Ac Poor output
#1
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I need any help I can get I have owned this car for 8 years and I have struggled to get any kind of ac performance out of it. I will tell you this the amount of air coming out of the vents is very poor. THe ac will just flat not cool when sitting at idle if you are on the highway the ac is just ok. I have replaced the compressor the drier the expansion valve one hose. I just dont know where to go, any help please!!!
#7
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Did you have a qualified AUTOMOTIVE A/C guy look at the problem? You said airflow is minimal but is it cold? Buy a A/C service thermometer and stick it in the vents to check temp. Maybe a damper door is stuck which direct air flow over the system core and the various vents. What about vent mode, does it blow hard from the same vents? Can you hear different fan speeds?
Locate the A/C compressor in the engine comparment. Is the center of the pully revolving? This Indicates if the A/C clutch is engaging, if it doesn't cycle on and off every few minutes, the system could be low on freon. It it cycles on and off quickly, every5-10 seconds, probably needs freon.
If it does, it needs to be pumped down, and held for at least an hour to check for leaks.
Tools for a proper A/C repair are expensive, vacume pump, gauges, scale are the minimum required tools, oh and access to freon. Maybe this is an R-12 system? Wonder if it has the correct freon in it.
Diagnosing an A/C system online, is rather tricky! Especially when no troubleshooting details are supplied.
Locate the A/C compressor in the engine comparment. Is the center of the pully revolving? This Indicates if the A/C clutch is engaging, if it doesn't cycle on and off every few minutes, the system could be low on freon. It it cycles on and off quickly, every5-10 seconds, probably needs freon.
If it does, it needs to be pumped down, and held for at least an hour to check for leaks.
Tools for a proper A/C repair are expensive, vacume pump, gauges, scale are the minimum required tools, oh and access to freon. Maybe this is an R-12 system? Wonder if it has the correct freon in it.
Diagnosing an A/C system online, is rather tricky! Especially when no troubleshooting details are supplied.
#8
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ORIGINAL: ot1
Did you have a qualified AUTOMOTIVE A/C guy look at the problem? You said airflow is minimal but is it cold? Buy a A/C service thermometer and stick it in the vents to check temp. Maybe a damper door is stuck which direct air flow over the system core and the various vents. What about vent mode, does it blow hard from the same vents? Can you hear different fan speeds?
Locate the A/C compressor in the engine comparment. Is the center of the pully revolving? This Indicates if the A/C clutch is engaging, if it doesn't cycle on and off every few minutes, the system could be low on freon. It it cycles on and off quickly, every5-10 seconds, probably needs freon.
If it does, it needs to be pumped down, and held for at least an hour to check for leaks.
Tools for a proper A/C repair are expensive, vacume pump, gauges, scale are the minimum required tools, oh and access to freon. Maybe this is an R-12 system? Wonder if it has the correct freon in it.
Diagnosing an A/C system online, is rather tricky! Especially when no troubleshooting details are supplied.
Did you have a qualified AUTOMOTIVE A/C guy look at the problem? You said airflow is minimal but is it cold? Buy a A/C service thermometer and stick it in the vents to check temp. Maybe a damper door is stuck which direct air flow over the system core and the various vents. What about vent mode, does it blow hard from the same vents? Can you hear different fan speeds?
Locate the A/C compressor in the engine comparment. Is the center of the pully revolving? This Indicates if the A/C clutch is engaging, if it doesn't cycle on and off every few minutes, the system could be low on freon. It it cycles on and off quickly, every5-10 seconds, probably needs freon.
If it does, it needs to be pumped down, and held for at least an hour to check for leaks.
Tools for a proper A/C repair are expensive, vacume pump, gauges, scale are the minimum required tools, oh and access to freon. Maybe this is an R-12 system? Wonder if it has the correct freon in it.
Diagnosing an A/C system online, is rather tricky! Especially when no troubleshooting details are supplied.
#9
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I got this kit from Auto Zone. $300 deposit and days to do the job. 100% refund when I took it back.
I had used that leak detect dye and it stopped the system completly. I used some expensive flush which I poured in with a funnel and washed AWAY FROM the pump and into a zip-lock bag to save the stuff. however, I couldn't used it again, it had done its jobs so well that it was like soup. same for the rad inside the cab.
with the dryer and orafice out of the way, the wash was easy. I then CAREFULLY blew the remainder out with air. If I had had nitrogen I would have used that to dry the system. I lubed the pump seperately so as to be sure of quantities. If I had to do it again I would almost close up and then squirt some 134a in and let it out of loose joints to purge the air. then close up and vac. the vacing took a long time cos the water has to boil. my leak was the Hi pressure connector which i pressed in a few times until it seated properly and stopped bubling. I then tied a finger of a rubber glove over it to show if it leaked again. It didn't.
The system was working quite well, but every now and then it will not come on line. I realised that the parking brake was not coming off by vacuum until i revved the engine. when I revved and got better vacuum the A/C came on line. Vac operated shutters and their switches I guess.
I took the dryer apart and it was full of leak detector. never again will I used that muck.
There are air filters behind the glove box in some MBs, this would reduce AIRFLOW I would think.
Good luck Rob
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/walnaze/DashboardDec1506006.jpg)
I had used that leak detect dye and it stopped the system completly. I used some expensive flush which I poured in with a funnel and washed AWAY FROM the pump and into a zip-lock bag to save the stuff. however, I couldn't used it again, it had done its jobs so well that it was like soup. same for the rad inside the cab.
with the dryer and orafice out of the way, the wash was easy. I then CAREFULLY blew the remainder out with air. If I had had nitrogen I would have used that to dry the system. I lubed the pump seperately so as to be sure of quantities. If I had to do it again I would almost close up and then squirt some 134a in and let it out of loose joints to purge the air. then close up and vac. the vacing took a long time cos the water has to boil. my leak was the Hi pressure connector which i pressed in a few times until it seated properly and stopped bubling. I then tied a finger of a rubber glove over it to show if it leaked again. It didn't.
The system was working quite well, but every now and then it will not come on line. I realised that the parking brake was not coming off by vacuum until i revved the engine. when I revved and got better vacuum the A/C came on line. Vac operated shutters and their switches I guess.
I took the dryer apart and it was full of leak detector. never again will I used that muck.
There are air filters behind the glove box in some MBs, this would reduce AIRFLOW I would think.
Good luck Rob
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/walnaze/DashboardDec1506006.jpg)
![](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/walnaze/DashboardDec1506005.jpg)
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