New member, first post...my car is a 2000 E320, purchased new, with 89000 mi on clock. Just had it in to local small German auto repair, who I think, really took advantage. Their evaluation was MAS needed replacing, even though they did that only 2 yrs ago. I declined, knowing that it is too easy to order online and take 5 minutes to R&R MAS. Tried cleaning old one first, but still had a rough idle @ full operating temp (not at initial start-up.) I called them back this morning when Check Engine Light came on. The guy said if I used a brand name Bosch instead of a MAS from MB, that would be the source of the problem...they had found that the MAS from MB was superior to the branded Bosch sensor.BS to me, that the sensor they placed 2 yrs ago was Bosch with same part # as my new one. That being said, the CEL is still on from start-up, and stays on. I am not sure where to go. Ideas? BTW, this same guy also told me that you never turn brake rotors on European cars, that they are only made to replace. I think this is just more of the same BS as the MAS story.Right again?

 

Where are you located?
MAF insert from germanstar.net is 130 bucks.Same insert as in the whole unit and just as easy to replace.
Rotors are not to be turned but if they are not scored,bit into and are still smooth you can get 1 more use out of them.
www.autohausaz.com for brake parts
cheap and good and free shipping over 50 bucks.
code scanner at
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf
#94169 scanner 39bucks if you have one near by they will match the internet price just take in a print of the page.
read the code post it here.
maf codes usually show the telltale p0170 and p0173
diy for the brake job is on benzworld.org w210 diy section.Easy diy
You are getting near spark plug time you can do those also with a 26buck plug wrench from me to remove the boots and leave the wires on the coils and 12 ngk 7090 plugs for 2.99 each$
that's $65 for plug change if you diy care to be shocked ask what the shop will charge.
lastly did you clean the maf after taking out the insert?and did you use crc brand maf cleaner and not touch anything except to spray the cleaner?
ohlord

 

Ohlord, thanks for the quick reply.I'm in Austin, TX.
I used CRC QD Electronic Cleaner, which I got from AutoZone when I did the same thing on my M3.They didn't have the MAF cleaner at the time, so substitued the other. I sprayed the MAF without removing the insert as didn't have the security torqz(?) that secures it to housing. Sprayed from all sides I could but didn't touch a thing inside the housing. Since it didn't correct the problem, I ordered new one from AutohausAZ.
I'll get Code reader from Harbor Freight tomorrow. It's close to the house, and will be a lot more fun than going back to the original parts changing shop.
Re the plug change..I know it's a big number to change out the plugs. The shop elected to delay. These are original plugs @89000mi.I assume this will show up on code check.
Thanks for the help.
elbro

 

plug change interval is at 100k but anytime is good now.Also at 89000 miles it is past time to change your transmission fluid and filter mb spec fluid ciy on benzworld.org w210 section you don't have a drain on your converter so you wont get it all out so you drain and refill in a half year again.
Wish we would have gotten to it before you ordered the maf i could have told you that the security torx are sold at schucks or kraggens for about 7 bucks the set and a needle nose plier will remove them anyway and never use electronics cleaner on a maf just the crc brand maf cleaner.The germanstar.net bosch insert is the same item and since the body of the maf does not wear out that is all I replace.
ohlord

 

Ohlord is spot on.

Not good practice to turn brake rotors since turning cannot achieve the required finish. Need specialist grinding. Best to just get new rotors. SOME aftermarket ground ones are OK but if you want to be sure of a hassle free (but expensive) change go for MB. Top end European cars are bit like race horses rather than an old Shire horse.

Likewise the MAF but first you need to determine what the codes are. If P0170 / 0173 then 99.5% its the MAF. However it may be another code like Misfire etc.....

I'm still not convinced that the Bosch AFTERMARKET MAF sensor is IDENTICAL with the MB OE. technology wise it may be but I'm not sure whether MB specify special characteristics in order to get you to buy OE. This is standard practice in many industries...e.g. Ink jet cartridges now have chips on them to stop you refilling. You refill but get nothing but trouble and then all of a sudden the thing stops working. the code on the chips is encrypted so its extremely difficult to crack and the OE manufacturers keep the design moving to thwart aftermarket copy attempts.

MB engines are mega sensitive to MAF issues. I recommend biting the bullet and going OE however in many instances an aftermarket sensor may (temporarily?) resolve the issue.

WRT Part No. ID. Please note the Part No. on the MAF Assy Housing is common for a number of specific installations. i.e. Petrol vs Diesel. Therefore the Part No. on the housing does not identify which sensor is fitted.

A genuine (MB) Bosch SENSOR carries the Bosch Pt. No. F OOC 2G2 025 burnt into the casing. there is also another number 962 17 2B which I believe to be a traceability code. (Date, batch etc..)

The above Pt No. is that burnt into my 2000 M112 3.2 V6 MAF. Other engines e.g. V8 may use different sensors.

I believe your German guy may not be taking advantage of you.

Start by retracing your steps and determine what the code was when they accessed the memory and did they reset the ECU. i.e. Wipe the code (2 sec job).
If so what code, if any, has reappeared.

I recommend leaving the trans oil till to at least 100k but if you do change use the MB oil and filter. The TC contains very approx 50% of the fluid so draining the box will not get all the oil out. Refill gives you lets say 50% new. Next change it will be 75% new with diminishing improvement each time it is changed.

When you see the price of the oil you may decide to stick with one change!

Also note that I guess your car will have never utilised its full performance i.e. 150mph over extended periods in +35C ambients. IMHO changing the oil at 100k is somewhat superflouous but if you are fastidious about maintenance then no bad thing so long as you use the MB oil. likewise the plugs. Unless you have a misfire why change? There are 12 and if you use OE they are expensive. MANY aftermarket parts are just not as good as the OE. They will work but some aspect of the design (determined thru MB testing) may not be present and usually lead to reduced life vs OE.

When replacing ensure the plugs are correctly torqued and release agent used otherwise you may discover that next time round you cant get the plugs out without taking the cylinder head thread (alloy) with the plug. Be warned.

Stuart

 

The bosch insert is exactly the same down to the date code in some instances......
use them all the time no issues

Mercedes now suggests trans service on the 722.6 trans at 60k miles wait till 100k and you are inviting trouble with a T.
diy on benzworld.org and even if you have a shop do it twice in a year when you service it, it will be far cheaper then a 3-4k tranny job.Penny wise pound foolish
ohlord

 

Got to the AutoZone this afternoon, did the OBDII, and pulled up with a P0400 EGR system fault, with too little flow on the EGR system. Their explanations 1)blocked passage on EGR2)failed EGR valve,3) EGR solenoid faulty4)failed EGR pressure sensor 5) failed EGR position sensor. Last two are "where applicable."
This was the only fault detected, so the MAF must be OK.
Thanks for your replies on this.
elbro

 

IMHO.

If the burnt in part no is the same I agree that its the same. If its different it may be interchangeable but it is not the same!

"Mercedes" is a little generic. I suggest that this might be more accurate written "MB USA".
Of course PREVENTION is always better than DETECTION.
However I'm sure that you wouldn't propose a blood transfusion just because you are 60 years old.
This (oil change) is basically a judgement call and its important to ensure that oil / filter type and dirt ingress are all managed to a standard = original build otherwise a change can actually make matters worse rather than potentially better.
If there is debris floating about due to component degradation new oil/filter won't save the day.
If no debris is present the oil remains serviceable although environmental and age parameters can influence the decision.
Stuart

 

P0400 is what caused the CEL to illuminate. It may not be the only problem.

A partially blocked EGR may be caused by other factors. Engine wear, incorrect spec fuel etc.

So why did the garage say you needed a new MAF? suggest they didn't even read the codes!

As Ohlord always says...Get the codes read first.

Stuart

 

Is it appropriate to plan on replacing the EGR valve or just try a clean up first? Also, and most important, how big of a job is it to R&R the EGR, as in, where is this thing?
Thanks,
elbro