1999 Mercedes CLK 430

Three days ago it started to become hard to get the keyless to work from a distance further than 6 ft away. On the same day it took three tries to get the key to "handshake" with the ECU and unlock the steering column then start the car. Today it stopped completely. No keyless, car will not unlock the ignition to start it. No response at all. The key fob shows an indicator led when pressed, and the IR portion is producing IR waves verified by sticking the remote in front of a digital camera (it can see the IR when the button is pressed). Need to know any ideas of what it could be and where to look. Plenty of electrical experience (MECP certified installer and Electronics engineer) so detailed explanations are good.

From my schematics, I see there is a SAMS module the controls the ignition lock and the keyless. I also see this has a fuse, but I cannot locate the fuse anywhere, any ideas?

Any further ideas would be helpful too

 

By the way I ruled out the EIS since the door locks are affect also. I had seen this thread earlier: https://mercedesforum.com/m_8440/tm.htm

If someone can prove they are related within themselves I'll change my mind, but no one with an EIS problem has ever reported that the door locks did not work, just the ignition so let's stay on the path I have chosen for now.

Right now my goals are finding the following:

1) SAMS (I think this is in the fuse box under the hood, at the back under a screwed down non consumer section, yes?)

2) That stupid 15 amp fuse supposedly powering the SAMS device.

 

Good luck with this...........sure is curious -someone will answer soon I'm sure.......

ANYBODY?

 

I dug until I found it.

For reference in the future, the SAMS is behind the fuseblock on the driver side. It is under the portion of the block you cannot get to because it is screwed down to discourage consumers from going in there. After removing the screws and lifting the plate off you can access the SAMS as well as the relays which are for the wiper assembly and washer pump.

I was going to attach a pic to help people out, but the forum is not accepting attachments and giving an error.

 

sounds more like EIS playin up check feed to EIS switch ITS RED WITH TRACE WHITE IF FEED OK THAN ITS GONNA NEED EIS IT LOOKS AND SOUNDS LIKE U VE LOST THE OUT PUT FROM EIS SWITCH......let me no hw u get on

 

It is about a volt less at both of the large red wires on the EIS. Is that standard loss from back to front or do I possibly have a body connector issue? I know there is one near the foot well somewhere, but do not know it's exact location.

Battery: 12.4

EIS wires: 11.4-ish

 

Show you some of the fun I have had over the last few days.

I've been as deep as I can go into this car and it is just a complete technical marvel.

This is JUST the ignition switch!
































Here's the SAMS unit under the hood.

Tucked nicely away under screws to deter users from finding it.

 

after all the strip down on the EIS SWITCH wat did u find i still say its ur EIS DEFECTIVE ,ur voltage seems ok