2000 S500 airmatic problem
#11
11-11-2008, 10:07 AM
RE: 2000 S500 airmatic problem
Thanks for the comments.
RE: Airmatic
Car rose right up with new relay and compressor. Perhaps the motor works on the old compressor but doesn't push out air. I will test it and see when I get a chance. I"ll let you know what I find out. Perhaps as you say there is another reason for the problem. If so then it may blow the fuse again. Perhaps I have a leak and the compressor was working too hard. How do I check if I have a small leak on the front struts which I read is common on early S500's???.
RE: Engine warning lights/Codes
I have no way of looking at the waveform. I only have the autoxray unit.
If the reading on sensor 2 is too high on both sensors, then could it be the MAF sensor? and
What about switching both of the #1 sensors?
Dom
RE: Airmatic
Car rose right up with new relay and compressor. Perhaps the motor works on the old compressor but doesn't push out air. I will test it and see when I get a chance. I"ll let you know what I find out. Perhaps as you say there is another reason for the problem. If so then it may blow the fuse again. Perhaps I have a leak and the compressor was working too hard. How do I check if I have a small leak on the front struts which I read is common on early S500's???.
RE: Engine warning lights/Codes
I have no way of looking at the waveform. I only have the autoxray unit.
If the reading on sensor 2 is too high on both sensors, then could it be the MAF sensor? and
What about switching both of the #1 sensors?
Dom
#12
11-12-2008, 12:41 AM
RE: 2000 S500 airmatic problem
Hi Dom,
So it looks like the pump didn't work when connected directly. Glad the issue is now sorted.
Slow leak.
Just see if the car is low (white warning on dash message centre) in the mornning. If not then even if there is a leak it is an "acceptable" one. Even when new there is an specified amount of leakage allowed.
If the seal at the top of the strut is leaking you will hear it and also see a crack in the black mastic at the top of the strut from under the hood.
Stuart
So it looks like the pump didn't work when connected directly. Glad the issue is now sorted.
Slow leak.
Just see if the car is low (white warning on dash message centre) in the mornning. If not then even if there is a leak it is an "acceptable" one. Even when new there is an specified amount of leakage allowed.
If the seal at the top of the strut is leaking you will hear it and also see a crack in the black mastic at the top of the strut from under the hood.
Stuart
#13
11-12-2008, 01:07 AM
RE: 2000 S500 airmatic problem
Haven't got enough info to add much more.
However I go with the change the O2 sensor(s) side to side so long as you are a DIYer and "time is not expensive".
The question is do the codes change as the sensors move from side to side?
Likewise you can change sensor 1 for sensor 2.
This is a rather "low tech" approach but valid especially if cost is important.
An MB dealer would most probably change all four sensors and the MAF and HOPEFULLY say... Problem solved that's 1000 USD or some similar cost!
Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes"
The reason it is difficult to decide between the sensor and the MAF is that all these parts work as a system. The components have feedback (closed loop) so if the sensors are faulty this sends the wrong signal to the ECU which can cause the MAF (LTFT Long Term Fuel Trim or Adaptation) to be out of range.
However the MAF being faulty/ out of range can impact the ECU since the signal from the O2 sensors is not in range.
SMALL differences between the RH and LH systems can make one side look faulty whereas in fact both are extremely close to the limiting tolerance. This impacts the results you might get from changing the sensors side to side.
IF I had to make a decision...I would go for the MAF.
Ensure you purchase genuine MB / Bosch parts.
Stuart
However I go with the change the O2 sensor(s) side to side so long as you are a DIYer and "time is not expensive".
The question is do the codes change as the sensors move from side to side?
Likewise you can change sensor 1 for sensor 2.
This is a rather "low tech" approach but valid especially if cost is important.
An MB dealer would most probably change all four sensors and the MAF and HOPEFULLY say... Problem solved that's 1000 USD or some similar cost!
Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes"
The reason it is difficult to decide between the sensor and the MAF is that all these parts work as a system. The components have feedback (closed loop) so if the sensors are faulty this sends the wrong signal to the ECU which can cause the MAF (LTFT Long Term Fuel Trim or Adaptation) to be out of range.
However the MAF being faulty/ out of range can impact the ECU since the signal from the O2 sensors is not in range.
SMALL differences between the RH and LH systems can make one side look faulty whereas in fact both are extremely close to the limiting tolerance. This impacts the results you might get from changing the sensors side to side.
IF I had to make a decision...I would go for the MAF.
Ensure you purchase genuine MB / Bosch parts.
Stuart
#14
11-12-2008, 12:22 PM
RE: 2000 S500 airmatic problem
Thanks everyone for the help on the air suspension. I looked at the car this morning and its not low so if there are any leaks they may be acceptable as Stuart has suggested. If anyone needs help in the future with the airmatic PM me. I've got a working knowledge of it now.
Regarding the warning lights, I'm still working on it.
Stuart wrote: "Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes" I couldn't agree more! That's why I do it myself. No offense to techs. I went through that with my last mercedes. They wanted to change every part on the engine and still couldn't guarantee that it would solve the problem. It was dying at idle. I looked on this forum and with some help changed the MAS. In less than 1 hour the problem was solved and never came back. The surprising thing was that the MAS was not on the list of things they wanted to change. WOW!
I've had some luck cleaning the MAF sensor on other cars. They even sell a spray for that purpose at the supply stores. Has anyone else had any luck with this?
Stuart, I think your right about the MAF sensor. Perhaps that is the culprit. I'll try cleaning it first and then perhaps replace it. I could try switching the sensors like I suggested first. I am a DIY. How hard are they to change? Also, are they 2, 3, 4 wire units?
Dom
Regarding the warning lights, I'm still working on it.
Stuart wrote: "Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes" I couldn't agree more! That's why I do it myself. No offense to techs. I went through that with my last mercedes. They wanted to change every part on the engine and still couldn't guarantee that it would solve the problem. It was dying at idle. I looked on this forum and with some help changed the MAS. In less than 1 hour the problem was solved and never came back. The surprising thing was that the MAS was not on the list of things they wanted to change. WOW!
I've had some luck cleaning the MAF sensor on other cars. They even sell a spray for that purpose at the supply stores. Has anyone else had any luck with this?
Stuart, I think your right about the MAF sensor. Perhaps that is the culprit. I'll try cleaning it first and then perhaps replace it. I could try switching the sensors like I suggested first. I am a DIY. How hard are they to change? Also, are they 2, 3, 4 wire units?
Dom
#15
11-12-2008, 10:46 PM
RE: 2000 S500 airmatic problem
O2 sensor wire count?
Most probably 4 but I can't remember / never really taken note.
MAF is expensive and doesn't always respond to cleaning. I like to be 100% before I spend any money.
I'd go for moving the O2 sensors around first if you are OK with this since the extra info post change will give confidence to decision.
MB's are VERY sensitive to the correct type O2 sensor so don't buy any ebay type stuff. Likewise MAF.
If you are "techy" I'd invest in a better scanner. Having live feed displayed as graph etc (eg waveform) is very useful. Can your scanner read Long Term Fuel Trim? Your vehicle supports it. Thus is an additional indicator of the health of the fuelling closed loop. Once it reaches circa 30 you pass a threshold and the P0170 / 173 codes are set.
Most probably 4 but I can't remember / never really taken note.
MAF is expensive and doesn't always respond to cleaning. I like to be 100% before I spend any money.
I'd go for moving the O2 sensors around first if you are OK with this since the extra info post change will give confidence to decision.
MB's are VERY sensitive to the correct type O2 sensor so don't buy any ebay type stuff. Likewise MAF.
If you are "techy" I'd invest in a better scanner. Having live feed displayed as graph etc (eg waveform) is very useful. Can your scanner read Long Term Fuel Trim? Your vehicle supports it. Thus is an additional indicator of the health of the fuelling closed loop. Once it reaches circa 30 you pass a threshold and the P0170 / 173 codes are set.
#16
02-28-2019, 06:35 PM
Problem with Airmatic Connector - 2005 S430
Thanks everyone for the help on the air suspension. I looked at the car this morning and its not low so if there are any leaks they may be acceptable as Stuart has suggested. If anyone needs help in the future with the airmatic PM me. I've got a working knowledge of it now.
Regarding the warning lights, I'm still working on it.
Stuart wrote: "Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes" I couldn't agree more! That's why I do it myself. No offense to techs. I went through that with my last mercedes. They wanted to change every part on the engine and still couldn't guarantee that it would solve the problem. It was dying at idle. I looked on this forum and with some help changed the MAS. In less than 1 hour the problem was solved and never came back. The surprising thing was that the MAS was not on the list of things they wanted to change. WOW!
I've had some luck cleaning the MAF sensor on other cars. They even sell a spray for that purpose at the supply stores. Has anyone else had any luck with this?
Stuart, I think your right about the MAF sensor. Perhaps that is the culprit. I'll try cleaning it first and then perhaps replace it. I could try switching the sensors like I suggested first. I am a DIY. How hard are they to change? Also, are they 2, 3, 4 wire units?
Dom
Regarding the warning lights, I'm still working on it.
Stuart wrote: "Their time is charged mega expensive because of their "extensive product knowledge!" However they tend to just change "black boxes" I couldn't agree more! That's why I do it myself. No offense to techs. I went through that with my last mercedes. They wanted to change every part on the engine and still couldn't guarantee that it would solve the problem. It was dying at idle. I looked on this forum and with some help changed the MAS. In less than 1 hour the problem was solved and never came back. The surprising thing was that the MAS was not on the list of things they wanted to change. WOW!
I've had some luck cleaning the MAF sensor on other cars. They even sell a spray for that purpose at the supply stores. Has anyone else had any luck with this?
Stuart, I think your right about the MAF sensor. Perhaps that is the culprit. I'll try cleaning it first and then perhaps replace it. I could try switching the sensors like I suggested first. I am a DIY. How hard are they to change? Also, are they 2, 3, 4 wire units?
Dom
I have a similar problem and not sure what to do. Airmatic pump not turning on. Fuses are fine. Relay is working. Connector at the pump is not getting power. Thoughts? Is there something wrong with the electrical line between the fuse box and the connector to the pump? Any help would be great.
#17
04-30-2019, 12:30 PM
OK I replaced the 40 amp fuse and still there is not power going to the plug. I checked the fuse again and its not blown but power is still not going to the compressor. Why isn't 12 volts going to the compressor? Even if the compressor is not pumping out air it should still be on when connected to the plug, shouldn't Dom
#18
06-18-2021, 06:26 PM
Mmmm.
Tell me more about the history on this problem. When, how did this problem start?
OK the pump runs. However dependent upon the type of charger you used it may not have supplied sufficient power to run the motor at full speed / power.
Next step is to determine the pressure of the air in the line coming out of the pump / reservoir. No pressure = no lift = dead compressor rather than motor. There is a one way valve inside the compressor that wears out.
No power to the compressor?
Surprising that the pump / compressor is dead AS WELL as no supply and that the fuse has also blown. Why did the fuse blow if the pump works OK. Something not quite right here which is why I have asked for history. Did this car go wrong whilst you owned it or have you bought a wreck or similar. If so ANYTHING (and everything) could be wrong!!
Dependent upon your skills tracing a fault in the control system of the compressor is not a simple task. Best get the codes read by an MB dealer which will pinpoint the exact cause.
The usual scenario is a pump that has worn out because it is working too hard in order to stem a leak in the system which is usually located in the suspension strut top mounts.
Lots of posts about this.
New struts are mega money although a repair kit is available for the top mount.
Stuart
Tell me more about the history on this problem. When, how did this problem start?
OK the pump runs. However dependent upon the type of charger you used it may not have supplied sufficient power to run the motor at full speed / power.
Next step is to determine the pressure of the air in the line coming out of the pump / reservoir. No pressure = no lift = dead compressor rather than motor. There is a one way valve inside the compressor that wears out.
No power to the compressor?
Surprising that the pump / compressor is dead AS WELL as no supply and that the fuse has also blown. Why did the fuse blow if the pump works OK. Something not quite right here which is why I have asked for history. Did this car go wrong whilst you owned it or have you bought a wreck or similar. If so ANYTHING (and everything) could be wrong!!
Dependent upon your skills tracing a fault in the control system of the compressor is not a simple task. Best get the codes read by an MB dealer which will pinpoint the exact cause.
The usual scenario is a pump that has worn out because it is working too hard in order to stem a leak in the system which is usually located in the suspension strut top mounts.
Lots of posts about this.
New struts are mega money although a repair kit is available for the top mount.
Stuart
I have a 2000 s500 and I am having problems with "drum roll" airmatic. (AIRMATIC- VISIT WORKSHOP). One of my rear corners sits very high and the ride is tough. The fault code goes off the minute I turn the car off and it will drive without fault code/warning for almost 15 to 20 miles before comes back. I can't hear the pump work at all whether I try to lift the car or when the car is off. The ride hight has not changed and is stuck in the current position. I asked the dealership for a diagnose quote and was told $168.50 +tax to begin with and if it goes over an hour they will call before they continue with the diagnosis. I know for a fact that the relay works because I swapped it with an exact one in the same bay and nothing has changed . I checked the 40 amp fuse as well and everything looks fine. I see airmatic pumps/compressors on internet for as low as $120 dollars ( I will buy an original/oem part) and I am wondering if spending the money for the diagnosis is a good investment. I am pretty handy when it comes to getting my hands dirty with some grease(if it will take a pro 25 min to change the pump, it might take me 1.5 hours due to lack of a lift and specific tools). I am just wondering if any of you has come across something like this and what steps/action did you take and the outcome of such actions/steps. Anything helps. I thank you.
Respectfully,
Al
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