I have a 2006 C230 with about 55,000 miles. Lately my car would not go more then 40 miles an hour and if i keep gassing it the rpm can go up to 4 or 5. What i would do is shut off the car and remove the key. Then it will work again without any issues. I notice when i reverse out it will make a clunk sound sometimes. This always doesn't happen but it happened and with me removing the key and starting it again didn't work. I sit in traffic a lot so my car stop and goes a lot.

The check engine light pop up for the first time for this issue. I was wondering if anyone have a idea what is going on? I know if it's a blown transmission it's going to be very expensive.

I also swapped my transmission oil a few weeks ago and prior to this it was already doing this. I didn't have the transmission filter swap.

Any advice would greatly be appreciated.

 

Air flow mass meter MAF sensor.

Notes from a supplier:

The Air flow meter (basically) Measures the amount of air going into the inlet manifold, and then sends signals to the other components on the vehicle to ensure the engine runs correctly.

Common symptoms of a faulty Air flow meter (AFM) are:

Poor idling

Cutting out when the engine speed drops (approaching bends, roundabouts etc)

Loss of Power

Excessive Black Smoke

The first thing to check is the electrical connection - it may 'look' good but in fact it could be un-seated, loose, damp, corroded.

 

I would think a fault with the Mass airflow sensor would be unlikely. You say the engine is revving, correct? What fault code did you get??

 

The error code i got was:

P0717 Tubine/input shaft speed sensor a circuit no signal.

So my car can't 25 miles an hour and the rpm goes really high. When I shift it from park to drive it has a big clunk sound. I also cant change it from S to C on gear.

I did a little research with that error code and it seems that i might need a new valve body or control unit?

Does this seem right? Anyone know a good mechanic in the Los Angeles/Pasadena area?

 

you need a conductor plate/ electrical plate !! see the code all the time, dealer usually costs about 600 to 800 bucks to fix. if you know of a good independant Benz shop go there.

 

thanks for the info. i contacted the local dealer and they said if its plate its 800. if its the valve body its 1300.

is this a quick job or do a need a rental for a long time?

 

few hours normally! at most ....depends on hhow busy the tech is working on your car. the job itself only takes 2 hours or so.

 

Thanks alot for sharing your knowledge on this issue! I'll have it tow tomorrow to the dealer and have them take a look at it.

 

Update:

So i took it to a Mercedes independent shop and after spending an hour on it they can't fix the issue. I wasn't charge for the diagnostic.

He thought it was it was a plate sensor in the transmission however it wasn't that issue. He said i had a .9 transmission so most parts are married to the transmission. Also how it has to get programmed again and only Mercedes dealers have this tool?


So i used the free road side towing from Mercedes and just have to wait til Monday to find out the damage and cost of it.

 

yes if you have a 7 speed transmission, it still could be the conductor plate but the conductor plate has the control unit incorporated into it unlike the older 5 speed trans. so much more $$$ for the part. and if you have a 7 speed trans there is no trans fill tube. youll need benz to do it. and yes the new conductor plate will need to be programmed by benz.