I have a 95 SL320 that is apparently leaking convertible top hydraulic oil although i can not find out from where. I replaced the small ram over the windshield about a year ago. I topped off the fluid at that time. Recently the top would not close without manual help. I ck'd the fluid and it was down a liter. Again i topped it off and it worked fine for about 2-3 times and again the fluid is way down but i have no sign of leak. Can anyone tell how to locate the leak?

 

If the fluid is not leaking into the car near the visor rods, then it's probably one of the rear cylinders, the distribution valve block or a line. Look around the wheel wells, and under the car.

 

Thanx i did find the leak where you said it would be after taking the trunk trim pieces out. It appears to be a high pressure line ... it sprays when the top is operating although i can not see the source. Do you know where i can find a R & R procedure with dwgs or pics. Thanx

 

Ray,
Nice detective work-
This link will take you to a site run by MB Club of Russia that contains a number of schematics of the systems in our cars. Have your VIN# ready to key in so that the correct schematics are displayed.

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/cat...&client=dr2000

When the page opens, you'll have a cholce of a number of systems to look at;
the one you want is Group 80, Hydraulic and Vacuum System. Opening that page will give you further obvious choices of the entire system and sub components.

As far as R&R steps/procedures, another Forum member may be better qualified than me to help you with that. If you're going to have the cylinders rebuilt, the individual most often used by 129 owners is:


I think Dennis has the R&R steps if no one else replies to your post. He rebuilds your cylinders, warrants for 3yrs, and charges about 1/3 the cost of buying new ones, and turns the work around very quickly, most often, a couple days.
Good Luck

 

My 97 SL500 is leaking oil at the left side visor rod. How do I track this leak source down?
Thanks.

 

The 'source' is the hydraulic cylinder's seal that activates the left side latch has split and is leaking fluid. The step x step instructions to remove both of the front cylinders are here...

These cylinders should always be rebuilt in pairs, as repairing just 1 will put added hydraulic pressure on the remaing one, then that seal will probably go. Once you have them both out of the car, you can send them to the rebuilder I posted above. His charges for rebuilding are about 1/3 of what a new cylinder would cost...and they work!

One last thing, if you've lost enough fluid so that the pump reservoir has to be replenished, you can buy the expensive MB branded fluid, or Febi-Bilstien Fluid, p/n#02615; same stuff for less from any of the online MB parts sellers.

Good Luck

Bob

 

Can someone share with me the procedure for flushing the hydraulic self-leveling system. I understand that this should be done every couple of years and the filter changed. I understand the you can use the Febi-Bilstien Fluid, p/n#02615 instead if the MB brand.
Does anyone know if there is a aftermarket filter available or only MB filter ordered from the dealer?
Does that procedure flush the entire hydraulic system? Top and self-leveling system?
Thank you for any advice

 

You cylinders that acuate the latches are where the oil is coming from I just had mine rebuilt and i invested less than 2 hours of my time to remove and replace. the rebuild was only $50 per cylinder

 

The Russian site is great ...for us do- it yourself types. I have a big puddle that showed up when I went to close it in the driveway I think may just be the High pressure line - I will dismantle after work today.

 

Was it the high pressure line?