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Replacing C240 engine mounts

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  #1  
Old 01-09-2006, 06:26 PM
kevden's Avatar
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Default Replacing C240 engine mounts

Has anybody out there succeeded in changing a 1998 C240 (Auto)'s engine mounts. It's easy to remove bottom bolt, but there is very little space for leverage when it comes to the top bolt. Would you recommend removing the alternator? Any tips from somebody who has done this job would be welcome.
 
  #2  
Old 01-09-2006, 09:20 PM
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Default RE: Replacing C240 engine mounts

I have replaced engine mounts in cars over the years, not within the last 10 years or so. but I do know, in order to do this you need to life the engine off the old mounts, in order to get them off there mounting. so you will need a engine lift or a good very strong hydraulic jack to jackup the engine. I prefer the block and tackle and a good jack as engines are heavy. On some cars the tranny needs to be disconnected. IMHO if you have never done this before and it sounds like you haven't find someone who has or take it to a shop. By the time you finish paying your medical bills, a pro can do it cheaper. I learned a long time ago, a person has limits, just because the bolts are easy to unscrew, does not mean the job is easy. My first time I had a neighbor who was a mechanic help me with the whole procedure. In fact the two or three cars that I had to change mounts in he was always with me.
 
  #3  
Old 01-10-2006, 09:47 PM
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Default RE: Replacing C240 engine mounts

The best method that I have found in to use a stubby
open end wrench and a long pry bar against the wrench
to crack it loose.
 
  #4  
Old 01-16-2006, 03:31 AM
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Default RE: Replacing C240 engine mounts

Job's done! Thanks for the tips. The biggest job was getting the top bolt loose - no space to get any leverage in the engine compartments - had to remove alternator to make space.
 
  #5  
Old 01-16-2006, 03:42 AM
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Default RE: Replacing C240 engine mounts

Thanks. Removing the alternator made enough space available to lever the top bolt loose.
Engine now very smooth - like new! Original symptoms were (auto tranny):
Vibration when stationery and engaging drive (improves after driving a considerable distance).
Runs smoothly when stationery and engaging reverse.

I only changed the right-hand engine mount, the one that suffers the most compression.
 
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