I have a 99 e320 wagon that popped up with a lamp fail when the brakes are depressed. I found the housing had melted some, so I had replaced the lamp with new bulb, and repaired the socket. I did not realize that the brake lamp tab had shorted with the circuit ground, and when I tried it I got a BAS and AntiLock Brake fail warnings as soon as the car is started, and an ESP and lamp malfunction when the brake pedal is depressed. I found a blown 15A fuse in the 11 position for the rear tail housing. I replaced the fuse, did a proper job repairing the tail light, and the error will not go away. After reading some posts I removed and tested the brake pedal switch and found it to be functioning normally. I also read about an ECU reset by leaving the battery disconnected for an extended period of time, (18 hours) all to no avail.

I verified that neither brake light functions, but turn signals, running lights, and back up lights do. I disconnected the ABS module under he hood for a few minutes and had no luck with that either.

I hooked up my OBDII reader and it connects properly and lists no codes.

Any sugestions?

joe

 

I read about and tried to reset the steering sensor, full left etc. It worked untill I pressed the brake pedal, then all of the errors came back. I removed the brake light switch for a closer look. The N.O. contacts close at a physically different position than the N.C. contacts. I tried removing the replacement bulb from the partially melted socket that started it all, and aa retest produces the same results, all errors come on with the brake pedal. At least they do not come on when I start the car anymore.

I restarted the car and pressed the pedal just enough to get the lamp defective message, then let go of it. I did not get the other errors. They only come on if the pedal is pushed far enought to activate both sets of contacts.

 

I isolated one side of the brake switch and shorted the socket to activate the brake lights only without depressing the pedal. I get a lamp defective only. The ESP will turn on and off, and the BAS, ESP, and ABS warnings come up after the brake pedal is depressed for more than 1 second.

I read that the ABS system will prevent the brake lights from coming on, which would explain having no voltage at any of the brake lights at any time.

I pulled up the fuse block section containing the fuse for that area and the wires are good, and have voltage. 12.5V not running, 14.5V when it is. Seems a little high to me.

I am sure the short could not have been good for anything in the circuit. I am thinking the lamp control module which I have read about. Anyone know where that is?

 

your obd2 scanner only pulls generic codes pertaining to the engine module only!! the abs is seperate and you need a more complex /expensive diag. tool . mostly with the W210 body cars 1996-2002 e-class the brake light sw woul fail it is a redundant sw with a n.o / n.c contact that works in opposition to eachother . for the money just replace the brake light sw (its cheep and easy) they would fail 90% of the time . with the new sw. pull the pluunger all the way out till no more cicks then press in 3 clicks and install in the brake pedal bracket d try clearing codes by leaving batt disconnected for 15 min and reconnect . it may take a few drive cycles to clear codes (TURN LIGHT OFF) OR HAVE SOME ONE READ THE CODES FOR YOU IF YOU HAVE C1200 REPLACE BRAKE LIGHT SW. IF STEERING ANGLE SENSOR CODE (NOT INITIALIZED THEN ITS THE CLOCK SPRING.)

 

I had the same problems as Hubidaddy. I replaced the brake pedal switch ($20) still no brake lights and NO cruise control. turn signals and running lights worked fine. Checked every fuse box area under the hood, under the rear passenger seat next to the battery, NOTHING.

The culprit a 15amp fuse in a HIDDEN fuse box that holds 12 - 14 fuses. It is located next to the headlight switch on the side of the dash that is covered by a plastic cover that matches the dash color.

there is a spare 15 amp fuse and a spare 7.5 amp fuse there. I replaced the #2 fuse and Voila !!!