Hi,
As a new member, appreciate if someone may be able to advise.

My car has 58K miles on the clock and is a 96 E230 automatic.

Recently it developed a "fault" where the ABS/Traction control light would come on after about 15 minutes travelling at about 70MPH and would also come on when the cruise control was used.

When this happened, the ABS would not operate, I.E only normal brakes. It could be cleared by stopping, switching off the ignition, and starting again, only to come on again about 15 minutes later when travelling at 70. Funilly enough, if the speed is kept down around 30mph, switching on the cruise control does not cause the light to come on, it works normally.

In town use, the light stayed off(ABS and traction control working correctly), the ABS would "kick-in" with the brake pulsing as the car slowed to a stop, usually from about 20mph down to stop.

First advice from the main MB dealer was a rear sensor was faulty(after suggesting, and checking that the pick-up ring "might" be faulty/broken, and was not!(A new half-shaft required to replace the pick-up ring, at about £450)

After replacement of the sensor(£212 incl labour) and the fault still there, the dealer suggests it may be a faulty ABS pump/control unit(another £200 plus about £150 to fit).

I feel that the dealer is trying to find the fault by replacing all the possible parts, but without really knowing what is at fault. I'm told this can be a common occurrence with sme MB dealers(Glasgow MB). I was under the impression that the on-board computer would register what is at fault, but it seems not.

Anyone out there have a similar problem or can offer any advice please.

Rgds

George(georigg)

 

please check the tire size and inflation pressure!

 

Hi Sleepwalker,

Thanks for reply, but that was one of the first things checked. Pressures are even side to side and 32psi front and 34psi rear.

Tyres are same make front, same make rear, all same size.

Having telephoned MB Customer service today at lunch time, I received a call from the dealer carrying out the sensor change and arrangements are now in place to have the car checked over again at another main dealer.

I'm impressed so far by MB response, but will post again if/when they get to the bottom of the problem.

Rgds to all
Georigg

 

Problem now solved thanks to extremely detailed investigation by MB Aberdeen, Scotland.

After checking out the control unit was OK they used an oscilloscope the check the signal from the rear sensor and found it to have a peak superimposed over the normal signal.

Subsequent investigation showed that the ABS ring on the rear half-shaft had, at some previous time, been welded and the differing material of the weld was the cause of the signal peak.

A new half shaft was fitted and the problem was gone!

Moral of this tale is that not all MB dealerships are uniformly professional in their work. Great plaudits to MB Aberdeen, Scotland but equal and opposite condemnation of the "work" carried out by MB Giffnock, Glasgow in changing a perfectly good rear sensor, then recommending a new control unit, then suggesting a new half-shaft.

Yes, they would have eventually found the fault, but at what cost?

I will be entering a claim for compensation to MB-UK for the un-necessary work done on my car, but I shall not be holding my breath, awaiting the cheque. I will post again and advise all of this outcome.

Rgds

George Riggeling
Georigg

 

I have three mercedes A 190D, A 190E, A 280SE. my favorite car is the 190D. But My problem is the 190E. the ignition is locked and won't turn, steering is locked. Service mgr says to force the key cylinder to turn and go through the "pop out" proceedure as outlined in Chilton's. ANYONE EVER DONE THIS? chilton's also says to force the chrome cap off the front o the cylinder. Reply appreciated!