Does Check Engine Light require visit to dealer?
#1
Does Check Engine Light require visit to dealer?
I have a 96 220 C with 65k (original - bought new) miles on it.
The check engine light just came on yesterday. Car is running fine. recent oil change and air filter too within 3000 miles.
The nearest Mercedes dealer is 70 miles away. Is this something that can only be diagnosed at a dealer or can others plug in and get the data?
Can anyone suggest the most common causes for check engine light in 220C's?
Thanks
The check engine light just came on yesterday. Car is running fine. recent oil change and air filter too within 3000 miles.
The nearest Mercedes dealer is 70 miles away. Is this something that can only be diagnosed at a dealer or can others plug in and get the data?
Can anyone suggest the most common causes for check engine light in 220C's?
Thanks
#2
Where are you? In the US? If so, go to an autozone, advancedauto, pep boys, etc. They can plug in an OBDII scanner and pull engine codes, and clear them.
They can't access the CAN, but they should be able to pull engine codes.
There may be an Indy closer than the dealer as well. Somebody specializing in benz would be best, but they'll probably want a few bucks for their time and equipment.
They can't access the CAN, but they should be able to pull engine codes.
There may be an Indy closer than the dealer as well. Somebody specializing in benz would be best, but they'll probably want a few bucks for their time and equipment.
#3
This is good news but what the heck is CAN? There are no indy mechanics in the area that advertise MBZ but there is one that works on BMW so at least he will have metric tools ... lol. I am in Minnesota and that is not the hub of the Mercedes driving world.... obviously. Only dealers are in the Twin Cities area.
Anyway, if I can pull the codes, I can certainly find out what they represent here... then I can worry about how to get the fix. We do have an autozone so that will be my next move.
Thanks
Anyway, if I can pull the codes, I can certainly find out what they represent here... then I can worry about how to get the fix. We do have an autozone so that will be my next move.
Thanks
#4
The CAN is a communication bus tying things like the transmission, SRS, ABS, etc together. OBDII onlt accesses engine codes, and no other engine pararmeters. You need CAN access for that. But, if you threw a code, and car seems to be running fine, it's probably something like EGR flow, Vapor recovery leak, and O2 sensor starting to go south, or something else simple.
Is you gas cap on tight? That can throw a code to light the CEL.
Is you gas cap on tight? That can throw a code to light the CEL.
#6
Thanks to you folks, this is being an education that I greatly appreciate. I borrowed the scanner from Advance Auto Parts. They have been most helpful in the past and they also had the scanner. I got one code. The "P0441 Evap Emission Control System Flow Fault" error.
The guy I was working with said it could be the carbon canister, purge valve or, once again, the infamous gas cap. Also a leak elsewhere in the system.
I can report that when you mentioned it before, I checked the cap and discovered it was not fully tightened. That there was maybe 1/8 or less of a turn remaining to fully close. After checking it for tightness, I removed the cap and when I opened it there was the distinct sound of a rather strong vacuum being filled. I think it was a vacuum as I did not feel a burst of air nor did I smell gas fumes. I got the idea from talking to my parts guy that not closing all the way may have prevented the cap from properly venting. I can also say that before this occurred, I had added 10 gallons of gas and then drove about 85 miles total over the next hour and a half before the check engine light went on. Could an almost but not quite completely shut gas cap do this?
Anyway, I have cancelled the check engine light and am going to wait and see if it happens again. If if doesn't, I have learned a new lesson. Always make sure the gas cap is tightened ALL the way, not just most of the way.
I also changed the cabin air filter today (my first time as a DIY) AND a few days ago my new Pela 6000 Oil Extractor arrived for future oil changes so I am feeling very good about myself and my trusty 220C.
Thanks.. I will report back if things develop further.
The guy I was working with said it could be the carbon canister, purge valve or, once again, the infamous gas cap. Also a leak elsewhere in the system.
I can report that when you mentioned it before, I checked the cap and discovered it was not fully tightened. That there was maybe 1/8 or less of a turn remaining to fully close. After checking it for tightness, I removed the cap and when I opened it there was the distinct sound of a rather strong vacuum being filled. I think it was a vacuum as I did not feel a burst of air nor did I smell gas fumes. I got the idea from talking to my parts guy that not closing all the way may have prevented the cap from properly venting. I can also say that before this occurred, I had added 10 gallons of gas and then drove about 85 miles total over the next hour and a half before the check engine light went on. Could an almost but not quite completely shut gas cap do this?
Anyway, I have cancelled the check engine light and am going to wait and see if it happens again. If if doesn't, I have learned a new lesson. Always make sure the gas cap is tightened ALL the way, not just most of the way.
I also changed the cabin air filter today (my first time as a DIY) AND a few days ago my new Pela 6000 Oil Extractor arrived for future oil changes so I am feeling very good about myself and my trusty 220C.
Thanks.. I will report back if things develop further.
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