black/pink or sometimes other colors, vaccum pods. They develop leaks and cause those types of problems. Or leaks in the vaccum hose that connects them. There is about 4 or five of them. Three are easy to get to. One in the passenger foot well can be reached by removing the trim around the glove box in the foot well. The other two can be reached by removing the trim on the passenger footwell near the center console. The last is a pai nto get to. One can be seen but can be hard to reach and I think there is one on the other side of the ac/heat box assembly that requires a little more time to get to.

 

Window Regulator problem fix.
"This is usually a $5 bugger of a piece of plastic that is on the sliding jaw."
I have made a replacement from 1 inch x 1/8 inch thick aluminum bar stock I picked up at Home Depot. (This fits perfectly into the channel attached to the bottom of the glass))
You have to make a rectangular piece about the same length as the plastic piece. Counter sink a 1/2 inch (approx) hole 1/32" deep in the center then drill 1/8 inch hole through the center of your counter sunk hole. Now from the bottom center of your rectangle (long side) saw a 1/8" slot to the center of the small hole. The object is to allow for the holes to match the rivet the is welded into the arm of the regulator (sliding Jaw). There is a spring washer on that rivet so when you slide the aluminum part you just made the spring washer will push it toward the rivet head thus preventing it from coming off. The best thing with this fix is that you do not have to remove any of the window mechanism from the door just grease the part and channel liberally. I have mine working now for at least 15 years. Noodles

 

hey guys. I have a big problem right now. I just yesterday noticed a few things with the car, most notably that when i used my power window controls the power to my engine would cut out and my radio no longer worked. My head lights and compartment lights also dimmed right down and the RPMs would not go past 2500 and at 2500 the engine would choke and sputter. I pulled off to the side of the road and shut the car off and it would not turn over again, it wouldnt even try. I still had lights however and the starter would click when i would attempt to turn it over. I had a guy who parked infront of me boost me with no troubles and we made it home. The car is now dead in my driveway with the same issues. I found a recipt for the battery which is not even a year old and has a 6 year warrenty on it. I may take it back to canadian tire to get tested, but Im worried I blew my alternator while driving. what do you think?

 

sounds like the alternator to me. You can pull it off and take it to a parts store... a lot of them will test it for nothing.

 

If it's your alternator it may just be the Internal Alternator Voltage Regulator which is easy to replace with out removing the alternator.

 

thanks guys for the feed back, i had a buddy of mine who is a mechanic come by with a volt meter and check things out. he said that while idling the alternator is working ok, but as soon as i put up the rev's she stops charging anything and i start running off pure battery power

 

Help
We are replacing our seat switch - passaenger side - we have one too many wires. Ready to solder and now what do we do with the extra? I read somewhere that you can combine the extra? What do we combine it with. If anyone can help, please. Car is sitting apart. Thnks
masha1@aol.com
much appreciated

 

masha, I sent you an email with a schematic for that switch. Hope you got it. Noodles

 

Thanks for the info.
I have a 1990 MB 420 SEL with a high-idle problem. I see this problem all over the place for this vintage of MB. There is no definitive answer I could find. I have replaced relays, I am currently waiting for an Idle Valve, etc.

What's the problem with this idle thing? MB must know about it, because everyone who owns this vintage has or will have this problem. When I put mine in Drive or Reverse, the Idle goes to about 600-700. When it is in Park or Neutral, the Idle goes to 2000. What changes from the gear shifting?

 

My 1991 420SEL did the same thing (idled high in neutral or park). I think the reason is just the lack of load on the engine. When it's in gear with a slight load, the idle speed seems to be regulated better.

The problem with the high idle in neutral (at least where I am in California) is that it can interfere with an emissions test.

I had success in getting the idle speed down by adjusting the mixture screw that is located in the little opening in the top of the air-cleaner cover. You use an allen wrench (3mm, maybe?). The adjustment screw is spring-loaded, so you push down on it and then turn it slightly. It should be done with the air-cleaner in place, and closed up.

I'm forgetting from memory which direction is which (in terms of leaner/richer), but seem to think that it was counter-intuitive to me. So that probably means that CW was richer, and CCW was leaner (since I would have thought that the other way would have been more logical). But I could be wrong....

In any case, one way or the other will bring the idle speed down. I just needed to get mine down to below 850 rpm for emissions-testing purposes, and I set it at 750 to 800 rpm (it then drops to 600 in drive or reverse). If you go too low in neutral, it will cause some stumbling when you first accelerate. Do things in small increments (quarter turn or less) once you get close. Also, it's a good idea to record how many turns you are doing, so you can always get back to where you started. It shouldn't be more than a turn or two, so if you go in one direction and the idle speed doesn't start lowering pretty soon, go back and try the other direction. (And maybe someone will chime in with which direction is which). Also, try searching on this forum for idle mixture adjustment, or similar....