There are only two mechanical "lock cylinders" on the car. One on each of the passenger compartment doors. There is no "mechanical key lock cylinder" on the hatchback. It appears to only operate "electrically."

I will give the diagrams you provided a shot tomorrow morning and will let you know how I make out.


Hopefully, the two new keys that I ordered last week will be in tomorrow. I will talk to dealer about the hatchback locking problem at that time.

Thanks for you help. It is really appreciated.

 

i have the c230 sports coupe.. and i'm sure we have the same type of keys.. look directly at your key(s).. i'm sure it's black.. at the tip is a red panic button.. unlock.. lock buttons.. and at the other end.. is a stainless keyhole.. this stainless part IS ANOTHER KEY.. you can't just pull it though.. you have to push the ridged rectangular button to the side (and no, this does not disassemble the key), and the stainless key should come out.. and just slide it back when you're done.. this key works for the glove compartment and the trunk (you'd have to bend down and look underneath the handle for the key hole)..

 

I also have an 02 CL230 Sport Coupe. My original keys have two push buttons--LOCK & UNLOCK, no panic button and it also contains the separate key for the glovebox and the hatchback as well as the passenger doors. The next time you get the hatchback open you will clearly see the keyhole to the left of the hatchback handle. If it is in the valet position the only time the hatch can be opened is with the key within the remote. Long story short--I agree with INFN8KW3ST. Just turn the key to the opposite position and try the remote again.
Hope this helps.

 

sorry guys.... but there is no "lock cylinder" in the space where the lock would normally reside. The plastic "punchout" sits there in its place undisturbed and attached. Looks like there was never a lock cylinder where one was suppose to be installed.

I expected to hear from the dealer today when the new electronic keys came in.... But they never called. I'll give them a call tomorrow and hopefully go out there to pick them up. Last week the service guy said that I should wait until the new "electronic" keys come in to determine if it is programming problem with the key that came with the car. We shall see.....

I really appreciate the input.

Sleepwalker.... Could you pull up a detailed service record off of the vin? My carfax report said something about a dealer repair at 38,000 miles involving "electrical."

 

i think i cannot because i got no access to FDOK right now.

have you tried pushing the unlock button twice?

please let us know once you got the mystery solved

 

Ok.... I stopped by the dealer to pickup the two new keys that I ordered and asked the service dept. to have a look at the trunk lock. Unfortunately, they were backed up and had a bunch of very unhappy customers in their waiting room. But I was told to give them a call within the next few days and they would try to get a look at it.

That being the case, I finally had some free time earlier today and removed the trunk interior plastic to expose the hatch lock handle assembly. While pressing in on the two wire connector attached to the Hatch lock assembly, I unlocked the car with the electronic key. I then tried the handle and it clicked the release. At this point, I had narrowed the problem down to the Hatch lock handle assembly.

Two screws and I had the unit out of the car and in my hands. It appears that a subpart, a micro switch part # 2038217451, was not being depressed when the handle was pulled. Pressing the microswitch asembly forward engaged the switch. A closer look showed that there was an extremely small amount of play in the plactic assembly that holds the microswitch against a cam attached to the hatch handle. Just enough play "NOT TO TRIGGER THE MICROSWITCH."

I called the dealer and ordered a new eight dollar switch which should be in by Friday. My concern at this point is that neither the micro switch pushrod (the contact seems to engage almost immediately upon pushing the pushrod) or the cam (attached to the handle) look worn.

Sleepwalker.... can you look-up the lock hatch assembly and determine if their is a documented way to adjust the cam that is attached to the handle?

Unless I can get some docs of the HUF assembly, I guess I am on hold until the new switch comes in...

 

The problem is corrected with the inoperable hatch lock. After all is said and done, the problem was an eight dollar micro switch that is attached to the hatch door handle. The complete hatch door handle assembly, which includes a micro-switch, is $ 172.00 from the dealer's parts department. The role of the micro-switch is to close the circuit when the hatch lock is squeezed. Total time to remove the hatch door handle, replace the micro switch, and reinstall is less than 10 minutes.

I appreciate the help that forum provided in attempting to solve the problem.

 

I was wondering as new 2003 C230 owner myself how one can switch back the audio functions from the steering column to the manual front dash control? I was just using CD, Radio, Tape buttons in the front, turning on and off power buttons and only using the - and + for volume control. I reset the odometer after the last fill up and I don't know what happened during the scrolling through the steering column displays, but now, the audio control functions only through the steergin column. Nothing happens when I push the power on or off, or try to change medias- from CD to Radio buttons- I tried pushing the factory reset button for 3 seconds according to the manual, but nothing. Any help would be great here

 

Press the unlock button 3 times...
Then try.
1st try unlocks driver door
2nd try unlocks passenger door
3rd try unlocks the trunk...
Or so I read... I think.