end goes to brake booster) and I can't figure out how to get the end that goes to the intake out- it just spins and spins, and the one plastic piece to grab onto to pull keeps cracking off, now there is barely anything left.


The yellow piece near my index finger is where it broke off at the intake.

Any ideas on how to remove it?

I plugged the intake so the car will at least idle, but there is no power to the brakes.

 

Montero that little yellow plastic peice,, use to be a nipple/fitting that the brake booster vacumn line connected to.. You see the broken nipple in the end of the hose in one of your pics, the other end is what you want out, so you can install a new nipple/fitting and hose....... Sounds like not much of thefitting left to grab or work with. That broken end pushes into a rubber grommet ifI remember correctly? I am not 100%.. Heres some tricks.. Take a large, short lag bolt (wood screw) that just fits inside the broken end and thread in lightly and pull.. If the fitting is threaded this may expand the broken end of fitting enough to catch somethreads.. once bolt is in either pull or turn broken fitting out.
Your lag bolt, basically would be about a 1/4 to 3/8's diameter and about inch to inch and a quarter in length. really coarse wood type threads. you could heat bolt to help it cut threads in broken end of fitting.

If you have to resort to just nibbling away at broken fitting to remove you might want to put some grease inside fitting to stop loose peices from going into intake. the size of hole is about the same as end of grease gun so shoot a pump in there before you nibble,chip,grind,cut or burn broken fitting.
When fitting is out, take your wifes vacumn cleaner and put that little attachment for getting in between the cracks of furniture and suck grease out, believe me it will work as long as wife has maintained vacumn cleaner..
Replace fitting and line.. Look at other connectors &hoses for brittle cracked condition. Now would be the time to fix them..
Good Luck Dumokie

 

Sounds like a plan- if that doesn't work for some reason, is it possible to pry the piece off the intake with a screwdriver? The piece that keeps spinning around and around is black, and sits right up against the intake- Does that piece stay on, and the innards are what I'm taking out? Am I just removing the yellow inside? It looks like the hose can be salvaged if I get the broken nipple out, so what exactly will I be replacing, just the fitting?

 

Monero1,
As Dumokie states the broken part is the connector (nipple) between the vac pipe and the manifold.
This fitting is heat shrink into the hose and usually push fit into a grommet in the manifold. However it may well be threaded at the manifold end.
This part, being part of a primary SAFETY system, is intended to be non repairable and I suggest changing the whole component.
You don't want any repair to give way at a CRITICAL moment and loose your power assist to the brakes!

I don't think you will find that this component is terribly expensive for the peace of mind that it will provide.

If you must repair it Dumokie has provided some good tips but you will still be presented with the problem of how to join the tube to the manifold since I will be VERY surprised if you are able to purchase this on its own. Likely you will have to find one in a breakers yard in which case you may as well change the complete hose.

Good luck,

Stuart

 

snanceki- When you say "replace the whole component", what part are you referring to? I'm not at all trying to be a cheapie, I would really like to replace the whole piece that goes into the manifold, not just the innards. I'm sure the connector would be all of $2, but there is some type of grommet that sits up against the manifold that I would like to remove, to make sure all of the connector is out. I might have a better understanding of how it comes apart once I go to buy the new hose and connector, and maybe see an exploded view of it all.

 

Montero1,
OK, I'll have another go.

The vac pipe which runs from the engine to the servo has two ends.
On the servo end there is a yellow (maybe white) one way valve which is heat shrunk to the vac pipe (rigid plastic) and pushes into a rubber grommet which in turn is pushed into the servo casing.
At the engine end the servo pipe is attached (at least on my UK320) by what looks like a collet fixing. With this type of fixing the end of the pipe simply pushes into a fixing in the manifold which once pushed home prevents the pipe from being withdrawn by pulling alone. To remove the pipe once entered into the collet it is necessary to depress a ring surrounding where the pipe enters the manifold adaptor/collet.
Unfortunately I do not have a detail diagram.
From your description of the problem I'm confused because you refer to a yellow plastic device which in my experience is at the servo end. Just maybe your "release ring" or pipe end connection happens to be yellow rather than black.
Basically I suggest you get the new part and all should then become clear (er). The collet adaptor should be reuseable unless it has been damaged with your attempts to dislodge the remaining end portionof the pipe.
Hope this helps.

Stuart.

 

The ring you have to depress fell off- Take a look at the picture, near my index finger- that yellow piece is what I need to get out, which is in the manifold, though surrounded by a blackcircular casingthat seems as though it should come off as well, but just spins around- I'm hoping that removing the center will allow me to not have to remove that black case around where the connector goes in to the manifold.

 

Montero1,

I've actually gone to my car to look in detail.

Your picture No1 shows the broken yellow coloured plastic in the end of the vac pipe. This is IMHO is not (at least not intended to be) repairable.
Your picture No2 shows the broken manifold end of the pipe. However I note:
a. The MAF has been removed (presumably for clarity).
b. The end of the vac pipe is nowhere near where it connects to on the manifold.

The broken off end of the pipe DOES fit into a collet fixing. To remove the bit that remains in the collet you need to press a little "tit" that sticks out of the side of the collet then pull the pipe out possibly using a threaded insert as per Dumokie siggestion if there is nothing to get hold of.

Are we on the same wavelength now?

For further clarity the black circular thing that you refer to does not need to be removed. It is the collet adaptor. Just press the "tit": that stick out of the side to release the pipe subject to Dumokie thread idea.

Best I can do I'm afraid.

Stuart

 

Thanks for the replies- I got it all taken care of-

Getting the broken hose connector out of the intake took almost 40 minutes, a lot of cursing, and a few threats to set the whole car on fire. Thank God this thing is my wifes and not mine. Finally got it all out using a screwdriver, a drill bit, and some WD-40. Never saw the tit you mentioned depressing, but it's all out now, on to the dealer for parts.

 

Whoo Hoo we got it!!
Not to further confuse, but if for some reason you can not get the molded plastic vacumn line, you should use fuel line designed for the fuel injection system as line/hose,it is thicker,meaner,tougher and like JohnWayne and won't take no crap offa no buddy.. No seriously it is resistant to heat, chemical break down, and collapse due to vacumn. Don't use standardfuel line hose. Buy heavy 90 degree,45 degree vacumn connectors or whatever combination you needto make hose route properly. That is a critical vacumn source for obvious safety reasons.
I myself cut corners where I can, because I have a running love/hate relation with the ****** at local M.B., Jag. Dealership..Its always an adventure when ordering those molded hoses and parts similiar to them..At least for me......
I try to work on European cars specifically andLove em, but I have parts woes.. Thank god for these forums.
Did youdo close inspection of other vacumn lines, hoses, fittings, grommets, Etc.
I am curious what cause part "hose/fitting"to originally break??
Also just given a screaming SLK230 site and I know thats not what you have, but wonder if there is other model coverage there. Its about the best I have seen. Heck probably everyone already knew about it except me. Anywayheres link.
http://www.buellwinkle.com/r170/

Dumokie