regarding a 1990 300e

1: nofault codes will be set without the check engine light on
2: there is a oil drain plug on the oil pan so you can change the oil in a conventional fashion
3:if there is no check engine light presentit means you need a general tune up...cap, rotor, plugs
4: thefolks that told methat the O2 sensor is the first thing to set the check engine light were of the highest order, so that if no check engine light on...tune up in order
5: the oil top feed pump removal issue is junk
6: my local rip-off non mercedes repair shop wanted $110/hr to look for 'historical codes' so they said...this is all a rip off
7: $110 an hour? what is this...brain surgery?

Cliff

 

so, tell me how I may be wrong on this...thanks...cliff

 

Cliff,

I think if the check engine light is not lid especially when you put the key in the ignition to switch and not to turn the engine to start, then I assume the bulb is burn.

 

no, the bulb is NOT burned out...but thanks for the idea...cliff

 

this is not what I am looking for here...I gotta be honest...I am looking for similar experiences that may help me, not comments as to what I am seeing...I know whatI am seeing, I am looking for advice as to what I am NOT seeing and should...Thanks...Cliff

 

Hi Cliff,

Not clear what the original question was.

However i don't agree entirely with your findings.

I note that your vehicle is 1990. i don't have any specific knowledge of this vehicle so my response MAY not be entirely valid. However...

Not yet come across a car without a conventional drain plug for the oil. Why did you even think it didn'y have one or was it the presence of the aerodynamic under shielding which hid the bottom of the engine? Oil drain thru the filler neck is an American centric procedure which although time saving has certain drawbacks.. Europe prefers to do it the conventional" way.

On OBDII you can have codes which are saved but which do not illuminate the CEL. These are known as "Pending" whilst others are referred to as "Stored". so the guy who say he will look for historical codes is correct.
On MB vehicles since about 1996 you would be surprised the extent of codes that are in the historical memory and although you are talking about the eng/trans don't forget the other 20+ ECU's scattered around the vehicle. Note: The CEL is linked with the eng/trans ECU and not these additional ones.
If the CEL is ON a code has been set but it is POSSIBLE that if the CEL is OFF that a code MAY be present.
The CEL basically advises that an important code has been set and requires attention to correct it otherwise the vehicle is not compliant with emissions legislation. Some codes do not light the CEL.

CEL "bulbs" now use hard wired LED to discourage removal and to improve reliability,. Interestingly it is possible to switch OFF the CEL function in software on some USA market variants. Incredible! However, your vehicle will not pass the smog test if the CEL is inoperative for whatever reason.

Your 1990 model is not OBDII (Standarised On Board Diagnostics) compliant and as a consequence the functionality of the diagnostic system is less well developed than OBDII compliant vehicles. Its exact working and its interface capability and comprehensiveness are not known to me.

"the oil top feed pump removal issue is junk" Not sure what this is all about. Maybe that is why you have managed to determine that it is junk!

110 USD/hour work rate. Try 119 GBP/hour in the UK and specificallyt in the London area approaching 200USD.
I agree that it isn't brain surgery but thats the result of a "free" market" which to you guys in the USA is the meaning of life.

Hope this additional tidbit is useful.

Stuart.

 

Cliff, do yourself a BIG favor and BUY the Bently owner service book for your car. I just got mine and short of the details for a complete engine rebuild, it has all the stuff, pictures and directions that a good good home wrench will want. It's WAY better than all these online site offering reprints of MB service procedures. I suckered for that twice, "suckered" being the pejorative word.

I've done both the oil change with the plug and power suction with a compressor driven evacuator (don't even consider buying the 'hand pump' model). If the idea bothers you to evacuate the oil through the dipstick, then do it the 'old' way. If I have a drain plug in my '92, then certainly you do as well.

Kevin

 

thanks for the advise...can you buy the Bentley manual at any retail outlets like borders or such? I know bentley is excellent and have been trying to fix/repair the MB based upon general german automotive repair experience (VW, BMW, Audi) but, obviously the MB is somewhat different from these. Reason I say conventional drain plug is that I can find oil pan drain plugs for around $3...shouldn't the car have come with the suction device then? it had every thing else, the tool and first aid kits are complete yet no oil change pump...plus the original owners manual makes no mention of this item so I am confused.Appreciate the help...cliff

 

Cliff,
I don't think they ever come with a suction device (mine did not), as it's the prerogative of the dealer if they want to change the oil that way. I don't see MB helpful in ANY way for those of us that want to wrench on our own cars-their staple for yrs has been to rape the customer for extensive repair recommendations and like the advice from a doctor, most consent. Pitty, because it's padded the legend that they are 'special' and only serviceable by a dealer. Anything built by men (or in this case, German men) can be serviced and maintained. You just need the right information.

I got my Bentley manual from :http://www.autohausaz.com/
thanks to ohlord's recommendation of a good parts house-found the manual in there quite by accident. The only thing negative I can say about it is that I wish there was a complete section on drivetrain rebuilding. Short of that it's excellent. There's even a way to fix your wiring harness rather than replace the whole thing as is common procedure. I still have my Bentley manual for the last E Type Jag-if you were stranded on a tropical island with that car, metric tools and that book, you could keep an E Type running forever.

The way I used to change the oil in the wagon; take off the protective road pan, drive up on ramps, find drain plug and unscrew with 13mm wrench (on the 4matic, it's the plug on the larger of the two pans.) Drain all oil out and remove the filter. Put the plug back in, reinstall the protective pan, roll the car off the ramps(or put close to the recommended amount of oil back in the engine so you can drive off) and reinstall a new filter. Start the car and let it run till normal operating temp, shut off and check level on flat surface-top up.

Really no different than any other car except for that road pan-be careful not to over tighten those little bolts, as they don't take much to hold them in place. I've never seen one of those loosen up and fall out, however. The female part is easily replaceable and it's very possible that your pan will fall away or be pulled out with them still attached. Not to worry, unscrew them and drive them back into the frame holders from whence they came.

I evacuate my engine oil now with a compressor, the MityVac evacuator and the dipstick suction tube. Set-up was about $100 delivered (using my own compressor, of course). I got the deluxe evacuator that can power bleed the brakes as well. You have to do that with an ABS/ASR system to bleed the brakes. I'm a little worried about metal particulates left in the bottom of the engine oil pan, so I think I'll conventionally drain the oil every other time-magnetic drain plug would help that scenario.

Kevin